FJ4overland

SuperBuickGuy · Aug 24, 2015

the seal is on the seal surface - I could even "adjust" it a bit more and be okay.

SuperBuickGuy · Aug 24, 2015

gratuitous shop shot

started working on the tub - roll bar backing plates

SuperBuickGuy · Aug 25, 2015

My goal is to have this done by the end of October.... It could happen, but it's not going to happen. Body work takes time, and I'm not going to rush it. I talked to a guy who has done body and paint for me - if you're having trouble getting them to do it your way at the start..... yeah, I'll be doing most of it myself. I may take the truck to him for final paint, but between his lack of experience with the various coatings I'm using and being certain about things I know are opinion (which are "fact" because it's easier for him to do)... why give myself the headache, I hate arguing with people more than I hate bodywork.

SuperBuickGuy · Aug 25, 2015

didn't get much done on the '40 tonight... between unsticking the bobcat for the ten billionth time, doing an oil change on the H3, fixing the remote for the winch (not sure I accomplished that)... I ran out of time

SuperBuickGuy · Aug 26, 2015

the joy of working by oneself

don't try this at home folks

obviously, from my last posts, I had to flip the tub for this round of test-fitting

and viola

to simulate action, I blur the background... and i have no idea how I managed this with my point-n-shoot camera

so there is a slight issue - this cross member should be 1/4" off the frame....

and it appears my guess was too low - actually, it wasn't - I was hoping it'd be tucked up further.... so it appears plan B is going to happen (cut and brace the body mount then run the exhaust further up)

the offending brace - the problem is that's also like a major mount for the roll cage - so it needs to be as stout as now...

I'll take lucky over good every day - I lucked out on the O2 sensor

SuperBuickGuy · Aug 27, 2015

tonight's fun (who am I kidding, I hate grinding)

make some covers and it's good to go

dang, it almost looks like I know what I'm doing with that safe

gratuitous shots

now that the body is close to its mounts... time to do the front fenders

JPaul · Aug 28, 2015

It's looking really good, I can't wait to see it put all together!

SuperBuickGuy · Aug 29, 2015

JPaul said:
It's looking really good, I can't wait to see it put all together!

me either :giggle:

my goal was drive it in October.... I'm getting pretty sure that isn't going to happen. Every weekend in October is gone as is all but one weekend in November. Subtract two weekends in September and I'll be lucky to have it done by April.

SuperBuickGuy · Aug 30, 2015

I think this is the most body panels I've had on the vehicle yet (and yep, will still blow it apart again)

those bits from the last pictures... I'm sure I make people dizzy because I flit from one project to another... there is, at times, method to the madness - other times, I've got a case of the don'twannas and simply do something else. The fenders... yeah, don't feel like dealing with the exhaust - so here it goes

in a lower position

I think the issue with this position is it will hit a tire at full compression

boy, I need to square up the rear axle

starting to get an idea of where - I pulled it outside to get a better perspective on where to mount the fenders

one thing I am sure, I won't be using the mounting points they designed into these fenders - the mounting holes are behind the coil-over

SuperBuickGuy · Aug 31, 2015

corner work

I'm still not inspired on these yet - so no real progress on them

SuperBuickGuy · Sep 1, 2015

I swear the scaffolding takes more time then everything else

one side mostly permanent now to mirror

and mirror happened

it would be a lot easier, I suppose, if I had leveled the truck first... meh, can't get too bored doing this stuff (kidding)

SuperBuickGuy · Sep 2, 2015

tonights saga begins with hubs

dana 60 hubs

yep, front axle shaft diameter is dana 60 sized... just not dana 60 hang-down on the pumpkin

35 spline double-splined axles for the rear. I think I can safely say that these won't be what breaks

I wish Nitro Gear had engraved their logo on the ends - normally, I don't do advertising - they really have helped out on this project

the axles are cut-to-fit, so I need to trim 1/2" off and all will be well

and what took all my time tonight and will again tomorrow night

and a brace... I had to move the bracket back - it's meant to attach to where the stock fenders attach, however, that's exactly where the coil over resides... oh well, if I was afraid of fabrication I'd hang out on a 4x4 site and piss and moan about everyone else's project

and sheet metal is where I stopped

SuperBuickGuy · Sep 2, 2015

so this is funny, to me.... look at this picture again

you get bonus points if you notice the radiator isn't level... I leveled the grill as part of tonight's work, and looked at the front and said "hey, wait a minute"... oh well, I also have to move it back towards the motor (lean it back) so the hood doesn't hit it... I wish I was as good as those guys on TV, *shrugs*

JPaul · Sep 2, 2015

So wait, which part IS level?? the radiator or the body? The body is what looks to be off camber to me compared to the background/foreground/tires..

SuperBuickGuy · Sep 3, 2015

nothing in the picture, the radiator simply goes the opposite way - what makes me laugh is the legs are the same height and my mistake was presuming the holes on the radiator (for mounting) were on the same plane.

SuperBuickGuy · Sep 3, 2015

now I have front axles too!

with splines

time to do the time-consuming work on the fenders...

and that's where it stopped - still need to fit the sheet metal to side #1 then onto side two

SuperBuickGuy · Sep 7, 2015

Been distracted with other things but got a few things done on this

got the sheet metal on, ish

Just a bit short on one end

the finished(ish) product

so time to see compression and such stuff

looks like this fender fits

I really need to get on bolting the spring in because it's pretty annoying to watch it roll across the floor whenever I lift up the vehicle

flex... more importantly, tire clears fender

and last thing tonight was assemble the Nitro gears custom axles....

SuperBuickGuy · Sep 8, 2015

good gravy I'm irritated.
I figured tonight I'd do a fairly easy job... a bit of work leveling the fender (that was easy).. then the "easy" job of lubing bearings, installing seals, installing the axle shafts....

so I got to here

yay, end in sight... NOT

why won't the hub go on?

on the old axle, this is how it's supposed to fit

it slides over the end to give strength to the hub

but wait, it doesn't fit over the 30 spline new hubs :ha:

new hub on right, old hub on left (both milemarker premium hubs)

they're the same... however, it's a 30 spline new shaft (same as GM dana 44s) - yet it looks like someone put the ford hubs in a box with the chevy inners.... oh good grief.

I'm not throwing the supplier under the bus yet - but they are dangerously close to getting an "avoid them at all cost" rating.

SuperBuickGuy · Sep 9, 2015

the solution to the hub issue is to get the Warn hubs that RCV recommends... they even make a billet inner that's not terribly expensive...

plugging holes
in addition to getting the front end together in a more permanent fashion, I worked on a fender

thanks for the plugs, dad

all plugged

brace goes here

cut, and coped

and welded

that's all folks... g'nite

4speedfunk · Sep 10, 2015

Not sure what the issue with your lockouts is. I have ran MM and Warn units on all kinds of D44s. You have make sure the hubs (the shell part...not the lockouts), match the stub shafts. Factory stubs are 19 spline (not 30) unless you have upgraded. They come in many lengths....but they have to match the hubs.
Rig looks great BTW.

SuperBuickGuy · Sep 10, 2015

they're 30 spline and that's the issue - oh yeah, and that the company who provided the axles and the hubs didn't bother checking before they sent them out the door... what bugs me is their attitude. these are pretty new to the market, so it's understandable that there'd be teething pains. I just wish they dispense with the "it's everyone's fault but mine" crap. oh well, I think keeping u-joints instead of going with CV joints is a better option because there is less chance of water infiltration and the crap that comes with water. on the other hand is the issue that could arise with these u-joints don't have needle bearings so could easily overheat if not serviced regularly.

SuperBuickGuy · Sep 10, 2015

got more done tonight

mom-in-law is going to be here tomorrow so I've done the paper mache screw together so it doesn't look (more) like a stack of parts... I still need to weld the fenders, but it's a lot closer.

SuperBuickGuy · Sep 13, 2015

Today I played hooky from the shop and went wheeling - so not much got done... just these things got worked on

and then I leaned the radiator to mimic the tilt of the motor...

next up is a shroud

SuperBuickGuy · Sep 14, 2015

tonight was go backward, I guess... oh well, now is the time to fix this - not be embarrassed by it later

The transfer case is leaking - I guess "blind bolt" to Jeep doesn't, actually mean, separate from the fluid.... so it was leaking out the bolt... and from that cute cast pan. So I pulled it apart

but first, a congratulations - the locking hubs fit.... a bit tight, but they work and I'm glad that saga is done.

so there is A drop on the floor... schmucking gall darn it.

and apart it comes

and then problem 2 arose.... I thought, when I put it together last time that it didn't seem the male shaft was long enough for the female hole.... I measured it, and I was right... it's just a bit too short

that's a problem, though, I need at least 1/4" but it seems the best way to do this would be to take the adapter completely apart and re-fit it. Have I mentioned there are times when it would be really nice to have a lathe (again)?

schmuckity schmuck schmuck schmuck ah well, I know people so I can do this.

SuperBuickGuy · Sep 16, 2015

in the end, I simply cut it apart and pressed it back together a bit narrower

I shouldn't show this since I don't know how to weld (heh)

commercial break... the color flat olive/brown

and finally getting to the driveshaft hoop/divot to allow full drop

now that the paint's dry

you can tell I narrowed it because it's now black

and it looks like I need to take just a bit out of this cross member

this actually is a red letter moment... for the first time since I owned the vehicle there is a direct connection from the crank to the front axle

FJ4overland

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