• Welcome to H4O! For a reduced ad experience, please login or register with the forum.

Gpcalero

Well-Known Member
Messages
253
Location
SW Florida
More goodies for the Hummer truck... Diode Dynamics flush mount SS3 LED fog lights.



mqlJKJT.jpg




Already starting to work on them. Anybody know what they are going in???



mXk4rnO.jpg




Got the 'ol Dremmel out and used the template to cut out one side...



unlSKdd.jpg




And... other side done.



nSSJ9Ga.jpg




Pretty excited for these. Got the SAE ones with the amber running lights. Look forward to getting everything installed together, for those who know what they are going in.
 

EndeavoredH3

Well-Known Member
Messages
419
Location
Arizona
More goodies for the Hummer truck... Diode Dynamics flush mount SS3 LED fog lights.



mqlJKJT.jpg




Already starting to work on them. Anybody know what they are going in???



mXk4rnO.jpg




Got the 'ol Dremmel out and used the template to cut out one side...



unlSKdd.jpg




And... other side done.



nSSJ9Ga.jpg




Pretty excited for these. Got the SAE ones with the amber running lights. Look forward to getting everything installed together, for those who know what they are going in.
I like the SAE ones with the yellow option. Keep getting high-beamed for them. Can only imagine how much more I’ll get high beamed after the rancho.
 

Gpcalero

Well-Known Member
Messages
253
Location
SW Florida
4.56 gear swap and 37's install time!!

I've still got some catching up to do. Back in December I started the gear swap process and upgrade to 37's. BIG thanks to 4SpeedFunk/CJ for assistance on making sure I have everything needed to move forward. -- First thing's first, started by removing wheels and removing the 35's...



1GM3Iv6.jpg




New 37 next to the 35 to be removed... she's a beefy girl!



R8lW2GT.jpg




Removing driveshafts, pulling axle shafts, and taking apart rear differential... Rear isn't too bad at all



gXRFtok.jpg





Rear diff pulled apart and ready for rebuild...



0PwEVTR.jpg




Locker pin plate inspection...



NbmtjNG.jpg




Took the time to replace the front driveshaft CV with an OEM replacement since it was removed and I started to feel some vibrations.



kOBfWtQ.jpg




Rear is done!!! New Yukon high performance 4.56 gears with AAM OEM install kits


oai6058.jpg



More to come...
 
Last edited:

Gpcalero

Well-Known Member
Messages
253
Location
SW Florida
Time to pull the front apart... Pulling the front IFS apart is more annoying and more work than the rear lol. So much more to pull apart than a live rear axle.


uI2MJVk.jpg




Front diff pulled, disassembled, initial clean, and prep for rebuild...


uQV0yRh.jpg




Inspection of the front diff. Getting new race and side bearings. I started noticing a little vibration up front so I'm glad to rebuild the diff and replace the front driveshaft CV.



5XBGAQK.jpg




For easier install, placed the pinion gear in freezer and warmed the pinion bearing in a toaster oven. Works like a charm lol.



PYOEV1Z.jpg




Painting gears for proper wear pattern.



oQVEWh8.jpg




Setting backlash/preload. This bastard didn't want to be perfect... The rear measured perfectly the first time, but this sucker wanted to fight us. Pulled it apart 3-4 times to set the proper backlash. Want it to be perfect, especially the front since it's such a hassle to work on lol. 😅



Time to test fit larger 37's!!



aMBdXbb.jpg




Rears...



UApekwI.jpg

wmE4LRB.jpg





Fronts!




fJDO4T0.jpg





Loving the look of the 37's!!! Long day of gear swaps and tire upgrades. Doing an oil change, clean up on smaller things and can't wait to see how she feels on the ground again. 😎
 

Gpcalero

Well-Known Member
Messages
253
Location
SW Florida
Still catching up on getting you guys updated lol.

Took the Duke out for its first tow-haul not too long after the gear swap/tire upgrade. Definitely more sporty feeling/more pep with the new gears, even with the larger tires. Has more pep than the old gears and 35s. But that doesn't mean that it's quick... she's still a tank! haha


ERRygbv.jpg





And all loaded up at the track after the event...


kmmeIrS.jpg



Fun weekend and had some new PBs with the car! The H3T tows a bit easier now with the new gearing so I'm loving that. She's no tow mule so the occasional haul job is fine. Loving the gearing upgrade overall, again it brought the pep back up and closer to what it felt like on stock tires.

Besides this, had some cool lighting upgrades that was in the works at this time with the help of a fellow Hummer buddy that I'll share next
 

Gpcalero

Well-Known Member
Messages
253
Location
SW Florida
Next up on the list was some new H3 LED taillights.

Picked up these nice looking H3 SUV LED taillights that I will retrofit on to the H3T. For the non-truck H3 guys out there, the standard SUV H3 tailights and the H3T taillights are not the same. They are extremely similar though. Some of the main differences you'll see below, but the wiring is different and the number of bulbs are different. More on that later. But besides that, the H3 taillights taper off at the front-most outside corner. The H3T taillights go straight up and do not taper off. They also have a bit different mounting points and extended plastics. The truck version is low profile at the edges in order not to interfere with the tailgate, and the SUV version has the edges extended out to the screw/mount locations.

Since the truck version is flush on the inner-tailgate side, the mounting locations for the screws are perpendicular to the screw locations for the SUV version. The screws face the sides of the truck not the front.

Here's the T version on the left and the H3 LED version on the right. You can see the truck version can sit flush together on the inside edges, and the SUV versions have the extended plastics...



AaVcEjE.jpg




And here's a look of the bottom of each style. Again, the truck version (H3T) is flush on the bottom versus the extended bottom edge of the SUV (H3) version.



COCHhNh.jpg




Side view from bottom...



FOtGIdq.jpg




Andddd we begin... Took my Dremel and started cutting the SUV style LED taillight to mimic the flush style truck version. Note the two mounting screw locations being on plastic being cut off.



jxUVpSX.jpg




Same for the bottom...



2n26zf1.jpg




Also made a short video for a buddy also looking to change over to the aftermarket LED H3 taillights, so I figured it may help out a fellow H3T owner.

Now, as I said in the video, I could have bought a 90 degree piece of plastic for the corner mounts, and epoxied them in. But not finding what I wanted at the hardware store, I decided to take some of the scrap plastic that I cut off beforehand, and Dremel them out to long rectangular strips, that I then put in my oven and baked until the plastic softened up (don't mind me slipping up and pronouncing the T in the video lmao). Once pliable, I bent the plastic around a 2x4 piece of lumber to get the desired corner/90 degree angle shape. When hardened and room temperature again, I cut to length on each location (4 total), and taped down to mock up on and off the truck until I had all four corner pieces perfectly aligned to each location. I then plastic epoxied each corner mount to it's designated spot, then let cure overnight.

Once done, I was left with the corner mount plastic visible in the truck screw holes. Since they were cured the next morning, I took a drill bit and drilled out the holes in the corner plastics (hopefully this all makes sense to a future H3T guy wanting to do this), and took the screw retention clip off of the H3T taillights, and on to the newly drilled holes on the H3 LED tails. Boom, H3 to H3T tails.

Don't pay too much attention to the back of the taillights after Dremeling. They don't look nearly as good when you start to cut schtuff off haha. but the fronts are still perfect.







View of the finished taillight shaved down and epoxied corner mounts.



2QgffT2.jpg




Now the physical part is done, the wiring part was next. For this, I went to a good buddy of mine who y'all may know as Acer here on the forums and from his Hummer YouTube channel as well. I had been toying around with doing this mod since summer of 2023 and finally bit the bullet and sent Acer a pair of NEW H3T specific taillight harnesses (yes, they are still for sale from dealers), and he modified the new H3T taillight harnesses to adapt to the H3 SUV style taillights with full functionality. This allowed me to simply remove the stock taillight harnesses and plug and play the modified H3T harness to match up with the H3 wiring. So I want to say a big thank you to Acer for this in public, because I pick on him quite a lot in real life lol.



4sQqfOJ.jpg




So because the H3T has 3 bulbs with their own circuits in total to control as opposed to the 2 circuits/bulbs in the SUV, I had to go with a switchback bulb for each side. I decided to go with these fancy Headlight Revolution GTR Lighting carbide 2 LED bulbs, which will be able to take on the role of both the turn signals and reverse lights with the new taillight harness wiring. And boy, are these things BRIGHT!!!



Z4aLdTf.jpg




The only item is that there is a tiny corner that is missing on the H3 style taillights when installed on the truck. You would have to be looking for it to typically see it. BUT... with the SnugTop on the back, you cannot tell at all. The minimal half inch coverage or so of the topper over the body makes that missing corner not visible. Almost caught up, as you can see in the video, this was around Christmas time of this past year.

I'll have to make a more in-depth video for you guys if you'd like. But this is just a look at the running lights during both the day and at night. Besides the running lights, the reverse lights are bright and the turn signal are REALLY bright. Really loving these on the truck.



 

Gpcalero

Well-Known Member
Messages
253
Location
SW Florida
Next on the list...

...but first! My first time seeing an H-Ev up close and not on the highway. I honestly think they are pretty sharp, and I'm not a big EV fan currently!



3zqCRHJ.jpg




I wanted to get a side-by-side shot, but didn't want to be the arse-hole who took up an EV charging spot with my tank of a truck. But it would have been funny lmao



7amS4EJ.jpg




So, anyways... next on the list are these seat riser molle panels from Badland Industries.



dxi1E34.jpg




They look decent and are unfinished, so away to paint or powder they'll go if you purchase. They serve as additional height for your legs in the front of the truck, as well as being able to mount/store additional items like below...

Here's a picture directly from Badland Industries website, showing as a mount for a flashlight or a fire extinguisher (which is a good idea in my opinion). They fit the Colorado, Canyon, H3 & H3T.



VaFpbuD.png




And here's another view about to prep for paint. Wiped them down with alcohol to remove any potential oil/grease/etc. prior to them arriving.



HrRgX5R.jpg




I decided to go with the Rollbar & Chassis spray paint from VHT since I have used this on several items on the mustang. Also chose this since I already had some on hand, and the final finish wasn't a gloss black paint in appearance.



hDz63CF.jpg




And all set! Passenger side view. Rather easy install after paint. Just loosen rear bolts on the front seats, and remove the front bolts. Place the molle panel riser and bolt back in place.



UW401Ac.jpg




Now I have space for future storage as well as not having the front of the seats raised all the way to the max height to give more knee angle. I sit back in the seat more now while still having the rear lowered. Tons more adjustment now.
 

Gpcalero

Well-Known Member
Messages
253
Location
SW Florida
Just my opinion, I prefer 100 times your rig than the new HeV...:rolleyes:. i don't like it. and i bet your is higher on ground clearance too ;)

Thank you H3Hummer :cool:

They are heavy bastards too lol. Weigh nearly 10,000 lbs! Batteries alone, weighs about as much as my mustang 😲 I would LOVE if they made a diesel version of it. That would be sick. Deff would be on my Hummer bucket list if so...

Speaking of Hummer bucket lists... I also wish they made an H2T and H2 Alphas or diesel alternative. Maybe the Alpha version could be a diesel. And don't mention the H2 SUT, I'm talking about a real truck bed like we have on the H3Ts, not a golf bag holder. I found recently that GM did in fact, make an H2T concept. Sad that it didn't make it! Ultimate Hummer IMO would be an '08-'09 interior diesel H2T Alpha. Anyways... enough fanbasing, more updates to come...
 

Gpcalero

Well-Known Member
Messages
253
Location
SW Florida
Bumper time...

I know I teased it a few posts ago, but now it's time. I purchased a new Thor Parts front bumper from CJ at the end of last summer and finally got around to installing it a few months ago.

Didn't take too many photos of it out of the box prior to installing but here's the center portion...



1vsVvYl.jpg




And one of the wings



Xz0uzfa.jpg




Prior to this, I mounted the new Diode Dynamics SS3 Pro fog lights in the fog buckets that I posted earlier



2Ke1Ggl.jpg




Right and left sides done



VGDblXr.jpg




(Before the taillights were even worked on lol)



ndn9QKi.jpg




And install is pretty straight forward. Basically remove the front end. Brush guard, grill, support panel, lower bumper, and the radiator support brace.


pOPoIS2.jpg




Front bumper mounted, wiring done, and testing of the new Diode Dynamics SS3 fog lights. I like these things ALOT. Kudos to Connor aka Cgalpha08 for suggesting them. Decided to go with the Pro SAE fog variants with the backlighting option. Here's a view with the bumper and the fogs on.



IW8AySJ.jpg




View with the fogs off, and the backlights ( or DRL) on. Went with the amber option. So this is what it will look like with the fogs off during normal driving



RZDngQz.jpg




Cleaned up and organized the mess of wires hanging, and re-mounted the front bumper. Here we noticed that the factory white paint behind the center bumper grill is prominent and sticking out like a sore thumb, so time to remove the lower grill, clean up, and paint that area.



dmptFEd.jpg




Clean and prepped.



AVpha2b.jpg




Done.



ly1dmXJ.jpg




Much better. Next part is to cut the overhanging wheel liners now that you gain much more clearance with the bumpers. You can see them just below the fog lights. Nothing a pneumatic cutter can't fix.


EC6UYXc.jpg




All trimed up and set. Brush guard reinstalled.



h9rRzny.jpg




Good to go!


...for now.



nG9yOms.jpg
 

Gpcalero

Well-Known Member
Messages
253
Location
SW Florida
Winch time!

Purchased a new Smittybilt gen3 X2O winch. Decided to go with the 10k version and cancel the 12k since it was back-ordered for 45 days and the 10k fits the 1.5 x weight equation just fine.

I like the wireless feature of this controller to where I don't have to have it plugged in to engage, which is nice.



kPCFDtC.jpg





At the same time, helping out my parents on their '09 H2. It has developed a few oil leaks, and annoyingly... one on the rear main seal as well. So that means separating engine/trans for new seal. So in that case.... EVERYTHING on the engine is getting a new seal. Lot of work but has to be done. This is an low mile and well maintained H2 as well so that's a bummer. Oh well, prepping to come apart she comes.



NTj90hU.jpg





Brush guard & grill removed for winch installation. Height of the new winch is tight, even with the body lift so needed to remove the grill. Don't mind her being a dirty girl at this time lol



2iy9vXO.jpg




Mock fit with the grill put back in place. This is the clearance on the top of the winch with the bottom of the bumper, so no need to relocate the winch control box.



u5JVzIw.jpg




H2 front cover of the 6.2L engine... she's a squirter but not for long



brVUyKz.jpg




Cutting the bolts down as they were a bit too long when going through the Thor Parts bumper. Was hitting the top of the receiving winch end.



E3EUdpi.jpg




Meanwhile, more prep to pull the engine/trans/transfercase out of the front end of the '09 H2. Almost there...



jtWHQR7.jpg




All four bolts cut down and mounted in place. Wiring done, save for the blue line. Was debating on where I wanted to piggy if off of.




LgUDjpY.jpg




Fairlead and line routing. Smittybilt fairlead doesn't look too bad actually... but already looking at alternatives lol



gNmuJzV.jpg




All set! Skid plate remounted, piggied/spliced in the blue DRL line where I wanted, grill and brushguard remounted. The blue wire on the Smittybilt is an accent light on top of the control box. Not really needed but neat. Figured I'd might as well run it since I had it.



tBHkkey.jpg




Back home and lights on. Cannot really tell the accent light is on during the day, so bright out. Can deff see at night and dusk. The LED Smittybilt put in there could be brighter, but doesn't really bother me.



tfiyZ0R.jpg


PQuJokC.jpg




Great having a winch to pull out the Jeeps now 😜
 

Gpcalero

Well-Known Member
Messages
253
Location
SW Florida
'09 H2 wrap up time.



3EoNd5U.jpg




H2 engine now has all new seals & gaskets. Only thing that wasn't touched was the shortblock. Had the ports and valves also walnut blasted to remove the engine build up as well as a complete cleaning of the exterior of the engine/trans/transfercase. Not a drop of oil on her anywhere.



Kv4qgVg.jpg




New engine oil and tranfercase fluid, put back together and finally on the road again! --- Side quest completed & sitting with the 6.2L H3T sibling.



xzYLHjE.jpg




New Bilstein shocks for the rear came in. Not sure how I never hit the old shock reservoir lines, but happy with the 'correct' reservoir outlets now on these units



3Szo3bE.jpg




New style. Still 5160 Bilstein rears, just different reservoir outlet design.



sfs4Ior.jpg




Old vs. new.



mrwYcMp.jpg




Have these set aside for a fellow H3T guy



8DY6O4F.jpg




Last piece of the puzzle - winch cover.



coEeGhn.jpg




And now you're pretty much all caught up to date.... finally.

...for now...
 
Top