Cgalpha08's build

[H3Hummer]

Damn , that looks solid as a Rock

 

[alrock]

That pinion angle looks a little rough in that last picture . It's looking good, can't wait to see it at Sand Hollow.

 

[cgalpha08]

Some more progress.
I've gotten the actual links made, standard 2"x.250 wall dom
Also started working on the frame mount for the coilovers. I've leaned the coilovers back 10 degrees and in some as well. Jury is out of they will clear the frame at full droop, they should if my measurements are correct. Got 1 side mocked up just need ti duplicate it on the other side.

 

[cgalpha08]

Got some good work done this weekend and today.

For the rear axle, got the antiwrap bar bracket and gussets all welded on, just needs brake/hub parts and gears installed snd it's done.

For the front. I completely redid my frame coilover mounts. That meant going into the engine bay. But I am much happier with them versus the version posted above. I also installed the coilovers fir the first time. Overall pleased with how everything is shaping up, just need to get the trackbar done and cycle it a bunch before burning it all in.
This should net me 4-5 inches of up travel.

 

[H3Hummer]

Damn that's gonna be a crazy big truck again.... can't wait to see the finish and how that thing flex

 

[06 H3]

What is the bracket that is bolted to the inner fender behind the shock hoop?

 

[cgalpha08]

What is the bracket that is bolted to the inner fender behind the shock hoop?

I was wondering when someone was going to ask about that.

That is purely for mockup. I wanted each side to be as identical as possible, so this is what I came up with.
I knew where my axle center line was, and I knew that at 9/10 degrees angled back from the coilover axle mount, at roughly 4 inches of up travel, so 24.4 inches, that's where the center of the top of my eyelet would have to be rear ward, and i then verified that was how high it needed to be at full stuff. I marked out on both fenders where the top of the eyelet needed to be, drilled a 1/2 inch hole. I then tacked on a 1/4" tab onto the tubes, which also added a little bit of clearance between the fender wall and tube. The hole in the tab coincides with the center of the top eyelet for the coilover. I then bolted the hoops to each fender, and I could then rotate them each exactly 10 degrees rearward, and mark the lines on the legs where i would need to cut. They are about as close to symmetrical as I can get it without using computer assistance lol There is undoubtedly some variation, I'm sure they aren't exactly the same height or the exact same angle in etc, but its close enough that I don't think anyone would notice unless they were specifically looking for it. When I will the tubes and fully weld the upper mounts, I'll take off the tab, so it wont be there when its all done.

 

[cgalpha08]

Trackbar is tacked together, as is the tie rod. I had to put roughly a 10 degree bend in the trackbar, I used a HF pipe bender, yes I know it's for pipe and def not for .250 wall dom....but it worked. That combined with shaving the diff cover got me the clearance I needed.

I also checked my coilover clearances again, I had to move the hoops a smidge further outboard because at full stuff on pass side and droop on the driver, they contacted the frame, but now I have room.

 

[cgalpha08]

Got the engine hoop figured out, I ran the tube with as minimal of movement of the items in the engine bay. It is un equal in angle, however it does give me room for my psc reservoir. (Ignore the too short tube, more arrives this week)

I also added a third "leg" to the hoops. As well as gussets on each upright as well. Should keep things from moving.

Drag link is also tacked up, runs nice snd parallel to the trackbar. I'll be taking the drag link, tie rod, and trackbar to my buddies shop. He has one of those fancy lathe welders, which will do a much nicer job that me trying to roll it and weld at the same time.

 

[cgalpha08]

Shoutout to CJ (4speed) for welding up the trackbar, draglink, and tierod on the lathe as well as drilling out the sterring arm for tie rod ends. After cycling everything again I determined that at full stuff on both sides, the passenger side was hitting the frame on the trackbar
I was wasting about 1.5 to 2 inches of up travel. So I notched the frame and now i should have 1/2 inch of shaft showing at full stuff, which is fine with me. Hell the tires will probably limit it even more anyway.
The frame is already plated on the outside from the original swap. I'll be adding some more gussets and probably plating the other side as well.

 

[rascole]

Why not wait until the tires are on to decide if they are limiting up travel before cutting the frame? Might save some headache and extra work.

 

[cgalpha08]

Why not wait until the tires are on to decide if they are limiting up travel before cutting the frame? Might save some headache and extra work.

That is a potential issue, however mathematically they should really only rub the front bumper since i pushed the axle further forward, and that is easy enough to trim.

 

[06 H3]

I have always tried to maximize uptravel and let the axle to frame/oil pan/other mechanical crap be the limiter and trim for tires later. It usually helps get you more uptravel.

Looks good Connor. I like the frame notch. I wish I did that instead of flipping the drag link and track bar down an 1in or so.

 

[cgalpha08]

I have always tried to maximize uptravel and let the axle to frame/oil pan/other mechanical crap be the limiter and trim for tires later. It usually helps get you more uptravel.

Looks good Connor. I like the frame notch. I wish I did that instead of flipping the drag link and track bar down an 1in or so.

Its funny you mention the oil pan, because the track bar is very close, i mean like an inch or 2 away from it. I was looking around and saw it and was like huh guess that's a good thing that it doesn't hit haha. The top of the diff tucks nicely into the gap between the motor and frame

 

[cgalpha08]

Small side project. I decided since I had everything apart, I would get rid of the push plastic clips that hold the fender in. I drilled each hole out and added 1/4x20 stainless steel rivnuts and plus nuts for the plastic. I'll now run bolts similar to the one 10mm that's already there to hold the fender in.

 

[rascole]

Is that on the front or rear?

 

[cgalpha08]

Is that on the front or rear?

Front. I haven't decided if I want to do the rears. The liners are still installed so I'm being lazy about that haha

 

[cgalpha08]

Got the third link upper all welded in and gusseted. Maybe overboard on the gussets but better safe than sorry

 

[cgalpha08]

Progressing along, front axle is completely welded, all brackets gusseted, weld washers on everything.

Did one more mockup before welding the frame hoops. This is at full stuff and droop. Everything clears and cycles, should be right around 4.5 inches of up travel. Coilovers at ride height are 10 degrees rearward and 13ish inward.

This is approx where the bumpstops will go as well.

 

[cgalpha08]

Had to figure out where the rear abs sensors were going to go. I picked up a set of gm sensor mounts designed from wfo concepts, originally designed for gm sas swaps with ford axles, however I just needed rhe sensor mount part, since that is largely the same across gm vehicles.....or so I thought. The sensor mount works with the front h3 abs sensors, but not the rear. No big deal really just means I have to buy 2 new front sensors and use them in the rear. You could technically fab up your own mount specifically for the rear abs sensor, but this was just easier. The tone rings are from wfo concepts as well, 55 tooth.
Here is a link to the mounts

GM HD Speed Sensor Bracket for 78-97 Ford Knuckle | WFOConcepts.com

Find GM HD Speed Sensor Bracket for 78-97 Ford Knuckle at WFOConcepts.com

www.wfoconcepts.com

I cut and spliced and welded an extension to the disc brake bracket for the 14b. Installed rhe hub and caliper to make sure I had it positioned in a good spot.

 

[cgalpha08]

And then painted.

 

[cgalpha08]

Rear 14b is in and done minus final torque and a couple brake line fittings and bleeding the brakes.

 

[H3Hummer]

Duuuuuude, what are you gonna set it on? 40" rubbers .... more? You're gonna compete with big foot Can't wait to se it all done and your Bigfoot on the road / trails. Man you're lucky in US... I would just be shoot up by tech inspection here....they don't even let me get in the driveway to say " Hy , i've an appointment today for inspection

 

[cgalpha08]

Duuuuuude, what are you gonna set it on? 40" rubbers .... more? You're gonna compete with big foot Can't wait to se it all done and your Bigfoot on the road / trails. Man you're lucky in US... I would just be shoot up by tech inspection here....they don't even let me get in the driveway to say " Hy , i've an appointment today for inspection

Eventually i will have40s. For now im sticking with the 37s that i have since the tire shop messed one up when they were dismounting it so i have 2 brand new 37s, and 3 that still have 80% tread. hard to justify getting rid of them when they are in such good condition haha

 

[cgalpha08]

Duuuuuude, what are you gonna set it on? 40" rubbers .... more? You're gonna compete with big foot Can't wait to se it all done and your Bigfoot on the road / trails. Man you're lucky in US... I would just be shoot up by tech inspection here....they don't even let me get in the driveway to say " Hy , i've an appointment today for inspection

Eventually i will have40s. For now im sticking with the 37s that i have since the tire shop messed one up when they were dismounting it so i have 2 brand new 37s, and 3 that still have 80% tread. hard to justify getting rid of them when they are in such good condition haha