Steering Box Installatin Questions

Hey guys, I finally bought another steering box to replace the messed up one. I should be getting it in about 2 days or so and had a few questions prior to installing it. Forgive me if these seem like dumb questions but I've never done this before and I don't claim to be a top mechanic haha

So, as we know my truck is unique and built quite weird in using a steering box from a 86-88 toyota 4runner. As far as I know it shouldn't be a difficult job.

-Unscrew the two hoses from the top of the box
-unbolt it from the frame
-unbolt the steering shaft from the box
-Install new box and reconnect the hoses and steering shaft and replace fluids?

Again, I've never done this and have no idea if the above steps are correct, so if anyone has any advice or steps I'd really appreciate any help I can get. If we need some pictures I can definitely get some taken and posted up asap.

Thanks for your help everyone!

I think a few pictures would help. There are certainly some people that can help you here but pics will go a long way for everyone.

haha thanks solar!

Thats how i did a friends sas 4 runner. Leave the brake fluid cap off and cycle the steering back and forth with fluid to get the air bubbles out. Should be good after that. Since its out you can drill and tap the box then plug the holes for ram assist later on. Pretty easy job.

From what it looks like, are the circled parts all I need to unbolt?

Damn....I can't get over that hacked-up frame. You should consider re-doing that mess with a different box. I've been playin around with my solid axle swap for about 4-months now, and I've tried several different boxes. I have settled on a Nissan Xterra unit...its the same thing as an early Bronco "Delphi" box. It fits really well and doesn't require you to butcher the frame rail. It mounts very similar to yours except it sits "level" (not at an angle). The sector shaft appears to be longer than your Toyota box, and the stock Xterra pitman arm hangs at the perfect height. I'll post up some pics later tonight.

Swapping your box is pretty simple. In addition to the yellow circled stuff...you'll have to swap that gigantic pitman arm onto your new box. Normally you would need a pitman arm puller, and perhaps an impact gun....but due to the size of that thing...all bets are off. You might just have to wail on it with a BFH.

4speedfunk said:

Damn....I can't get over that hacked-up frame. You should consider re-doing that mess with a different box. I've been playin around with my solid axle swap for about 4-months now, and I've tried several different boxes. I have settled on a Nissan Xterra unit...its the same thing as an early Bronco "Delphi" box. It fits really well and doesn't require you to butcher the frame rail. It mounts very similar to yours except it sits "level" (not at an angle). The sector shaft appears to be longer than your Toyota box, and the stock Xterra pitman arm hangs at the perfect height. I'll post up some pics later tonight.

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I agree with CJ that the steering box setup should be redone and the frame reboxed and filled in.

08SolarFlareH3 said:

I agree with CJ that the steering box setup should be redone and the frame reboxed and filled in.

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X3. You're going to start from scratch with the new box. You might as well clean it up and do it right.


"Ex Umbris Venimus"

Sent from my iPhone

I really wish I could guys. I don't have the knowledge or funds to do something like a complete steering change. I'm not wheeling or anything so as long as my steering works for now I should be okay. I did just get another well paying job so once money builds up I may consider it. At the same time I don't want to take it to an off-road shop and pay an arm and a leg to have it changed. I really wish one of you guys lived here, it would definitely increase my confidence in doing something like that.

07C...I would totally hook you up, if we were closer. I got a nice shop...AC, Heat, Air, Plasma cutter, Welder, Fridge (w/cold beer). What you're wanting to do is not a "huge expensive" mod but, I understand. I would love to take a good, long look at your truck...I've been aware of the "white elephant" for a year before you bought it. I hope you understand how different and special your truck is. Somebody had enough balls to do the SAS...and no matter how funky it might be, my hats off to whomever did it.

I promise some photos this weekend. Lots goin on around here.

I appreciate it funk, I would be down for a road trip if it's not too far. I won't lie, I don't know a whole lot about vehicles, definitely offroad fabrication, but I'm willing to learn and want to get things done the right way. I have no problem with anyone looking at the truck if they ask, chances are they can tell me about something I don't know. I do understand my truck is different, especially after joining the boards and I'm pretty excited to have a unique vehicle. From what I know about SAS, which is pretty much nothing, I can see that mine is definitely done strangely in comparison to the higher end swaps.

I don't want to come off as being stubborn or cheap when it comes to my vehicle/safety, but it is something that I cant even pretend to know about. I do trust everyone and their ideas/knowledge but cannot begin a project like this without tons of hands on guidance. What I do know about fabrication is that the shops around here charge a lot for work like this. Yes, it is worth it to get proper fabs done safely, but I know a lot of you guys do your own work which I admire.

I'm always open to ideas, and will do as much as I can with my current funds (which will soon be increasing drastically) and my level of knowledge which I hope to increase as I learn more about my truck.

07Custom said:

View attachment 4697

From what it looks like, are the circled parts all I need to unbolt?

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You have everything circled that needs to come off.
If you don't have some tubing wrenches you should get some.They are recommended for the power steering lines.
Tie the steering wheel so that it can not spin freely
Remove the drag link from your pitman arm
Remove the steering shaft from the steering box
Loosen the power steering lines before unbolting the box from the frame.
Unbolt box from frame
Remove power steering lines form box
Remove box from vehicle
Remove pitman arm from the steering shaft with a pitman arm puller.Most auto parts stores have loaners
Install in reverse order
Once everything is installed and tight.Jack up the front tires so that they are off the ground
Remove power steering cap "Not your Brake fluid cap'
Fill reservoir With the"'Clear Power Steering Fluid" not red
Do not start the truck yet
Untie the steering wheel
Cycle your steering slowly from lock to lock several times checking fluid level and adding if necessary - several times
You can now start your truck.
Cycle steering from lock to lock several more times.
Check fluid level
Clean up and have a beer:cheers:

You can also pick up a repair manual for a toyota truck

As others have stated
You need to have your frame and steering fixed as soon as you can afford it.

Pretty awesome guide! Thank you. I can't repeat myself enough when I say I need one of you guys here to help with the more intricate stuff. Although there is no real way to tell how much it would cost, but does anyone have an estimate as to how much it would cost to have the frame fixed and steering changed up?

You got me power steering cap! Lol

Okay...Here's what I'm running. This is a Nissan Xterra box (Gen I...99-04). As you can see its very compact, and from what I've heard...very strong. This box is the same casting as the Bronco upgrade Delphi box....it even says Delphi on it.

PITMAN ARM...
The Nissan sector shaft uses a funky spline arrangement that I think is special to asian-import stuff. Ford, Jeep, and Saginaw pitmans will not bolt-on to it, so you have to use a Nissan pitman arm or swap out the sector shaft to the Ford spline. Also, I've been told that some Toyota pitmans share the same splines as the Nissan but...I have no proof of this. If all else fails...there are a few Nissan offroad shops that offer different pitman offsets and such. I'm going to ream a stock Xterra arm out to fit a GM 1-ton DRE. If it gets thin on me...I'll reinforce it with a 1/4" steel wrap. Problem solved.

INPUT SHAFT...
The Nissan input shaft is round and splined and uses a pinchbolt...unlike the H3 steering rack which uses two "flats" and a pinchbolt. Ironically...the stock H3 intermediate shaft damn near plugs right on to the Nissan box! In fact...you might be able to simply grind flats onto the Nissan input shaft, and be done with it. However, I'm choosing to use a Nissan intermediate shaft because I want the ability to make small adjustments using the splines (to get my steering wheel perfectly centered)....something that cannot be done with "flats". I'm fairly certain the H3 steering column has a sensor that senses "yaw angle" and sends it to the VSS, so correct steering wheel indexing is critical. One time I bent the hell out of my steering system, and got a VSS light...I think it was due to the wheel being so far off center.

MOUNTING...
This H3 frame is somewhat flemsy and the "steering box mounting area" in particular, is made intentionally weak (collision crumple zone), so you'll want to add some plates and fully box it. This is what concerns me about hack-job on 07Custom's frame rail...hopefully, it has been reinforced. The (4) mounting holes of the Nissan box fit perfectly...like it was made for the H3 frame. You'll need to cut away part of the radiator support and the plastic inner fender to mount the box as far forward as you can....right up against the LF body mount. You'll also have to relocate the T-block for the brake lines. Thats about it...we'll see how it works soon enough...

View attachment 4725View attachment 4726View attachment 4727

That's a good setup. The pics are dark, but I got the idea. My rail has definitely been reinforced. There's a 3/8 or 1/2" steel plate welded over the top of the rail as well as one on the inside of the rail. The part that was cut out on bottom has been re-boxed as well. It seems really reinforced. There isn't any cracking of paint or strange looking parts from excessive flexing so I think it's holding up pretty decent.

that looks like a good simple way to have the steering setup 4speed. Are you concerned with it being outboard vs. inboard? easier for rocks and crap to get to it?

I mocked up my steering with a JK box, a CJ box, and a Bronco box...all three have their advantages but, I felt the Nissan (Bronco) was the best. Interference with the radiator was a big problem and mounting to the outside of the frame rail saved me a bunch of headaches. There's a guy on 355nation.com that is doing a leaf spring SAS on a Colorado...and he is using a CJ box. I tried it and found that it hung down very low. The JK box seems to fit nicely but it also hits the lower radiator hose, plus...there seems to be a lot of chat about JK boxes being "not so great". So...I ended up with the Nissan. Also...the input shaft seems to be in better alignment with the H3 steering colum, than the other two boxes. I will be adjusting the stops on the Dana 44 knuckles to limit the turning radius. This is due to the tires hittng the lower control arms, and not due to the outboard box location....plenty of tire clearance. Ratio is 3.7 turns lock-to-lock. Its un-proven at this time but, I will give a full-report after I get stuff up and running.