ever since I put the beadlocks on my '40, it's been a wandering beast. Part of the issue is it doesn't track the same in corners based upon steering input. Without going into the why, did the panhard bar the traditional way - where it parallels the steering arm. At the time of the build, I didn't think I had enough clearance to run the cross steer arm to a high-steer mount. Because of that both the steering cross shaft and the panhard bar are at quite an angle to the axle. This is the fix of that. A panhard bar should be parallel with the axle - unless there's a compelling reason not to. If it isn't, some call it bump steer (it's not) but you get steering that doesn't actually turn at the same angle when turning. It's especially annoying at highway speeds. Basically, the front end moves and either understeers or oversteers depending on the lean of the truck. Of course, with all good things, there's a but. putting the panhard parallel to the axle, especially on lifted trucks can actually decrease the amount of steering angle you get when the rig is crossed up. On top of that, the steering wheel moves while the tires go straight. Again, they call it bump steer, but it's actually suspension induced steering angle. The tires track straight but the steering wheel moves. In bump steer, the tires start oscillating and that is transmitted to the steering wheel. Given this things desire to follow ruts, I'm going to risk some steering angle to get it to drive 80 mph without fear.
I bought a ruffstuff bracket that goes to the outside of the frame. when this is done, those tabs will attach to the inside
I like the scallops - will make my '40 all high-class
Here is where it will hang, only 180 degrees from its current space....
In random other news, I got a spare this weekend
anyway, this is a coming attraction - I'm continuing on with my Wanderer Suburban build.... I was expecting hubs today but this showed up instead.