• Welcome to H4O! For a reduced ad experience, please login or register with the forum.

Rock slider options

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,402
Location
Way up north, UT
So, I see some awesome rock sliders made specifically for the H3, like Schwarttzy's beefy ones and whatnot, but I really don't have that kind of money, especially after factoring in shipping.

I'm looking at building my own set, but I don't feel like I need something as beefy as Schwarttzy's, since I do not plan on beating the snot out of my H3 offroad (it's my daily driver and I only have this vehicle to use). I just want something that will help protect the body from getting mangled if I get too close to a rock or tree. Since it's also mainly for commuting with occasional offroad use, I don't feel I need to add nearly 200Lbs to the H3 for something like this.

Would I be ok going with 1/8" wall tubing for the sliders? Probably 2" square or round tube. I know that seems to be what a lot of other vehicles use for their sliders, so it seems like it'd be enough for the medium use I'd be putting it through. Just wanted other's thoughts on this.
 

rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,596
Location
Bellflower, CA
Beefy is better. All it takes is one rock or one tree to wish you had beefier sliders. I have the factory ones because I got a killer deal on ebay, otherwise I was going to buy Schwarttzy's.
 

derian06

Red Rockett
Messages
1,866
Location
Madison, AL
I'd just go with 3/16", I got a killer deal on the oem ones or I would have built my own. And I may still build my own and sell the oems.
 

K0PIR

Well-Known Member
Messages
216
Location
Pierre, SD
I just installed some oem ones. I was going to look into modifying those. Maybe weld a piece to it. I would like it to stick out in the back so I can reach my roof rack easier.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
 

rsc

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,087
Location
Tulsa
102761d1384722227-rock-sliders-rs04_5lx.jpg
Talk to the guys at 4X Innovations, the build "semi-built" sliders. They can make them out of HREW, DOM, whatever, with single or double kickoffs in whatever length you want. You just weld on the mounting legs and weld or bolt them to your frame. I think he would make you a set under $350 shipped.
 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,450
Location
Scottsdale
They need to be strong. Not strong can be as bad or worse than no protection when they get bent upwards, or backwards into a tire, as you'll see on occasion with nerf bars.
 

amrg

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,317
Location
Qatar
When my truck landed on a block (dont ask) the sliders bent at the mount., the slider moved upwards 1/2 "
The frame was fully protected though.
 

digglesworth

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,789
Location
illinois
i did the same thing as amrg on a stump. came down a little hard on it. the passenger side has a little less of a gap now between the rail and rocker panel. still going strong though...
 

SoCalH3

Well-Known Member
Messages
106
Location
Beaumont
That helps give me an idea, thanks for the info! It might be worth going OEM if I find the right price. Also considering Schwarttzy's
 
Last edited:

K0PIR

Well-Known Member
Messages
216
Location
Pierre, SD
That helps give me an idea, thanks for the info! It might be worth going OEM if I find the right price. Also considering Schwarttzy's

OEM's show up occasionally for a good price, whether used or new. Patience is the key to a good price. :)
 

chaos254

Well-Known Member
Messages
577
Location
United States
attachment.php

Talk to the guys at 4X Innovations, the build "semi-built" sliders. They can make them out of HREW, DOM, whatever, with single or double kickoffs in whatever length you want. You just weld on the mounting legs and weld or bolt them to your frame. I think he would make you a set under $350 shipped.

I just sent them an email on getting a DIY slider built. Looks like 72" would be perfect, HREW. I'm just trying to decide if I want kickouts and how far I want the sliders to come out.
 
Last edited:

rsc

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,087
Location
Tulsa
I would definitely get DOM, especially if you are set on 1/8" thickness. Much better stuff, imo. I found that the 3.5"-4" long legs lined it up with the pinch seam and allowed it to stick out as a step too. The supplied 4x4 plates are small for our mounting pattern, ask for undrilled 5x5 plates that can be cut back to size and drilled to fit at home (2 different bolt patterns, and 2 different plate sizes are needed because of the space for the front mount).
 

chaos254

Well-Known Member
Messages
577
Location
United States
I would definitely get DOM, especially if you are set on 1/8" thickness. Much better stuff, imo. I found that the 3.5"-4" long legs lined it up with the pinch seam and allowed it to stick out as a step too. The supplied 4x4 plates are small for our mounting pattern, ask for undrilled 5x5 plates that can be cut back to size and drilled to fit at home (2 different bolt patterns, and 2 different plate sizes are needed because of the space for the front mount).
I was reading about HREW vs DOM but most people say DOM is overkill. Do you have any pics of your setup?
 

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,402
Location
Way up north, UT
Thanks for all the input guys. I'm still trying to figure out what I want to do, but i'll probably go with 3/16" wall thickness. I'm running short on funds now after getting the Thor bumper, so it'll probably be a while before I can get sliders. Looks like I started a good conversation though! :)
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,212
Location
Tardville
Several companies make pre-designed slider kits. They come in several lengths with the "ladders" pre-welded, and mounting brackets left loose. Also check into adapting sliders from a Toyota. Either of these options is cheaper and easier than starting from scratch.
 

rsc

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,087
Location
Tulsa
There are good point to DOM and good points to CREW/HREW. Do you design sliders to never bend or dent and all that stress is transferred into the frame and vehicle, or do you design for the tubes to flex and absorb the energy, even if that leaves a mark? I guess it depends on what you want out of your sliders.

The closest Toyota sliders I have seen are 68" long vs 72" for our trucks, but vehicle weights are pretty close. Jegs has kits on their site.
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,212
Location
Tardville
DOM is nice stuff but, most people don't understand what makes it different. They just see that dufus on Extreme 4x4 (with the ridiculous hair gel), use it on everything...and they assume that's the stuff they need. DOM is certainly the premier material...but the cost is hard to justify for non-life-threatening use. There are certain items that I would only use DOM on but...sliders might be one such item that I would be fine using ERW. That gate I built for Big Red was done with ERW, and it was rock solid. The important thing about ERW is that you don't run long spans without adding some support to it. In the case of a rock slider...it will most likely have supports every 18" or so anyway. So the entire "ladder" ends up being very rigid...even though the tubing itself might not be. Bracing DOM every 18" is sort of wasting its strength, and there is little difference until you get into long spans. Check it out...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buu3Ytubp1s

DOM is much prettier but, its not 3-times the price pretty. My point is...Its hard to tell Janet Yellen from Sophia Guerra with the lights off. So only use DOM when you go out in public.
 

Scarsman

Sponsor
Messages
1,561
Location
Monroe, WA
I agree on the DOM. In a slider application, you won't see a difference. At all. Save the money and use it for more mods!
 
Top