H3 Factory Flares

Anyone have any idea how small of a hole needs to be drilled to install the factory flares(like the ones used on the CE or the south african hummers)?

i think it is about 6-8mm

or as we say here bout just enough, in fractions of an inch. Mostly you use the existing holes that the buttons snap in. The holes I drilled were about 3/16 or less and I ran SS screws in the places that needed them.
Hi Skippy!
See if there is anything in here that will answer questions you have.
http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?376-Flares-E-amp-G-Hunner-Mod
I have E&G but they look like the OEM, I don't know if the OEM were Bushwhackers or these.

I'm guessing that the OEM and aftermarket are slightly different… The front OEM driver/passenger flare have SIX holes each that need to be drilled into the factory fender for proper fitment.

Hunner said:

or as we say here bout just enough, in fractions of an inch. Mostly you use the existing holes that they buttons snap in. The holes I drilled were about 3/16 or less and I ran SS screws in the places that needed them.
Hi Skippy!
See if there is anything in here that will answer questions you have.
http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?376-Flares-E-amp-G-Hunner-Mod
I have E&G but they look like the OEM, I don't know if the OEM were Bushwhackers or these.

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The OEM ones are quite a bit different then the E&G Classics. They are closer to the Bushwackers but they are still different. The nice thing about the OEM flares, is they don't hang down in the rear like the E&G Classic (were you had to trim for clearance). They mount flush with the bottom of the existing fender.

Jason911 said:

I'm guessing that the OEM and aftermarket are slightly different… The front OEM driver/passenger flare have SIX holes each that need to be drilled into the factory fender for proper fitment.

Click to expand...

I will measure the holes in my new 1/4 panels (required for the OEM flares) and let you know.

Thanks! I had a suspicion that new panels were required for the flares, but I have hope that they could just be drilled….

I mostly trimmed that lip underneath where mud builds up and tires rub. Anybody got some close ups of those OEM at the rear. I would like to see how they are different, just to know. Mine only come down in the back as far as the existing fender does, but they have a lot of lip down at the bottom. It's the rear mud flaps that drag so I don't use those.

Hunner said:

I mostly trimmed that lip underneath where mud builds up and tires rub. Anybody got some close ups of those OEM at the rear. I would like to see how they are different, just to know. Mine only come down in the back as far as the existing fender does, but they have a lot of lip down at the bottom. It's the rear mud flaps that drag so I don't use those.

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This is a poor picture but its all I have

you actually don't have to drill holes, like my CE edition has.
On my fiance's rig, we installed the 1/4" 3M tape on the backside of the rubber piece that goes against the paint. We also removed the plastic pieces that would go into the holes....they just snap out of the bracket. We added 3M tape there as well.
The fender flares hold on perfectly fine and you can't tell the difference between the two. Except that Larry's fender flares are much more sturdier than mine, and it's held on with tape and push pins in the fender lip.

Since it came up about if they are similiar, just for info for the future here is a shot of the E&G for comparison. These are RR and the ones designed for mud flaps which I removed.



I did have to drill small holes on the one for the door to get it tight. Is that the part you are asking about on the OEM?

Hunner said:

I did have to drill small holes on the one for the door to get it tight. Is that the part you are asking about on the OEM?

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The OEM ones have "push pins" that actual install into the side of the actual fender. So they are a bit more permanite then the E&G classics unless you don't use the pins (like 2007HummerH2 said) or you don't mind holes :giggle:. I don't have a good pictures of the pins but you can kinda see them.

Sounds interesting. My only question is how strong the adhesive of the 3m tape is going to be when its the middle of February, and/or with snow/ice frozen to it? I don't have a garage to park in(thanks ex!) - my poor H3 resides outside 24/7.

2007HummerH2 said:

you actually don't have to drill holes, like my CE edition has.
On my fiance's rig, we installed the 1/4" 3M tape on the backside of the rubber piece that goes against the paint. We also removed the plastic pieces that would go into the holes....they just snap out of the bracket. We added 3M tape there as well.
The fender flares hold on perfectly fine and you can't tell the difference between the two. Except that Larry's fender flares are much more sturdier than mine, and it's held on with tape and push pins in the fender lip.

Click to expand...

08SolarFlareH3 said:

The OEM ones have "push pins" that actual install into the side of the actual fender. So they are a bit more permanite then the E&G classics unless you don't use the pins (like 2007HummerH2 said) or you don't mind holes :giggle:. I don't have a good pictures of the pins but you can kinda see them.

Click to expand...

Those would be the pins…. any idea what size hole to drill? Problem is - its a one shot deal. No screw ups allowed….

Guess it's late, what is that large plastic piece to the right the mud flap? I'm used to seeing them ON the vehicle. If that is what you are talking about the E&G use two 1/4 bolts to existing threaded nut inserts and one screw into the flare. If your talking about that white plastic thingy that will probably be a one time insert, until it breaks. It doesn't get much better than SS screws for permanent. The E&G use the existing screw holes in the door holding the trim and push pins already in existing holes except that some of them break when removing them and you have to replace them. A size longer works better because you have more layers now.
I guess I just can't seem to explain to get my point across, from reading some of the responses how these mount. Whatever, I just wanted to find out the difference, if any. I guess I'm missing how the OEM are any more permanent? I was not trying to rate one over the other just wanted to know more about them and share the info on the forum. If you paid for OEM, looks like you would have gotten some instructions on the hole size. Looks fairly straight forward, a hole that the fastener fits snug in by measuring. zzzzzzzzzzzzzz

This is the piece on the back edge of the door like the pic you posted above in post #12 but does not go with the flap. The two large holes go over some bolts in the door.

This is the tail end of the rear flare that engages with the flap on mine

but they drag alot, offroad when mounted on the H3. They seem tough but I don't like the scraping and took them off. I guess the more permanent OEM would take this repeated kind of abuse better because it has the one pin in there?? If it just uses a push pin into the flare instead of into the sheet metal, time will tell.

Where would someone be able to buy the OEM flairs? All I can find is E&G or Bushwacker. If anyone knows, then post a link to the store. What is the GM Part # ? Can they be bought as a set, or only as individual pieces?
Thanks...

SGT-Wright said:

Where would someone be able to buy the OEM flairs? All I can find is E&G or Bushwacker. If anyone knows, then post a link to the store. What is the GM Part # ? Can they be bought as a set, or only as individual pieces?
Thanks...

Click to expand...

They can be purchased from any GM dealer (local or online parts dealer). They are only available as individual pieces.

Left Front - 15822884
Right Front - 15822885
Left Rear Front Piece - 15822886
Left Rear Middle Piece - 15822887
Left Rear Rear Piece - 15822888
Right Rear Front Piece - 15822889
Right Rear Middle Piece - 15822890
Right Rear Rear Piece - 15822891

Hunner said:

Guess it's late, what is that large plastic piece to the right the mud flap? I'm used to seeing them ON the vehicle. If that is what you are talking about the E&G use two 1/4 bolts to existing threaded nut inserts and one screw into the flare. If your talking about that white plastic thingy that will probably be a one time insert, until it breaks. It doesn't get much better than SS screws for permanent. The E&G use the existing screw holes in the door holding the trim and push pins already in existing holes except that some of them break when removing them and you have to replace them. A size longer works better because you have more layers now.
I guess I just can't seem to explain to get my point across, from reading some of the responses how these mount. Whatever, I just wanted to find out the difference, if any. I guess I'm missing how the OEM are any more permanent? I was not trying to rate one over the other just wanted to know more about them and share the info on the forum. If you paid for OEM, looks like you would have gotten some instructions on the hole size. Looks fairly straight forward, a hole that the fastener fits snug in by measuring. zzzzzzzzzzzzzz

This is the piece on the back edge of the door like the pic you posted above in post #12 but does not go with the flap. The two large holes go over some bolts in the door.

This is the tail end of the rear flare that engages with the flap on mine

but they drag alot, offroad when mounted on the H3. They seem tough but I don't like the scraping and took them off. I guess the more permanent OEM would take this repeated kind of abuse better because it has the one pin in there?? If it just uses a push pin into the flare instead of into the sheet metal, time will tell.

Click to expand...

I will take pictures tonight. The ones I posted were ones I had in my photobucket account. You have to drill holes in the actual factory fender in the vertical part of the fender, visible from the side (not the under side). You have to do this for the front and all 3 pieces in the rear.

That sounds sort of scary. I would like to see what that looks like, not sure I follow that. The E&G only attach to the under side lip and liner. Anyway good thread so peeps can decide. Being able to buy individual pieces is good. There was a big fuss over not being able to do that for a reasonable price with the E&G but where I got mine was not that way.
I wonder how long those OEM will be available thru GM, something to consider for both kinds I guess.
I worried about that and bought an extra full set and some extra pieces that were sold together thru Ridgedemon.com. to put in my collection of dinosaur parts.

08SolarFlareH3 said:

They can be purchased from any GM dealer (local or online parts dealer). They are only available as individual pieces.

Left Front - 15822884
Right Front - 15822885
Left Rear Front Piece - 15822886
Left Rear Middle Piece - 15822887
Left Rear Rear Piece - 15822888
Right Rear Front Piece - 15822889
Right Rear Middle Piece - 15822890
Right Rear Rear Piece - 15822891

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It looks like each one of these pieces costs over $100. Probably looking at close to $1000 for all pieces. I bet the EG Classics are cheaper.

HUMMERADDICT said:

It looks like each one of these pieces costs over $100. Probably looking at close to $1000 for all pieces. I bet the EG Classics are cheaper.

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Might want to recheck your pricing. Unless price has went up in substantially in 6 months. I paid way less then that, under half that.

08SolarFlareH3 said:

Might want to recheck your pricing. Unless price has went up in substantially in 6 months. I paid way less then that, under half that.

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Maybe I read it wrong. I typed in a couple of those part #'s on Gmpartshouse and they looked like they cost $140 each.

HUMMERADDICT said:

Maybe I read it wrong. I typed in a couple of those part #'s on Gmpartshouse and they looked like they cost $140 each.

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Just check GM Parts House and it adds up to $518.96


Front - $140.40ea
Rear Front Piece - $23.78ea
Rear Middle Piece - $47.65ea
Rear Rear Piece - $47.65ea