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FJ4overland

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
Last night I started setting up the rear gears,


measuring for shims



Sprayed the KBS today - it went on pretty well, and going to get a larger-nozzle gun was the right choice - I blew this on with a 1.8 nozzle ($16.00 at HF)



round 1 the coating


then a top coat




eventually it will end up a factory matte finish - but I almost ran out of time to spray this - KBS recommends low humidity and no rain. Tomorrow it's supposed to rain, thus killing our great 35% humidity we have today.
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
started today by replacing the cad plated bolts with stainless ones


then bolting it together, but this time for real




and for those who are curious how much I took out of the front axle

(driver's side)

passenger side


what the cross brace looks like when apart


and now the motor is in


 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
bit of paint and some glue....

painted


glued the front diff cover on so I could put the steering on tomorrow, and got the hubs on, the big thing was taking the upper spring out of the coil overs to get it closer to ride-height



it seems way too light, but the 300/200 springs will probably end up being 200/150... that said, I'm not driving it like this, but rather getting the ride height set so that when I get it all together, I can weigh it and get the right springs
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA


presents.... anyone still wonder why the steering box is still blue?



a good idea, but no, too tall


too short



okay, I don't get it, why is there so much space there?


time to start on the t-case




​of course, that was a dead stop because I printed out the directions and stored them in a safe place....
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
moving along
adapter off


ugly... but not rusty...


dagnabit... now that's ugly and must be replaced




if the shims hadn't been trashed, I'd have reused these... for those who count - there must be 48 of these.


.... 42 - the answer to life, the universe and everything, but not the right answer for Dana 300s... I think I found 5 of the missing 6.




if you get lucky, you don't have to pull the lower gears out


the new bits


and yes, this fought me, but I won




anyway, cleaned the case up, I'll paint it tomorrow and hopefully have the instructions so I can put the upper half back together. I'll be waiting for the intermediate shaft to arrive; but I bet that's at least a week out. Which is good, I need to re-order a seal and do a bit of cleanup on the transmission....

​ttfn.
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
back to the transfer case


new output shaft


bearing pressed on the other side


much short = happier driveshaft angles


still awaiting the mid-shaft replacement, but at least it's mostly together and painted now.


along with the adapter


the back to the rear end


now with spring mounts and shock mounts


I may make an executive decision and let the truck be 3" over stock height so that I don't have to cut holes in the floor for the shocks


 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
carrying on
I think these are going to look good... dually marker lights


LED tail lights - but not sure where yet



then an O2 sensor install


and the start of the exhaust



ordered the cats and mufflers (cats aren't required, but it makes wheeling so much more enjoyable since heavy fuel in the exhaust gives me a migraine)....

then onto the body.... should have most of the running gear minus axles and, driveshafts done in the next week or so...
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
a bit of bouncing about tonight. I'm kind of waiting for parts (especially a seal) - so I did whatever I figured needed doing
first was weld the extensions together


I've been robbing parts from the Buick - but it makes no sense to simply sit on the parts for another 5 years


I ordered new lines and I'll have to adapt to the Scout box (7/16 fitting rather then 18 mm).... however, everything from the pump is metric so it won't be that hard to do. I also have to put another return into the power steering pump.... easy enough. I want brakes, and hydraboost will give me solid brakes - especially with 4 wheel disk brakes
adapted the pedals


then I started planning the brake lines and putting the various sensors on the motor for EFI and the electronic dash

 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
Parts, not the right parts, but parts and I made them work

I got to see this a lot - I would have updated last night but there was no update since I got to see this again today


cleanup a bit


problem 1
that slot is in the wrong spot AND it doesn't have an o-ring - fortunately, I got to take it back apart and fix that today


adapter back in place


gear in place, if you look closely on your left, you'll see a copper colored shim...last night, after I had it all together, I spun the input and it hung up. I pulled it apart, and one shim hadn't stayed in place when I put it together.... thus, I got to see the first empty picture again today.


mufflers and cats came today


1st fitting


better fitting


now with brace


 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
so I didn't get much done today. beside picking up the Land Rover, installing a new microwave, and installing a drain on a water container the '40 got ignored....ish

seat base

I'm going to remove the electronics and simply use a key.

but of course to install that I need to take advantage of unexpected nice weather and haul the shell to get sand blasted


and pull the transmission from the frame so I can do some finish work on the clutch, etc


pull the tailshaft off


nothing looks broken


basically I need to hone out the seal area a bit more to get a seal installed


water jug


who knew that 30 ton presses make excellent clamps too?


 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
If you are of a sensitive nature... these pictures are NSFW!!!!!
This goes doubly true if you like other netizens who say "ahoy matey"....especially those ones with such delicate constitution

DO NOT ENTER!

There will be NUDITY

my FJ40 is NAKED!



and other then showing a bit much underside

isn't too bad... I was concerned after digging 1/4" of bondo out of the rear corner

that said, I may have to find a fender solution







and I started welding holes tonight.... I think I'll keep the dehumidifier running in the shop and leave it naked while I fill all its holes
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
Today has been a nightmare, and tonight's work wasn't any better
I got the clutch on


and think I'm going to go with a pull-style hydraulic clutch..


then the problems started. So I first started with the hydraulic slave cylinder. I think I figured out why I has having so much trouble in my Corvette - the outlets I think were hitting on the housing - but only occasionally (hanging up on ribs).... I noticed it on here... so I spent plenty of time putzing about trying to make that work. Then went to the throwout style - and ran into another problem, I thought I drove the bushing in far enough (mind you, this was the 2nd bushing - yesterday I got reminded that the NAPA SKF version is too big and won't go in - I had this problem on the Corvette too)... this time, I though I hit it to bottom (felt like) but then dismissed the "why is it out a bit?"

and all the shops I use for work are busy - which is good because it means they do good work; but aren't so good about getting the work done as fast as promised (or I'd like)... oh well.
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
my wench arrived


just enough room to do a pull-style hydraulic clutch


the correct sensor arrived (e-speedo)


and the drive train is in....


and my wiring arrived for the TBI - what a helpful group of people (Howells)
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
I know this doesn't seem to show much, but actually, it's a big step


it means the pinion is in permanently and I can measure for driveshafts and axles (ordered the axles on Friday, will order the driveshafts on Monday)
so the rear springs from a rubicon are a bit soft, but the front springs seem to be pretty close


you'll note my multi-colored zip ties which hold the shocks in place


so this picture is more for the driveshaft folks, but the driveshaft is 19 1/2" long, it has a 23* angle (max 33*) but the pinion and the output are 8* opposite each other which brings the actually degree difference to a reasonable 16* (for a short wheelbase 4x4, that's doing pretty good).



I'll pull the rear differential out in the next day or two and paint it.... gotta be pretty too


front hp 44.... the fronts are 1310 u-joints... I figure that's the cheap fuse in the system - I may have to scallop the cross member for clearance - if I do, I'll add a mid-hoop just so bad things don't happen if the u-joint breaks



twin stick too


now we're getting somewhere



no picture of the first of the brackets welded in place - but it is and I have to fab a couple inner brackets then paint the weld away

on to the bare metal - spray with phosphoric acid


then rinse


same with the hood


I also got onto removing the cowl vent... I figure I'll get that done, ground down, then cut the dash and dowse it all with epoxy primer... maybe tomorrow after work I'll get the rear differential painted and the hood too. The side panels need to be cut and I'm putting different markers in them so there's a bit of fab before they get primered, the tailgate is going to be a one-piece that hinges at the bottom with a ladder attached to it that will double as a molle panel
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
continuing from yesterday

I ordered the driveshafts - so that should be the last of the big parts.... now the nickel and dime crap (like window seals and such)
shock mounts (at least half of them)


and the other half in their rough form


epoxy primered the hood

and the fillers (and had a bit of trouble with it - I shouldn't have etched the metal)


the firewall I didn't etch, I just blew the paint on.... it went on beautifully


live and learn - the etched parts still aren't dry to the touch, the firewall is though it was last painted

and I finished filling the hole in the cowl
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
thanks

brackets


brackets installed



sway bar


starting on the clutch


turn the bar around the other way


GM A-bodies have a sway bar attached to the lower control arm that works pretty well - thus, copying what they did is the idea behind this



flexy check for clearances


full compression


weld on clevis attachment points


burn finger.... time for new welding gloves (ouch)

 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
FJ40 standing on its end


now with primer


and inside too


so the axle was a bit long, and Nitro suggested shortening it. It's close... I admit being concerned about the length of spline engagement but I don't do axles for a living and these have a lifetime warranty...



you can see where the seal is now with the shortened shaft


next up, finishing up the underside so I can mount it back on the frame (and gain some room back)


on the lower ball joint, I had to clearance a bit


 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,212
Location
Tardville
Damn. Tough break on the axle shaft. I keep Mr. N's axle shaft chart on hand at all times. Then I adjust the housing accordingly so custom shafts are never needed. The D44 has been made in so many widths, that you can pretty much chop them to any width in 1/2" increments, and then use the appropriate shafts from the chart.
A lathe would be nice to cut a longer seal journal....those can be pesky if it's not completely concentric. At least you didn't have to cut a new C-clip groove!
 
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