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MoveBumpers DIY kit review

derian06

derian06

Red Rockett
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1,866
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Madison, AL
Woodtick said:
Your first pass doesn't look to bad. Run a pass on both sides of your first pass. Then put your cap pass on top,wire wheel in between.
Click to expand...

In those picture I had a root pass, wire wheel, another pass, wire wheel, then I had a third pass and I cleaned it with the wire wheel.
 
Scarsman

Scarsman

Sponsor
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1,561
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Monroe, WA
As he said, if you're going to run multiple passes, run one pass down the seam, then one down each side of that, focused into where the toe of the first bead meets the plate. Then I would run over the 1st bead, filling in between the 2nd and 3rd welds. It kind of looks like you ran your passes all stacked on top of each other.

Make sure you chip and wire wheel all the slag away between passes. Also, you don't want to weave too wide with 7018. Always make sure you are staying in the puddle. You never want to run over any cooled slag or you'll get porosity.
 
Scarsman

Scarsman

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derian06 said:
855e1e3fae594a95a25800c4d57b9b19.jpg
Click to expand...

At the left side of this picture, that is a pretty big gap on your fit up. I would really try to close that up before welding.
 
Woodtick

Woodtick

Well-Known Member
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801
Location
Ilanoid, UP MI
You are doing a great job,we are just trying to give you pointers. Weld two pieces of plate in a "t" . Cut that "t" in half. If you can see gaps,cracks ect,it's a bad weld. I live in the X-ray world. I can see a bad weld from 10 feet away. I don't weld at work,I'm not good enough. No bull ****.lol
 
derian06

derian06

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Location
Madison, AL
Scarsman said:
At the left side of this picture, that is a pretty big gap on your fit up. I would really try to close that up before welding.
Click to expand...

I ended up cutting some of the plate from the D ring holes and used that to fill the gap.
334604b9dc42d2e0e3019a6d5309bb07.jpg
there is enough metal in those plates to cut triangles that fit on the sides of the mounting plates, I think I'll do that as well. My biggest problem right now is my danm welder overheating so much.

A pic of how it looks without the bullbar.
dc91a14087f7eb410e0ed1363eb3ae68.jpg
 
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Scarsman

Scarsman

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Monroe, WA
Yes, the joy of a small welder! Short duty cycles. Although, that can be a blessing in disguise, by forcing you to go slower and not get things to hot. It's really easy to get excited on projects like that and just weld things up as fast as you can, but that can be bad. All the heat can cause warping. And if your structure is angular enough to not warp, then you can be putting a tremendous amount of stored stress into the metal. The stress is invisible, and it can look great, but eventually it can crack and fail. Especially on something like a bumper that will get winched and pulled on.

Great idea on gusseting the mounts. I'm actually surprised they didn't design it that way. That will make a huge difference in the strength of the mounts.

And like Woodtick said, we're just trying to help you do the best you can! Hope you don't think we're dogging on you! It's always cool to do your own stuff!
 
Panzer07

Panzer07

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2,548
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Ontario, CA
I have mix feeling abut this bumper but I think it looks right can only wait to see it all done and with its paint


Torres
 
derian06

derian06

Red Rockett
Messages
1,866
Location
Madison, AL
Scarsman said:
Yes, the joy of a small welder! Short duty cycles. Although, that can be a blessing in disguise, by forcing you to go slower and not get things to hot. It's really easy to get excited on projects like that and just weld things up as fast as you can, but that can be bad. All the heat can cause warping. And if your structure is angular enough to not warp, then you can be putting a tremendous amount of stored stress into the metal. The stress is invisible, and it can look great, but eventually it can crack and fail. Especially on something like a bumper that will get winched and pulled on.

Great idea on gusseting the mounts. I'm actually surprised they didn't design it that way. That will make a huge difference in the strength of the mounts.

And like Woodtick said, we're just trying to help you do the best you can! Hope you don't think we're dogging on you! It's always cool to do your own stuff!
Click to expand...

I don't mind it at all, being a beginner welder I could use all the advice y'all can give. Fabricating is a great hobby.
 
derian06

derian06

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Location
Madison, AL
Done for tonight, all thats left is welding on the shackle mounts, bull bar, and the triangular pieces that i'm welding onto the mounts. Here is how it sits now
fa19da7cab455e4c1cf835ccafd25de6.jpg
4bb9193de218c827d8ab8c6a2e9b1ba2.jpg
bfb2f16cc9fb6edf2d4da8a04783a5af.jpg
e071169deea0c61ea956b61e54f8b6e6.jpg
85a22f941587642a620e4ff554f3fab4.jpg
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4b84f723794358a3e8c49d20fe0cd2df.jpg
heres where i'll add the triangular pieces
8733d6b3ad59332fc8d3a85ce7e49f04.jpg
for 08+ models there was a cross bar that was added to the frame, the bumper can't fit properly with it bolted on. So I unbolted it and cut it in half and cut the mounts off of it. I'm going to use the bars to add to the sides of the bull bar.
 
4speedfunk

4speedfunk

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4,212
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Tardville
So is this only bolted to the truck via the plates on the ends of the frame?

If so....it's not enough. H3 frame rails are designed to collapse. You should add some additional straps to bolt-up to the rear bumper mounts (near the body biscuits on each side). This will triangulate the mounting and keep you from bending the ends of the frame during a hard pull. ARB, THORparts, Boulder Accessories, Predator, and DeFelice bumpers....all utilize the rear mounts for this reason.
 
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derian06

derian06

Red Rockett
Messages
1,866
Location
Madison, AL
4speedfunk said:
So is this only bolted to the truck via the plates on the ends of the frame?

If so....it's not enough. H3 frame rails are designed to collapse. You should add some additional straps to bolt-up to the rear bumper mounts (near the body biscuits on each side). This will triangulate the mounting and keep you from bending the ends of the frame during a hard pull. ARB, THORparts, Boulder Accessories, Predator, and DeFelice bumpers....all utilize the rear mounts for this reason.
Click to expand...

Do you have any pictures? Its hard to visualize.

But i'm thinking if the problem is the ends I'll beef them up with some 1/2" steel and a cross bar in between.
 
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derian06

derian06

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Madison, AL
Highatop said:
That does look good. Nice job so far. What are your plans for the skid plate...
Click to expand...

No idea yet, i'm thinking the 07 skid will fit nicely because it's flat vs the 08+ skid which had groves and ripples on it. But i'll probably just drill holes and bolt it up or weld it to the bumper some other time. I'm going to have to mess up the paint to weld on my winch mount whenever I get my winch.
 
derian06

derian06

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Location
Madison, AL
So an over all review of the process and the bumper.

First of all the price wasn't bad at all, 645$ shipped to my door pre runner styler with added winch mount.

Getting the bumper together wasn't too hard, but you'll need an extra set of hands so you can tack everything in place properly. The "step by step instructions" are god awful by the way, but it isn't that hard to figure out. Getting the stock skid on shouldn't be too much of a challenge, but there is not pre made holes for it. Also you're going to have to buy smaller bolts to replace the one large bolt on the factory D-ring. I mean if a 16 year old in his dads garage can do it i'm sure anyone else can.

Strength will have to be determined when I get my winch, but 4speed made the comment that it may bend the frame rails during a hard pull.

I did not notice any drop of the front end due to the weight, but I can take measurements tomorrow. It's light enough to pickup and move around by my self. But it may be a bit harder for others.

The overall look of the bumper is kick ass to me. I'm pretty pleased with everything, and their customer service was fantastic. I'd recommend this DIY bumper to anyone.
 
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