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View Full Version : BOOM! Long awaited driveshaft adapters...



4speedfunk
07-08-2015, 01:21 PM
Coming soon...
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/08/3bdcaf584fd3d3457664d396dd3ecda7.jpg

H3HummerLineX
07-08-2015, 01:50 PM
For??


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4speedfunk
07-08-2015, 01:54 PM
H3 front driveshaft....output flange to 1310 cv. adapter. Bolt this on and run a real driveshaft...get that rubber boot crap out from under your Hummer.

H3slate
07-08-2015, 02:08 PM
Yes!!! I have my new driveshaft, can't wait for this adapter.

derian06
07-08-2015, 02:10 PM
H3 front driveshaft....output flange to 1310 cv. adapter. Bolt this on and run a real driveshaft...get that rubber boot crap out from under your Hummer.

I have no idea how drive shafts work, but this basically gets rid of the rubber boot and allows us to use regular sized drive shafts? And do you sell driveshafts for post Rancho/SOA?

adventr
07-08-2015, 02:38 PM
I like it. Is there already a source for pre-made drivelines that will work? Or would this be something that we would just have a local driveline shop build for us?

H3slate
07-08-2015, 02:48 PM
I had mine built by a driveline shop recommended by 4 speed. It is a similar drive line used on jeeps, they just needed the length to make it fit.

H3HummerLineX
07-08-2015, 02:53 PM
Are you telling me that I can get rid of the factory shafts. No more tearing them up. I can crank it a little higher as well???


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H3HummerLineX
07-08-2015, 02:55 PM
And the other end is a spline and u joint?


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H3slate
07-08-2015, 03:02 PM
Here is a comparison of the stock drive line with the new one.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k301/knappe18/20150708_115820.jpg

adventr
07-08-2015, 03:11 PM
Are you telling me that I can get rid of the factory shafts. No more tearing them up. I can crank it a little higher as well???


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You're thinking of the CV shafts (from differential to each wheel).

This part allows for replacement of the driveline that runs from transfer case to front differential.

06 H3
07-08-2015, 03:24 PM
I think I was the first one to run this adapter and let me tell you it rocks! Heres why...The driveshafts that worked for an H3 without an adapter was a big clunky thing...It was for an old chevy truck. I ran it back with the rancho and the SAS. If not kept greased often it would burn up (as with any shaft but this one would burn up quicker then usual!) Even when properly greased up and all is well its still a vibration prone driveshaft IMO. It was a made for a truck in the 70s with the locking hubs so it never spun at speed and wasnt designed to. So this adapter allows you to run a 1310 driveshaft and I have had it up to 90mph with 5.13s so its spinning faster then it would with 4.56s and it was vibration free. The reason is that the driveshaft that this adapts to is from a jeep and even though they are 2wd on the street they dont have locking hubs so they still spin and they can handle spinning at high speeds.

Maybe CJ remembers when I installed it but it was probably close to 9 months ago and this still has less vibration then a brand new one of the old setup I used to run.

06 H3
07-08-2015, 03:26 PM
tatton driveline is what I use. Ebay guy who has the best deals around and quality shafts, I am running his shafts front and rear with CJs front adapter and then my old clunky shaft as a trail spare and I plan to order a rear tatton trail spare shaft.

H3HummerLineX
07-08-2015, 04:12 PM
Ok that makes more since now.

And I thought it was a replacement for the CV half shafts. I was wondering how they would have mounted from the photos.


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4speedfunk
07-08-2015, 05:00 PM
MORE INFO...
These adapters will work on all H3 & H3T transfer cases (base or adv. pak). Installation is a breeze...simply un-bolt your stock driveshaft...bolt the adapter to the front output flange of the t-case...and bolt-on a custom shaft of your choice. They are 1/2" thick steel, and come with mounting bolts. I just got a batch of these done today...sort of testing the market at this point. The price is $99.00 shipped via USPS (while supplies last).

Both 06H3 and myself got our shafts from Tatton Driveline in Utah but, you can get a shaft made by any driveline shop. You need to specify a 1310-series CV, (which is a very common joint used on Jeeps, Fords, and Dodges). It has a 2" center pin and 3.5" bolt circle. You can also get standard (single u-joint) flanges in this same bolt pattern but, I would recommend the CV for the Hummer due to it being full-time 4WD. When you measure for your new driveshaft, make sure to account for the 1/2" thickness of the adapter. And obviously you'll need a slip-shaft at the front end, so you can get it installed. I believe the installed length is around 30" but measure to be sure.

This is a nice upgrade for ANY H3, although Rancho-lifted rigs might reap even more benefits. The Rancho kit puts extra angle on the front driveshaft, and often times the stock rubber-boot on the CV will rip and destroy the joint. This same shaft can be also be used on a Dana 44 should you decide to go solid axle someday! The 1310-series CV uses (2) back-to-back rigid u-joints (no boot). It has grease fittings. It can be rebuilt at home from parts bought at any AutoZone or NAPA.

If you want one...hit me up with your complete shipping address and direct email. I will send you a PayPal link for fast, easy, secure payment.

Bigunit
07-08-2015, 05:51 PM
CJ, hope you got me down for one. Thanks.

Panzer07
07-08-2015, 06:49 PM
Well looks like I'm in for one.


Torres

Highatop
07-12-2015, 11:24 AM
I just replaced that Cv joint due to the Rancho lift and it broke on the trail. I for sure want one like we talked about in earlier post and emails. Hold one for me. More info and parts needed to complete this would be useful for me, due to where live.

Thanks for the upgrades and parts

4speedfunk
07-12-2015, 11:53 AM
Colorado?...shouldn't be a problem. Tattons Driveline is right next door in Utah, and that guy can get you hooked up. You might want to verify this but, I think the stock H3 shaft is 30.5". The adapter takes up a half-inch, so order a "Hack & Tap 1310" shaft 30" long...and you should be golden.

BTW...this shaft has about 3" to 4" of stroke on the slip collar, so it has a lot of fluff built into it. Thats why it can be re-used on the solid axle as well.

Bigunit
07-22-2015, 10:01 PM
CJ, is this the right shaft from Tatton's Ebay store?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330583612965 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/330583612965)

Can anyone confirm that 30" is the right length to order?

06 H3
07-22-2015, 10:40 PM
I can check tonight...I'll be off work in a few hours.

I'll measure the distance from the t case to yoke and the width of the adapter.

You want 1310 u joint for a stock h3. My driveshaft might be a tad longer due to my added height but he builds them with a ton of slip into it so an inch or longer or shorter won't matter

4speedfunk
07-22-2015, 11:11 PM
30" installed length...1310 hack & tap....2" center pin...3,5" bolt circle. It will have 3 to 4 inches of slip.

jbrand11
07-23-2015, 02:20 AM
30" installed length...1310 hack & tap....2" center pin...3,5" bolt circle. It will have 3 to 4 inches of slip.


Put me down for one. Installing Rancho with SOA rear next week your timing is PERFECT!!!

cowboy_tech
07-23-2015, 12:47 PM
I'm interested.

jbrand11
07-24-2015, 07:10 PM
30" installed length...1310 hack & tap....2" center pin...3,5" bolt circle. It will have 3 to 4 inches of slip.


I spoke with Curtis from Tatton Axles today and he said the bolt circle should be 2.5" unless you are measuring diagonally but that if it is really a 3.5" bolt circle he would custom one. Can anyone shed some light on this as I am at work away from my Hummer for the next week and would like to get the axle ordered. Thanks in advance.

4speedfunk
07-24-2015, 08:14 PM
Bolt circle is absolute. 3.5"....period. That's what I'm running. That's what 06H3 is running. That's what the adapter is made for. It's not rocket science. Nothing custom required.

jbrand11
07-24-2015, 08:22 PM
Bolt circle is absolute. 3.5"....period. That's what I'm running. That's what 06H3 is running. That's what the adapter is made for. It's not rocket science. Nothing custom required.

Thanks for the quick reply, I meant drive shaft, so I guess the E-Bay link will work for 2008 alpha?

Sorry for my confusion....driveshafts ordered

mantracker
09-07-2015, 10:40 PM
I'll take one, if you still have them. Pm sent.

RamRod
09-21-2015, 09:06 PM
Super stoked to have one of these on the way now that I have had a second CV joint go in less than a a year!

Did we settle on 30" is the drive shaft length for a Rancho lifted rig running this setup?


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Panzer07
09-21-2015, 09:17 PM
Well receive my driveshaft today and mounted the adapter idk if I should paint it since it is already rusting.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/21/87dc70e7b00d472cfaf78d4dbd6bb44a.jpg


Torres

5gn-h3t
09-21-2015, 11:05 PM
idk if I should paint it since it is already rusting.

Umm, it goes UNDER the truck. :)

4speedfunk
09-22-2015, 07:40 AM
Yes. Paint with your favorite rattle can. Put a thin layer of grease on each side before you install it. This will prevent it from fusing itself to the flanges, and allow you to remove it much easier in the future.

4speedfunk
09-22-2015, 08:07 AM
This is a variable-length shaft. This type of shaft is made for a live front axle (solid axle). Since a live axle moves up & down, this shaft has a slip-collar on the front end, and it can move in or out about 3"-4" to compensate for droop & compression of the front suspension....so there is a lot of built-in adjustment. Additionally, the slip portion of the shaft can be pulled-off and replaced with longer or shorter versions if more adjustment is needed. This makes it very easy to lengthen or shorten should you decide to go solid axle in the future.

On a stock (or Rancho lifted) H3...the front IFS is stationary and does not move up or down (unless your bushings are shot :roll:). The only reason you need the slip collar is to get the shaft installed. Once installed, it remains pretty much the same length as you are driving around. Without the slip collar...it would be impossible to get it installed between the t-case and the axle yoke. So even though, the front axle is bolted rigid to the frame...you still need the slip collar to collapse the length, and get the shaft bolted in place.

In contrary...the stock shaft uses a six-ball CV joint, and CV joints are designed to have a similar capability. This is called "plunge". "Plunge" on a CV is basically the same thing as "slip" on this shaft....they perform the same duty. The stock shaft only has about 1.5" of plunge...just enough to get it installed. Stock H3's run a 30.5" driveshaft. The THORparts adapter is 1/2" thick so essentially you need to specify a 30" installed length. Tatton's uses a chart that pre-determines the cut length, so all you need to do is tell them your desired installed length. You may wish to measure yours but, don't overthink it. I know for a fact that all H3's with an IFS will need a 30" installed length. The shaft will be made for this length, and it will collapse to approx. 28" and expand to approx. 32". That is a huge range of adjustment, and an IFS axle will never see more than .125" at any given time. Always measure from the mounting surface at the t-case (or the adapter plate), to the centerline of the u-joint cup at the front axle.

rascole
09-22-2015, 10:59 AM
The Rancho kit drops the diff 4" correct? Then how much longer should the drive shaft be?

4speedfunk
09-22-2015, 11:02 AM
Fraction of an inch.

rascole
09-22-2015, 11:05 AM
Fraction of an inch.
SMH, story of my life.
Sign me up, I will take one. I plan on doing the Ranch next year after Uncle Sam gives me my money back.

06 H3
09-22-2015, 12:12 PM
An update on the driveshaft as well. It's badass....no vibrations. The old one was much more prone to vibration and this new setup is way better. It's also nice to have a jeep driveshaft. You can get parts for it easier or if you totally pretzel it you could find one much easier but it's much beefier then oem so I doubt you will pretzel it, the AAM-7 will probably blow up before you get to that breaking point of the driveshaft :)

MTUH3
09-22-2015, 12:20 PM
I like this, great work

rascole
09-22-2015, 12:47 PM
Well receive my driveshaft today and mounted the adapter idk if I should paint it since it is already rusting.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/21/87dc70e7b00d472cfaf78d4dbd6bb44a.jpg


Torres
Before I jump in and buy the shaft, is this the one from the other post on eBay? any issues?

4speedfunk
09-22-2015, 01:34 PM
I've sold many adapters, and I think most customers are getting their shafts from Tatton Driveline....I've not heard any bad reports whatsoever. One thing I can say is that Tatton seems to make great shafts, and his prices are very fair. They are spun-balanced and that is very important on the H3 because they are full-time 4WD. On other vehicles that have a 2WD mode...the front shaft can be shut-off, so highway vibes are not as critical. But on the H3...it spins all the time. That includes 75mph interstate travel where the shaft is spinning at ridiculously high rpms.

SOME HISTORY ON THE DRIVESHAFT ISSUE:
I made a dozen or so THORparts shafts a couple years ago. Squeaky, Geno, and myself (along with a few others) ran these for a year or two. These shafts used an aftermarket casting that mated a Spicer 3R cardan joint to the H3's t-case (no adapter needed). To be completely honest...I had so many complaints that it scared me away from the driveshaft business entirely. The 3R joints constantly burned up and the vibrations were never truly gone. The 3R joint is a big, clunky, mechanism from the 70s...and something else was clearly needed. That's when I started working with the 1310 CV. Its smoother and smaller than the 3R. It also has less spring tension inside the cardan. The only issue is...it doesn't bolt up to the H3 without the adapter. If you have a machine shop...you don't technically need the adapter. You can remove the output flange from your t-case...chuck it in a lathe...and make the necessary mods to bolt the 1310 (Hack & Tap) CV directly to it. You will need to turn the center pin down to fit the 1310 flange, and also re-drill the four mounting holes, (I believe Recon has something like this). Once you do this, it is permanently cut to fit the 1310. The nice thing about the adapter is you don't need to disassemble the t-case, go to a machine shop, or make permanent mods. If you ever want to return to a stock driveshaft, simply loose the adapter and bolt it back in.

I am not affiliated with Tatton but, I have spoke to CJ (the owner) one time on the phone about a year ago. By now he's probably wandering...Why are all these Hummer guys suddenly buying 30" Hack & Tap shafts? -Haha. THORparts and Tatton Driveline have a perfect symbiotic relationship: I make adapters. He makes shafts. He doesn't mess with adapters. I don't mess with shafts. Now all you guys can finally get a real shaft for a Jeep price. Its a win-win-win for all parties involved!

BTW...gfbH3T still runs the THORparts 3R shaft on Big Red, and his seems to be very smooth. I ran several of them, and wasn't impressed...and I don't know enough about driveshafts to understand why his works so well. So I'm not poo-poo'ing the 3R unit entirely, I just think the 1310 with the adapter is a better rig.

rascole
09-22-2015, 03:06 PM
Thanks for the input and all the effort you put into this. I look forward to getting mine done.

mantracker
09-22-2015, 05:07 PM
I just spoke to Curtis. Got my shaft ordered, and had a laugh about all these Hummer guys ordering shafts. He seems very likable.

Panzer07
09-22-2015, 05:19 PM
Yes. Paint with your favorite rattle can. Put a thin layer of grease on each side before you install it. This will prevent it from fusing itself to the flanges, and allow you to remove it much easier in the future.

Thank you that's why wants to painted not so much for cosmetics, but since it would be metal on metal. Anyways Thanks CJ will make sure to add the grease as well.


Torres

rascole
09-22-2015, 05:28 PM
I just spoke to Curtis. Got my shaft ordered, and had a laugh about all these Hummer guys ordering shafts. He seems very likable.
Did you just order over the phone or through his eBay page?

ABNTROOP
09-22-2015, 07:36 PM
Just blew my second shaft this year. I'll ta,e one of those adapters please

mantracker
09-22-2015, 08:50 PM
Did you just order over the phone or through his eBay page?

I snagged the phone number off the shaft pictured in this thread, and placed the order over thephone.

ABNTROOP
09-22-2015, 08:53 PM
I just ordered off that eBay link and specified in the note 30" and that I was another H3 guy. He was quick to shoot a quick reply with a thank you and confirming the link.

gfbh3t
09-22-2015, 09:20 PM
Save me an adaptor. 13 hrs drive time and greased lost another u joint felt vibration at about the 11th hr. Also lost front crank pulley seal. Have a nice undercoat now

Panzer07
09-22-2015, 09:48 PM
I just ordered off that eBay link and specified in the note 30" and that I was another H3 guy. He was quick to shoot a quick reply with a thank you and confirming the link.

Would give him a call just to be sure he got the order, eBay messed up with mine and it didn't notify him, that's why I took him almost a month to deliver mine...not really his fault but I'd just give him a call. It only took a week from when I called him to inquire about my shaft.


Torres

ABNTROOP
09-22-2015, 09:50 PM
No, after ordering within a couple minutes I got a direct email from him: "hi. thanks for the order and the 30" length. thanks curtis.
1-801-685-0056 (tel:1-801-685-0056)"

4speedfunk
09-23-2015, 06:57 AM
Gfbh3t....I don't think the issue is the u-joints. I think it's the center pin. Once that thing goes...it allows the cv to become eccentric, and that causes the vibe. Mine did the same thing and when I took it apart, the u-joints were still in brand new condition...and the center pin was smoked. I don't know why this happens to the 3R joint. Now that I'm using the 1310 cv....I don't care about finding the cause. The 1310 is superior in every way.
I'll put an adapter with the rest of your parts...let me know when you'll be in my neighborhood. If you need it sooner let me know and I will mail it to you.

Hunner
09-23-2015, 10:35 PM
Guess I should check on the forum more often!!

My email is plastered all over this site so send me an email 1secondwind@comcast.net

Glad to see you are still re-inventing the H3.

I saw you were going back to the Badlands but a little too short notice for me.
I would have driven up to offroad with you again and stay in that haunted hotel but I had just had surgery and it's a long damn way from Arkansas.

rascole
09-24-2015, 08:32 AM
Just placed the order for the shaft.

RamRod
09-24-2015, 08:48 PM
Lol me too... he is going to wonder what the hell happened to all of these Hummers! Haha

rascole
09-24-2015, 10:26 PM
Maybe he'll want to be a sponsor now? lol

ABNTROOP
09-26-2015, 09:43 PM
Got my adapter today! Thanks bud!

ABNTROOP
10-01-2015, 08:23 PM
http://youtu.be/XuQkX-a5r7g

rascole
10-01-2015, 08:27 PM
I get my drive shaft from him next week.

4speedfunk
10-02-2015, 07:55 AM
Looks good ABN! Now that you have a "serviceable" driveshaft....don't forget to service it! As Hummer owners, we sometimes get lulled into thinking we are maintenance-free but, this shaft is old-school and does require periodic attention.
In addition to the two zirks you pointed out...there are three more at the other end....one on each u-joint and one for the center pivot pin of the cardan. A squirt at every oil change will keep it happy for many years. When cardan CV's fail....95% of the time, it's due to lack of lube.
Wheel on!

ABNTROOP
10-02-2015, 09:49 AM
Thank you for the good info. Ive never dealt with zerk fittings and regreasing stuff that way before. Sounds like I should go buy a grease gun. :)

4speedfunk
10-02-2015, 09:52 AM
Yes. Get a good one (cheap ones just make a mess). Use a good waterproof grease like Amsoil or Kendall Blue.

ABNTROOP
10-02-2015, 09:54 AM
Ok, I'll poke my nose around and do some homework to try and find a good one. Do you all use marine grade grease? Or is it just regular automotive?

4speedfunk
10-02-2015, 09:57 AM
Plain ole automotive....NAPA, AutoZone, Oreily, Pepboyz, etc. Prolly get it online thru Amazon, RockAuto, or Jegs too.

rascole
10-02-2015, 11:34 AM
I would recommend getting the locking tip for your grease gun. I love mine. Makes it so much cleaner when laying on your back. Link (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H7LPKKU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00)

RamRod
10-02-2015, 03:59 PM
Wowzers! 10,000 PSI! That's a trick fitting forsure


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rascole
10-05-2015, 08:56 PM
Got my drive shaft in today. With any luck I will install it this weekend. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/05/fdac6d37d00035b8ed5b89d509569e66.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/05/6ae27e9375d07e71145dceb8c8849a68.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/05/a89b5d0feecd8a8b64f6daf0af448d3b.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/05/9edffb291d535ae3804e114504887ba3.jpg

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H3nightrod
10-05-2015, 10:21 PM
That looks amazing!!!!

4speedfunk
10-06-2015, 07:36 AM
Yeah but after a day at the Badlands...it will look all nasty and beautiful again.

ABNTROOP
10-06-2015, 11:29 AM
Anybody with these installed noticing a vibration? I'm noticing a vibration around 2k rpm. Not awful, just slight. And at 70 mph on the freeway if I let off the gas I can feel a vibration and a slight grinding sound. I've crawled up under there several times over the last couple days and there's nothing loose, no scrape marks, no metal shavings. A little bit of grease spew, but minor. This shaft looked well lubed up so I didn't add any lube. CGAlpha PM'd me about the same thing but his is around 4K rpm

rascole
10-06-2015, 12:30 PM
I plan on installing in this weekend. Does your shaft have counter weights from balancing? May look into having it re-balanced just because.

cgalpha08
10-06-2015, 12:33 PM
Yea ill throw in some more "descripters" haha when I get to around 3500 to 4k, (above that i cant hear what it sounds like because the engine makes too much noise). But its has a heavy/shaky/grindy feel and sound coming from the front. HIGHY doubt its the diff since it was just rebuilt about 2 months ago and had maybe 1000 miles on it.
Its not necessarily shaking the H3 badly, just sounds not good.
Btw ill mention I do have upgraded front diff bushings, so more noise is emitted in general.
.

ABNTROOP
10-06-2015, 12:35 PM
I plan on installing in this weekend. Does your shaft have counter weights from balancing? May look into having it re-balanced just because.yep, it's got a counter weight. He says its balanced at 100mph.

rascole
10-06-2015, 12:39 PM
Process of elimination. Remove the new shaft and hear if the noise is still there.

4speedfunk
10-06-2015, 01:18 PM
I'm not an expert on this and it is a huge topic with all sorts of opinions. Here's what I know...

Vibes on cardan CVs are not uncommon, and the internet is choked with this same discussion for all vehicles...mostly the full-time 4WD Jeep guys. I would give Tatton a call and perhaps he can shed some light on the issue. If any of you find some useful info...post it up. Cardans do not have the inherent vibe-cancelling features that the stock 6-ball CV has (which is why GM uses them). Because the cardan is a full-mechanical connection...they tend to transmit more vibrations. I have experienced vibes on previous driveshafts and when I did have them, it felt more like a low-frequency "hum" rather than a vibe. Like ABN and CGAlpha...it seemed to come & go at certain speeds and under certain loads. Mine was most noticeable in 4th gear (with the torque converter locked-up). One thing to keep in mind, is that ENGINE rpm and DRIVESHAFT rpm are two totally different things. ENGINE rpm will pass thru the same "vibe-range" in every gear. So, when you say you have vibes at certain ENGINE rpm...I think the issue might be nothing more than motor vibes getting transferred to the cabin via the driveshaft. This type of vibe would occur in every gear, at that same motor rpm. It would be very similar to exhaust drone, and how it behaves. It might also be "load induced". Conversely, DRIVESHAFT rpm will not pass thru a vibe-range in every gear. It will only occur at a specific vehicle speed...and will only be present at that speed...regardless of gear.

One quick thing to try is shimming the front diff pinion up or down with some washers to see if it has an effect. I would try a 1/4" thick washer (or washers)...that should be enough of a change to register. Not sure if this would do anything but, u-joints and drivelines are mysterious creatures, and I've heard that a pinion angle adjustment can make a difference.

Tatton says he balances these shafts to 100 mph, which makes no sense. It needs to be balanced to an RPM, and not a MPH. MPH can vary from vehicle to vehicle depending on gear ratio and tire size. EXAMPLE: A car traveling at 100 MPH with 2.73 gears will be spinning the driveshaft at a vastly different rpm than the same vehicle with 4.56 gears. So, I don't know where the 100 MPH balance comes into play, and how he arrives at that number. FWIW...my Tatton-supplied 1310 shaft is 100% vibe free. None. Zero. Nada. However I am running a solid axle, so its not really an apples-to-apples comparison.

CGAlpha concerns me when he says he has a "grinding" sound. I have never had a grinding sound on any shaft except one that is total junk. I cannot imagine what would be grinding but, whatever it is...it ain't good. I would park it until you can find out.

4speedfunk
10-06-2015, 03:05 PM
I just spoke to Curtis at Tatton, and we both agreed on the same conclusion that pretty much every Jeeper already knows: Sometimes they vibrate. Sometimes they don't. While its not the conclusion anybody wants to hear, its been the standard conclusion for the last thirty years or so and it seems to have merit. This is why everything full-time 4WD after 1985 or so...runs a high-speed (6-ball) type CV. What is troubling is that some guys have issues...and some guys don't. Here is a list of possible solutions I'm going to offer up, if you are having vibration issues...

1. Jack up the front wheels. Un-bolt the front u-joint from the diff, and rotate the yoke 180 degrees...then bolt it back up. Test drive.

2. Jack up the front wheels. Un-bolt the rear cardan from the t-case, and rotate it 90 degrees...then bolt it back up. Test drive.

3. Try inserting various thicknesses of washers under the nose on the diff (between the crossmember and the pumpkin), to change the pinion angle. Test drive.

General consensus is that ALL vibrations are rarely eliminated completely. Almost every full-time 4WD that runs a cardan joint...will have some vibrations under certain conditions. Most people seem to think this related to pinion angle, and fortunately for us...that can be adjusted with spacers under the nose of the diff, without effecting caster (like it would on a solid-axle). I'll be meeting CGAlpha08 Thursday, and if we have time...we'll experiment with angles and shims. Perhaps we can "tune" the shaft to minimize or even eliminate the vibrations. I'll post-up what we find.

H3slate
10-06-2015, 03:10 PM
Any long term consequences from the vibration?

ABNTROOP
10-06-2015, 03:11 PM
Yup, what he said. Good info, good plan to see if we can reduce it. My concern is long term ramifications to either the front diff or the transfer case. Will see. I'll tinker with the Above suggestions over the next few weeks and report back as well.

rascole
10-06-2015, 03:12 PM
1. Jack up the front wheels. Un-bolt the front u-joint from the diff, and rotate the yoke 180 degrees...then bolt it back up. Test drive.

2. Jack up the front wheels. Un-bolt the rear cardan from the t-case, and rotate it 90 degrees...then bolt it back up. Test drive.

3. Try inserting various thicknesses of washers under the nose on the diff (between the crossmember and the pumpkin), to change the pinion angle. Test drive.
.
4. Stick with the original drive shaft.

ABNTROOP
10-06-2015, 03:15 PM
4. Stick with the original drive shaft. although that is certainly always an option after having had a replacement boot tear within 8 weeks of mainly freeway driving I'm leery of going that route. Who knows, maybe the GM engineers put the original drive line in for a reason. Then again, maybe not. Dunno. I'm no engineer. Just trying to find the best most reliable solution and would really rather not have to wipe out a crap ton of grease off the bottom of my rig a third time..

4speedfunk
10-06-2015, 03:24 PM
Yes that is an option. I think the stock CV joint is acceptable, AS LONG AS IT STAYS LUBED. The problem is the boot. Once the boot rips...the joint quickly fails soon after. The design seems to account for this as it looks like the "cup" is intended to protect the boot. But it doesn't work.
I'm not aware of any t-case or diff failures that can be proven to be caused by long-tern use of a cardan. Not on Hummers, Jeeps, or anything else. I think the vibe "feels" much worse than it actually is. It's a "harmonics" situation and not really due to something being lop-sided or out of balance.

rascole
10-06-2015, 04:12 PM
Yes that is an option. I think the stock CV joint is acceptable, AS LONG AS IT STAYS LUBED. The problem is the boot. Once the boot rips...the joint quickly fails soon after. The design seems to account for this as it looks like the "cup" is intended to protect the boot. But it doesn't work.
I'm not aware of any t-case or diff failures that can be proven to be caused by long-tern use of a cardan. Not on Hummers, Jeeps, or anything else. I think the vibe "feels" much worse than it actually is. It's a "harmonics" situation and not really due to something being lop-sided or out of balance.
I agree, my 3 rarely sees anything above 65, never really in much of a hurry.

cgalpha08
10-08-2015, 02:03 PM
Just wanted to update everyone. Had the drive-shaft/drivetrain looked at, the noises i was hearing are normal for this type of drive-shaft and are rather minimal. The really only occur at one point in the torque band.

I guess i was being more or less paranoid because I have had 2 diffs go out. So everything is ship shape, drive-shaft and adapter combo are running perfectly.

atvspeed4
10-08-2015, 04:17 PM
Please do not take this as bashing or discrediting 4speedfunk I have really been impressed with the products you have brought to market but I just wanted to add in my educated opinion on the front driveshaft. There is no reason to run a double cardan joint on an H3 unless you have a SAS and are lifted 5+ inches which necessitates the ability to achieve a higher angle. A double cardan is not a direct replacement for a tripod joint. While they both are considered constant velocity joints, the dimensions, precision, design and finish are very different. You are adding additional rotating mass, moving the pivot point out from the transfercase (typically) and I have found that a double cardan is typically not a precision machined/ balanced piece. While I know they say they balance the shaft, for some reason double cardan joints tend to behave differently when installed and used in the real world. The shaft we decided to make for our personal H3 just uses a single 1310 joint on each end and a slip spline in the middle with a custom yoke/ flange to mate to the transfercase. This is the longest possible driveshaft combination and is pretty close to matching the pivot of the stock tripod joint. We have not had any issues with vibration and are limiting the number of moving parts as we really want the most simple and serviceable improvements. Most driveshaft shops can build one of these shafts. Heck while it would lengthen the shaft a little you probably could still run the adapter. Just my opinion...

4speedfunk
10-08-2015, 05:12 PM
No bash taken...agree 100%. The CV is not needed for angle...its there to cancel any weird vibes that might occur without it.

In fact...I think I could run a single jointed shaft, even on my 5"+ lifted SAS rig. The 3-link I use has very mild driveline angles, even at 5" of lift. I think Big Red (and soon to be) Squeaky would be in even better shape. They both use hi-pinion housings, and the driveshaft angle is even less. On the solid axle set-up, it would work fine at static ride-height but, as the suspension droops...it would quickly get into "bind" range. So we definitely need the CV for the live axle.

But like you say...there is no droop with the IFS, and the shaft angle at the yoke is near zero. Its the one at the t-case that has some bend to it. Ideally when running a single-jointed shaft...the two angles at each end are supposed to be the same, to cancel each other out. Normally you would shim the t-case crossmember or shim the front axle pinion angle to get them the same. Its a very minor issue and there is lots of fluff in that rule of thumb. I see nothing wrong with a single-jointed shaft and if anyone wants to try it out...its probably even cheaper than the CV shaft that Tatton is making for us. This same 1310 CV flange is available in a standard single u-joint flange. It looks like this:

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/08/5c4b5652f7d4ec45ed98e286d85a9de9.jpg

Here's a shot of the two flanges in question...standard 1310 flange...and 1310-CV:

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/08/e9e0bb363e1c0191049fabc341d65dad.jpg

As you can see the single u-joint is much shorter. The overall length of the shaft would still need to be the same 30". You would need to specify a standard 1310 u-joint flange, instead of the CV. Also, if anyone wants to convert their CV equipped shaft to the standard U-joint...you can do it without any welding, or buying a new driveshaft. Simply buy the standard flange, and install it in place of the CV on your current driveshaft. You will need to cut the center-pin off the CV casting (the one attached to the driveshaft tube). This will result in a shorter overall length, so you would also need a longer slip collar at the other end. These collars are available in several lengths, and you need to select one to match the length difference between the parts you swapped on the other end. They just pull off by hand but, make sure you note the phasing so you put the new one back on in the same orientation. Here's a shot of the what a longer slip collar looks like:

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/08/9aaaf9f673cb36fc54d6349a92ee9dd8.jpg

BTW...All of this stuff is very common, over-the-counter parts. Any driveline shop can do this work if you don't feel up to it.

mantracker
10-08-2015, 09:08 PM
I spoke with Curtis yesterday on the status of my order. He told me, that his lathe is down, and he's had to do these by hand. Would this have any bearing on the quality of the shaft?

4speedfunk
10-09-2015, 07:35 AM
"his lathe is down" is machinist jargon for "I'm taking Friday off". It loosely translates to..."I got a bucket of night-crawlers, a twelve pack of beer, and I'm goin fishin!"

All joking aside. I don't think a lathe being down would effect the quality of his product.

rascole
10-09-2015, 10:15 AM
and I doubt he's turning parts by hand. It's down because he turned it off.

05Mudiak
10-09-2015, 02:29 PM
I want we just had to have our front diff rebuilt due to pinion bearing going out. need one please.

rascole
10-10-2015, 11:52 PM
Installed my new adapter and shaft today. Quick installation and easy to do. The only mod I had to do was 2 of the bolts on the TC side I had to grind down a little because the flange face was digging into the side of the U joint. After I had the old shaft out I could clearly see the rubber boot on the CV and it had a lot of cracking and looked like it could go any time. I test drove it up to 60 mph and there was NO vibration felt, I did however HEAR the noise. I will take a video of it tomorrow and post it.
http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=19887&stc=1http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=19891&stc=1http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=19888&stc=1http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=19889&stc=1http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=19890&stc=1

06 H3
10-11-2015, 12:05 PM
When u guys talk about noise is it noise on deceleration?

ABNTROOP
10-11-2015, 12:47 PM
Yeah, primarily. When I'm at 70ish mph and let off the gas for a sec or three I can hear/feel a slight grinding vibration. I had the drive shaft out yesterday and checked it over. No wear marks. Everything looks fine. Rebolted it up just rotated the U joint 180 when I bolted it back in. Vibration was still there on test drive last night. Going to unbolt adapter to transfer case and rebolt it to see if it makes a difference.

cgalpha08
10-11-2015, 12:51 PM
Let me reiterate I wasn't having a vibration, it was a noise at a certain point in the torque curve. And Chris, no what I heard was on acceleration.

rascole
10-11-2015, 01:17 PM
When u guys talk about noise is it noise on deceleration?
At all times. It is at all speeds as well which leads me to believe it is the double cardan. Because it is a new sound is why it is of concern. But I'm not overly concerned, if was transferred to the body I would be. Did my pictures show up or is the site still acting up?

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

rascole
10-11-2015, 01:19 PM
Let me reiterate I wasn't having a vibration, it was a noise at a certain point in the torque curve. And Chris, no what I heard was on acceleration.
Did you add grease before you installed it?

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

cgalpha08
10-11-2015, 01:22 PM
Did you add grease before you installed it?

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
No, it came pre-greased, at least it should have and that's what it looked like.

ABNTROOP
10-11-2015, 01:49 PM
Yeah, mine was pre greased as well

rascole
10-11-2015, 01:56 PM
Mine LOOKED pre greased with a red lube but I added 2 squirts just in case.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

05Mudiak
10-11-2015, 06:57 PM
that kind of grinding noise was the first sign of our pinion bearing going out

rascole
10-11-2015, 09:12 PM
Here is a video. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TheJcQIVeaM)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TheJcQIVeaM

4speedfunk
10-12-2015, 10:19 AM
Rascole....that sounds horrible! I'll be the first to admit that I don't watch, or listen to undercarriage video very often...so I don't have much of an opinion based solely on your video. But, its definitely "loud and grindy". It sounds like a bearing issue to me...probably pinion bearing or perhaps something going bad in the output shaft of the t-case. I'm assuming you can hear this inside the cabin, as well? My first thought is to check the pinion bearing on the front axle, as they are often times completely void of any pre-load at all. Grab the front diff yoke and give it a firm hand-shake...see if you can feel any looseness in it. Specifically, side-to-side looseness (not backlash looseness). This is best done with the front wheels off the ground, and the driveshaft disconnected.

I had a similar sound coming from my H3 and I would have bet my right arm it was a pinion bearing. However, it turned out to be a heat shield on the exhaust system. It rattled on decel and sounded amazingly similar to yours. It also seemed to get worse as the operating temperature rose. I had to drive around for 15 minutes before it became fully-audible. You might tap all the heat shields (there are several of them) with a hammer, and see if the sounds goes away, or changes. I think the solid cardan CV transmits more engine/driveline noise to the rest of the truck, and if a shield is loose...it will rattle, where it didn't before.

rascole
10-12-2015, 11:36 AM
As far as the sound, the video may not represent exactly how I hear it. I would describe it more as a clicking sound. When I replaced the shaft I checked for movement and found none, all 4 wheels were off the ground because I was doing rear brakes at the same time. As far as the sound, it is barely audible inside the cabin when I am close to another car or building and hear the echo. I drove it in to work this morning and hit 75 mph for 5+ miles and felt no vibration whatsoever. This weekend I will take the front shaft off and run it again with the camera. Remember that this sound was NOT there before I swapped shafts so I doubt the pinion bearing would fail at the same time, BUT.

4speedfunk
10-12-2015, 11:55 AM
The high-speed CV on the stock shaft is fantastic at cancelling vibes and masking any drivetrain noises that would otherwise be transmitted to the rest of the vehicle. Its entirely possible that the source of the noise has been there all along...but hidden by the stock shaft.

rascole
10-12-2015, 11:48 PM
Here is a video with the camera pointed right at the double cardan. (https://youtu.be/iDvp7X0NkSI)

https://youtu.be/iDvp7X0NkSI

4speedfunk
10-13-2015, 07:16 AM
Great video....but I don't see any issues that would cause the noise.

rascole
10-13-2015, 08:52 AM
Same here. I'm going to pull the front shaft and try it out. I'm more curious than anything else.

rascole
10-13-2015, 10:41 PM
So, pulled the shaft when I got home from work and bad/good news is it is not the shaft. Sounds is still there and it sounds like it may be the transfer case. Oh crap! Going to test more tomorrow.
Video.
https://youtu.be/5MZTrjXL8UM

derian06
10-13-2015, 10:45 PM
So, pulled the shaft when I got home from work and bad/good news is it is not the shaft. Sounds is still there and it sounds like it may be the transfer case. Oh crap! Going to test more tomorrow.
Video.
https://youtu.be/5MZTrjXL8UM

Thats the same sound I had when my transfer case blew. May be time to get it checked out.

rascole
10-13-2015, 10:51 PM
That's what I'm afraid of.

06 H3
10-13-2015, 11:37 PM
on a Tcase note I noticed a lot of t case issues are due to nasty fluid. they say change the fluid every 50k but its nasty at 50k so I changed it to 25k and its still pretty dirty. I plan on changing it after 15k to see. I know its weird but many issues I have seen people post up on t cases they mention they have never changed the fluid or when they check the fluid its nasty looking.

rascole
10-13-2015, 11:42 PM
Mine was serviced less than 10k when I had the plastic shift fork replaced with the metal one.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

4speedfunk
10-14-2015, 06:24 AM
The clicking may be the chain hitting the inside surface of the case. They stretch as they wear....sometimes wearing completely through the case. Later years got an internal snubber plate to help control the "slap" but those can come loose and cause even more damage than a loose chain. Regardless...a chain swap is not too tough of a job. Also check the front output shaft bearing for slop.
I'm with 06H3....fluid changes are critical. I honestly don't know what makes the fluid so nasty in such a short time. There are no clutches or viscous coupling in there....so the dark fluid must be a combination of heat and metal particulate.
FWIW...my 99 Burb has 210k miles on one t-case fluid change, (NP-246)....but it is part-time. The hummer is spinning everything...all the time, so that must also contribute to the short fluid life.

rascole
10-14-2015, 08:18 AM
I did read that the 06's had a lower fill plug, am I correct? There is NO slop on the output shaft and the front diff is tight as well. Gonna put it on the backyard dyno with the front shaft removed tonight to confirm it.

H3slate
10-14-2015, 12:22 PM
The 06's do have a lower fill plug. You have to add additional fluid through the speed sensor plug to get the right amount.

05Mudiak
10-17-2015, 10:41 PM
Well receive my driveshaft today and mounted the adapter idk if I should paint it since it is already rusting.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/21/87dc70e7b00d472cfaf78d4dbd6bb44a.jpg


Torres

Was this one from the ebay site posted at the begging of this thread, if not where/how did you order it? Thank you

RamRod
10-18-2015, 01:04 AM
Yup this is the one from the eBay seller previously posted

Panzer07
10-18-2015, 06:30 PM
Was this one from the ebay site posted at the begging of this thread, if not where/how did you order it? Thank you

Yeah pretty much, here's the link...there's many other seller that advertise the same product about cheaper as well however I decided to go with what everyone here has used before instead of testing new waters
http://m.ebay.com/itm/330774155483?_mwBanner=1


Torres

05Mudiak
10-18-2015, 06:54 PM
Is there a difference between these two?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330583612965

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330774155483

rascole
10-18-2015, 07:02 PM
Is there a difference between these two?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330583612965

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330774155483
Nothing. I had noticed this when I was looking for mine.

4speedfunk
10-18-2015, 07:06 PM
One bolts in with a flange. One bolts in with u-joint straps.
You need the one with the flange, (the hack & tap shaft).

4speedfunk
10-18-2015, 08:24 PM
Also...I'm getting a standard "test shaft" made. Atv (along with several other driveline guys) have suggested this. So I'm going to foot the bill for one and do some test installs to see how it compares to the 1310 cv shafts that everyone on here is running.

I'll post up my findings.

08H3
10-19-2015, 06:07 PM
Had some time this morning to put the shaft in that has been setting on the shelf for a while. I know some have suspected balance issues, but this one seems great. No issues from city driving through interstate speeds.

4Speed- What's the standard "test shaft" you mentioned? Just a singe U-Joint on each end or something else?

4speedfunk
10-20-2015, 05:48 PM
4Speed- What's the standard "test shaft" you mentioned? Just a singe U-Joint on each end or something else?

Yup. Single u-joint on each end, with a slip collar at the front axle. Not sure if it will work with my solid axle but, it might be okay with the IFS guys.

mantracker
10-20-2015, 06:46 PM
So, is rascole having T-case issues, or Tatton drive shaft issues? I Have received my Tatton shaft, but haven't had time to install it yet.
As soon as I get time, I will install it, and report it's performance.

rascole
10-20-2015, 06:49 PM
So, is rascole having T-case issues, or Tatton drive shaft issues? I Have received my Tatton shaft, but haven't had time to install it yet.
As soon as I get time, I will install it, and report it's performance.
Rascole's shaft is just fine (that's what she said). My TC is in the shop being rebuilt, low fluid level and chain stretch are the culprit. When I had the metal for installed 3 years ago the mechanic was unaware of the too low fill point. Now I am going to fill it after it is installed with 1.7 qts just to be sure.

RamRod
10-20-2015, 11:04 PM
Got my shaft today, installing it along with the adaptor was a breeze! Only drove it around the block but everything felt fine for what that's worth... I will take it on the highway this week and see how that feels

08H3
10-28-2015, 10:46 AM
I don't see any good reason not to go with the Thor/Tatton setup, BUT if you absolutely want a direct bolt on version for some reason, Fort Wayne Clutch is now building these that require no adapter.

http://www.fortwayneclutch.com/index.php/driveshafts/domestic/g-m/hummer/h3t-h3t-alpha/2006-2010-hummer-h3-replacement-heavy-duty-conversion-cardan-cv-style-front-driveshaft-for-lifted-applications-sku-25859867-3rconv.html

EDIT: Just noticed it uses 3R joints instead of 1310s. Take that for what it's worth.

4speedfunk
10-28-2015, 10:50 AM
Yeah that's the 3R CV I spoke about earlier in this thread. The 1310 is a much better unit.

rascole
10-28-2015, 12:15 PM
What is the difference?

4speedfunk
10-28-2015, 01:04 PM
The 3R CV uses two 3R u-joints and a special "Hummer only" casting that bolts directly to the H3's output flange.
The 1310 CV uses two 1310 u-joints and a Ford flange (requires the THORparts adapter).

3R joints use internal snap ring clips. 1310 joints use external c-clips. I would post pics but its sort of a big deal to get them to appear. Just go to google images, and type 3R vs 1310 and you'll see the difference.

Both cv's are very common but, IMO...the 1310 cv is a much smoother and quieter unit. The flange bolt pattern is of the 1310 is also very common...used on many Jeeps and Fords, while the 3R is used mainly on 70-80 GM and Dodge trucks. For some reason...NEAPCO decided to make the "Hummer only" casting using the 3R cv. So, to get the benefits of the smaller 1310, you must use an adapter. And that's what the THORparts piece is.

Nutshell.

Panzer07
10-28-2015, 05:33 PM
Thor and tatton is a cheaper set up as well.


Torres

Hunner
01-27-2016, 02:20 AM
Just installed my Knight Metal Works skid plate and noticed grease around the area of the front cv drive shaft.
Well now would be a good time to install my plate and drive shaft that has been laying out in the shop.

After removing the old one and swiveling it around it stopped in several places and bound up.
Whew, I think this was a timely install.

Thanks 4Speed!

I got almost home when I realized I had not thought about the drive shaft part of this fix. Guess it's balanced, I could not tell any difference.

http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/800_0053-cr.jpg (http://s913.photobucket.com/user/DHunter_bucket/media/800_0053-cr.jpg.html)

http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/800_0058-cr.jpg (http://s913.photobucket.com/user/DHunter_bucket/media/800_0058-cr.jpg.html)

http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/800_0057.jpg (http://s913.photobucket.com/user/DHunter_bucket/media/800_0057.jpg.html)

mantracker
03-10-2016, 08:34 PM
I installed my Thorparts adapter and Tatton driveshaft Tuesday. This upgrade appears to be light years ahead of the OEM shaft. Bullet proof!
I put about 150 miles on it today, interstate driving. 85mph, no vibrations, smooth as glass. Very impressed.

Thanks 4speed for developing another great product, along with the Tatton shaft.

napalmsticks
03-16-2016, 12:22 PM
Any more adapters available?

napalmsticks
03-16-2016, 02:28 PM
Order for a drive shaft placed. Wonder if my CV will holdout for delivery.:giggle:


http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=20725&stc=1
http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=20726&stc=1

mantracker
03-16-2016, 08:12 PM
Thorparts is the only one that know of that makes the adapter. I've purchased several of his products, with NO disappointments.
The shaft you'll have to order from Tatton.

napalmsticks
03-17-2016, 11:39 AM
Thorparts is the only one that know of that makes the adapter. I've purchased several of his products, with NO disappointments.
The shaft you'll have to order from Tatton.

Yeah, grabbed the adapter from him and drive-shaft from Tatton. I can smell the CV joint after driving the truck to and from work. Thinking about just taking it out and driving in 4 hi until I get the drive shaft in as I don't want the current CV to fail while driving down the highway.

rascole
03-17-2016, 12:46 PM
Yeah, grabbed the adapter from him and drive-shaft from Tatton. I can smell the CV joint after driving the truck to and from work. Thinking about just taking it out and driving in 4 hi until I get the drive shaft in as I don't want the current CV to fail while driving down the highway.
Probably a good idea. I had to do the same for a few days.

Romeo
04-11-2016, 11:58 AM
How's everyone liking the Taton drive shaft? Also are you all only changing the front and leaving the rear with the original? I plan on ordering one of these drive shaft and was wondering if I only should change the front. Also , does Thor parts still Have the adapter? If not I'm screwed

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

rascole
04-11-2016, 12:22 PM
I like mine and only replaced the front.

4speedfunk
04-11-2016, 12:42 PM
I got probably 15-20 adapters remaining...$99 shipped. If you want one, send me a PM with your direct email. I can connect you to Tatton Driveline for the new shaft.

On the rear...most guys run a bone stock shaft. It seems to do a good job unless you really lift the rear suspension. If you do a spring-over-axle mod on the rear suspension, you will notice the rear driveshaft will be too short afterwards. So I recommend installing a longer one to keep the slip-yoke from being pulled out so far. I am running over 6" of lift and I have zero issues running a stock slip-yoke and standard U-joints on the rear shaft. The shaft angle (even at full droop) is not enough to bother with anything more complex. I think my new shaft was approximately 1.5" longer than stock, and this put the slip yoke right back in the stock position.

There are a few H4O members that have added cardan joints (Bebe) and/or slip-yoke eliminators (jakeZ28) to rear shafts.

Romeo
04-11-2016, 02:00 PM
I got probably 15-20 adapters remaining...$99 shipped. If you want one, send me a PM with your direct email. I can connect you to Tatton Driveline for the new shaft.

On the rear...most guys run a bone stock shaft. It seems to do a good job unless you really lift the rear suspension. If you do a spring-over-axle mod on the rear suspension, you will notice the rear driveshaft will be too short afterwards. So I recommend installing a longer one to keep the slip-yoke from being pulled out so far. I am running over 6" of lift and I have zero issues running a stock slip-yoke and standard U-joints on the rear shaft. The shaft angle (even at full droop) is not enough to bother with anything more complex. I think my new shaft was approximately 1.5" longer than stock, and this put the slip yoke right back in the stock position.

There are a few H4O members that have added cardan joints (Bebe) and/or slip-yoke eliminators (jakeZ28) to rear shafts.

Thanks 4speed! Is there a reason why we should go with 1310s vs 1350s?

SoCalH3
04-18-2019, 07:53 PM
Wouldn't suppose these THOR adaptors are still available..?

4speedfunk
04-19-2019, 11:14 AM
I'm sold out right now. But, I am doing some R&D on a new one that uses a JK shaft. The 1310cv flange is fairly common but, the problem is the quality of the 1310 parts you use. I had issues with several Tatton shafts only to find out they were assembled incorrectly with mismatched no-name (Chinese) parts. This discovery led me down the path to genuine Spicer parts. Once I started using quality Spicer parts, I can honestly say the shaft is much smoother than before.

Unfortunately there are a couple problems with the Spicer parts too...

First, the Spicer 1310cv must be field-built from individual Spicer pieces. Most cardan CV's can be bought totally assembled, and all you do is weld them to the tube and you're golden. But for some reason Spicer does not offer a pre-assembled cardan CV in the 1310 version needed. The cost of the individual parts is much higher than the cost of a pre-assembled unit.

Second, since the cardan must be field-built by the driveline guy...his labor is much more than it would be if it came pre-assembled.

All of this means the shaft price is quite high (over $450), plus the cost of the adapter. Quite frankly...a driveshaft like this should not cost more than $300. So to reduce cost & complexity, I am working on an adapter to use a JK shaft. That way you can buy whatever shaft you want...USA made, Chinese, or whatever and you will have more options than simply "use Spicer stuff or don't do it".

DFW Spartan
04-19-2019, 12:36 PM
Wouldn't suppose these THOR adaptors are still available..?Pretty sure I have a new THORparts adaptor that I could part with, if you're interested. Still in its original packaging.

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SoCalH3
04-20-2019, 12:35 AM
I am looking into a few different options, but if I come back to this I will hit you up. Thanks!

jakesz28
04-29-2019, 02:36 PM
Do you have this figured out or still looking at options? Any of you original adapters left?

SoCalH3
04-29-2019, 08:39 PM
I'm going a different route, but DFW Spartan still had one on hand that he had offered up.