H3 Oil Change Process (w/ pics)

I did a quick search and didn't see this posted so figured I'd make a thread. If it is a duplicate, please delete.


I decided to take the time and shoot some pictures while I changed my oil this morning....


　

TOOLS NEEDED:


13 MM socket for the oil drain plug


1/2 SAE socket for the skid plate bolts (6 total)


Torque Wrench for the oil drain plug (19ft lbs.)


Oil drain pan, oil filter removal tool & funnel


Shop light (very useful so you can see what your doing)


Shop rags (for any oil spillage)


　




　

PARTS NEEDED:


Oil (6qts.)


Oil Filter





Use the oil and filter of your choice. I prefer Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w-30.


　




I like to run my H3 for a bit before the oil change and let it cool for about an hour. Open your hood and remove your oil cap and pull your oil level dipstick out. I like to do this as a reminder that I have to put oil IN after I drain it and that I have to check the level as well. in addition, it helps to drain the oil faster.





First, crawl under the front the vehicle with your 1/2 SAE socket and locate the skid plate under the oil pan. Loosen the right bolt about 4 full rotations and then move over to the left bolt and completely remove it.


　




　

Now, locate the rear bolts and loosen both about 4 full turns (I personally prefer to simply remove these all the way but it is not needed).


　




　

You will be able to now slide the rear skid plate back and remove it from the vehicle to gain better access to the oil drain plug.





Locate and remove the two front skid plate bolts to gain access to the oil filter.


　

　




　

Now you have better access to the oil drain plug and the oil filter. Using the 13MM socket, loosen the oil drain plug. Make sure you have your oil drain pan under the vehicle at this time. As you can see in the picture below, I use a small piece of cardboard to help divert the oil into the drain pan. It helps by keeping the oil splashing off the crossmember.





Once drained, inspect and if ok...install the oil drain plug and torque to 19ft lbs.





Loosen and remove the oil filter with your oil filter wrench. If your careful, this can also be done without making too much of a mess. There is a small "catch" under it to assist. Make sure you place your oil drain pan under it to catch any oil.


　




　




　

TO BE CONTINUED.............

Now that you have the oil drained, the oil drain plug in and torqued, the oil filter removed and all spillage cleaned up....it is time to install the oil filter. Check to make sure the oil gasket didn't seperate from the oil filter and stick to the oil sending unit (99% of the time it comes off with the old filter but it is good practice to check).


　

I like to avoid a dry start to I fill up my new oil filter with the new oil about 3/4 of the way. Also, don't forget to coat the rubber gasket on your new filter with some oil to help it seal.


　




　

Ok install the new filter and get it as tight as you can by hand, that is enough. After you have installed the new filter and you're sure the drain plug is back in, put in some fresh oil. My I5 takes 6qts of 5w-30 oil.


　




　

Once filled, remove the funnel and put the oil fill cap back on. Remove the oil drain pan from under the vehicle and push it off to the side.


　




Before putting the skid plates back on, start the vehicle up and make sure you don't have any leaks. Also, make sure your oil light is not on and/or goes off. If everything is ok, shut it off and install the skid plates in reverse order of removal.


Make sure the vehicle is level and check the oil dipstick to make sure you have enough oil.


　




The oil mark should be at the "F" bar. If not, add as needed. It is always easier to add in small amounts rather than overfill and have to pull the oil drain plug again.


Don't forget to reset your Oil Change Life on the DIC.





Remember to properly dispose of the old oil. All aumotive repair garages and stores take it for free.


This is just a general process/guide. I am sure others have their ways of doing it and/or better tips. If so, please add to this thread.


I have hosted these pictures on a public storage site so they should be around for a long time.


Hopefully, this thread helps others do their own oil changes......

Nice write up:thumbs:. I can't see any of the pics though.

one thing I noticed

I like to avoid a dry start to I fill up my new oil filter with the new oil about 3/4 of the way.

Click to expand...

only problem with that is the oil you put in the filter does not get filtered. being its new oil straight out the bottle it "should" be ok but you never know


What I do, I do not remove the skid plate I use a piece of cardboard and shape it so it sit under the drain plug and out over the pan. I have to use that method on my D-max so I just use on the 3 also. Works for me

I can see all the pics???? huh. I check on three different browsers and on my phone. Should be good. You may have to wait for your DNS server to update so you can see them? Are you still in the sandbox or back home?

Can someone else confirm on the pics?


Mudiak - I see your point but what is the difference between putting NEW unfiltered oil in the filter vs. the engine? On a oil change, we are putting the same new oil in the engine. It's pretty much the same thing initially isn't it? I rather avoid a dry startup, as that is worst on the engine.

Nice write up. Pictures are showing up fine for me.

Still in the sandbox it might be Saudi internet not allowing me to see them.

Thats true on the new oil. i don't know Just strectching it here but when you add the oil through the filler it pretty much goes through the biggest passages in the motor straight to the oil pan from the filter is when it get to all the smaller tigher areas first.

I don't know just wana argue:mock:

Thanks -- great write up w/excellent pics! Timely for me cuz I'm feeling the urge to attempt to do this in the near future... :huh:

05Mudiak said:

Still in the sandbox it might be Saudi internet not allowing me to see them.

Thats true on the new oil. i don't know Just strectching it here but when you add the oil through the filler it pretty much goes through the biggest passages in the motor straight to the oil pan from the filter is when it get to all the smaller tigher areas first.

I don't know just wana argue:mock:

Click to expand...

HAHAHA.....but wait, your still putting unfiltered oil in all those passages. What if there is a chuck of brownie in the new Mobil 1 container Muhahahaha. That damn refiner should not be eating his lunch while working!! Damn him!

Very helpful write up, I've had my H3 for five months now and it was finally time to change the oil. I read this write up before I changed the oil and it helped a ton, especially the cardboard idea. Thanks :thumbs:

Moab Chevy...$29.95 their oil and filter....$14.99 my oil and filter:giggle:

Curious........... I don't know if it is a LHD / RHD thing but there is no way I can get to the oil filter as easy as this picture shows.

I will have to check next time I do it but from memory it was a PIA to undo the filter & get it out of its location. (& there is no way any oil is staying in the filter when I get it out or put it in)

CNY750Rider said:

　

Click to expand...

That looks like a I-5 with the skid plates removed.

Curious to see what you have to deal with on your RHD build.

Oil flows from outside to inside on conventional oil filters. Adding oil to eliminate "dry start" is a recommended practice and filling the filter from the perimeter holes rather than the center will allow oil to flow through the filter media before entering engine oil galley.

So what are everyone's thoughts about using a full synthetic in a "high mileage" engine. Going to change the oil tomorrow and would like to use synthetic but the 3 has around 90,000 miles on it and I've read about it causing leaks but I've also read that that is an old myth from the 70's. thoughts?

MYTH. I changed my H3 over at 125K from GM Dino to synthetic without any problems. I changed the oil today at 141313 and all is well. If you have leaks the before, you'll have leaks after.

4 yrs is a long time, any chance of getting copies of the images ? like to keep it for myself when i do my first oil change .