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H3 led light bar mounts...

650Hawk

650Hawk

Well-Known Member
Messages
483
Location
SoCal
I've seen a number of posts where people keep asking about the LED on the switch remaining on all the time. It is simply the way you wire the switch. Look at the pics below of a typical 5-terminal lighted switch:
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"Power Positive" is the one that comes from your battery (it is typically labeled as "COM").
"Normally Open" is the one that goes to your relay/lightbar, labeled "NO".
"Normally Closed" is not used in this application, labeled "NC".
"Negative of the light" is the ground for the switch's LED; this should go to ground, labeled "GND" or "(-)".
"Positive of the light" is the + side of the switch LED, and will determine when that LED is on, usually labeled "(+)". Hook it to the "Power Positive" and the LED be on all the time (left pic). Hook it to the "Normally Open" and it will only be on when the switch is turned on (right pic).

A rectangular switch will have the same terminals/labels, just a different layout of course.

Sorry, I can't seem to get rid of all of these extra images showing up (below), and I can't figure out how to delete a post and start over.
 

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awalsh

awalsh

Well-Known Member
Messages
349
Location
New Jersey
I tried to change the wires up on the 5 prong rocker so the led would only turn on when I flicked the switch but it was led light or no light
so now my light is always on for my bar


Sent from my iPhone
 
650Hawk

650Hawk

Well-Known Member
Messages
483
Location
SoCal
awalsh said:
I tried to change the wires up on the 5 prong rocker so the led would only turn on when I flicked the switch but it was led light or no light
so now my light is always on for my bar


Sent from my iPhone
Click to expand...
Any way to post a pic of the back of your switch? Or post the list of your switch terminals (C or COM, NC, NO, +, -) and what each is wired to, and I'll try to solve the problem. Any 5 terminal illuminated switch can be wired to illuminate only when the switch is turned on, or only when turned off, or all the time; whichever you choose.
 
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awalsh

awalsh

Well-Known Member
Messages
349
Location
New Jersey
mine also isn't grounded to the body, just the battery
and I used a harness I got off amazon which uses a relay and does not have more than one ground


Sent from my iPhone
 
650Hawk

650Hawk

Well-Known Member
Messages
483
Location
SoCal
So there is only 3 terminals on the back of the switch?

#7 should go to ground (chassis or battery, no difference).
#2 should come from your battery (+).
#3 should be going out to your lightbar relay.

I suspect that you have #2 and #3 swapped. Also, #7 can share the same ground with your relay, but they both still must actually go to a ground point (chassis or battery (-)).
 
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J

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,401
Location
Way up north, UT
With the way those particular switches are setup, you have to disassemble them to rewire the LED, it's not as simple as just changing where the terminal is hooked up. That schematic looks like there actually is not a separate terminal for the LED other than the negative terminal (and hooking that to positive won't do anything except possibly blow the LED).
 
650Hawk

650Hawk

Well-Known Member
Messages
483
Location
SoCal
JPaul said:
With the way those particular switches are setup, you have to disassemble them to rewire the LED, it's not as simple as just changing where the terminal is hooked up. That schematic looks like there actually is not a separate terminal for the LED other than the negative terminal (and hooking that to positive won't do anything except possibly blow the LED).
Click to expand...
Correct, the LED's positive is wired internally to terminal #3. That means the LED will be illuminated when terminal #3 is hot. So if you hook your incoming power from the battery to #3 and the accessory (lightbar/relay) to #2, then the LED's positive side is always hot and it will be on all the time (because terminal #3 is always hot). If, however, you hook the incoming power from the battery to #2 and the accessory (lightbar/relay) to #3, then the LED's positive side will only be hot when the switch is turned on (because that is the only time that terminal #3 will be hot). There is no need to disassemble the switch or "rewire" the LED to get it to work right. See the diagrams below, for the exact switch in question:
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1

126andy

Member
Messages
11
Location
Calverton
When you used self tapping sheet metal screws to attach the brackets did you use the ones with the Hex heads and did you notice anything when you closed the doors or was there enough clearance or did you use Pan head screws. Also how long were the ones you used?
 
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1

126andy

Member
Messages
11
Location
Calverton
IISPEEDYII said:
A few others and I used self tapping sheet metal screws. I got ones that were just big enough to fit through the hole, and then pre drilled and then screwed them in. I also run a 52 instead of a 50 incher which you can do with some bending.
Click to expand...

When you used self tapping sheet metal screws to attach the brackets did you use the ones with the Hex heads and did you notice anything when you closed the doors or was there enough clearance or did you use Pan head screws. Also how long were the ones you used?
 
C

CRR

Member
Messages
5
Location
Indiana
I started making the ebay brackets after G2 tried giving a good friend of mine the shaft, as well as several other people from what I've seen as they have removed their ratings from the FB page. Over 100 sets out there worldwide and everyone seems very happy.

The first set of 52" brackets shipped out yesterday, I'll make a new auction once I receive confirmation on the fit, or after any necessary adjustments are made. Hole pattern is the same so the 50" and 52" brackets can interchange.
 
TxHummer07

TxHummer07

Well-Known Member
Messages
55
Location
San Antonio
CRR said:
I started making the ebay brackets after G2 tried giving a good friend of mine the shaft, as well as several other people from what I've seen as they have removed their ratings from the FB page. Over 100 sets out there worldwide and everyone seems very happy.

The first set of 52" brackets shipped out yesterday, I'll make a new auction once I receive confirmation on the fit, or after any necessary adjustments are made. Hole pattern is the same so the 50" and 52" brackets can interchange.
Click to expand...
Link?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
 
08h3Alpha

08h3Alpha

Active Member
Messages
27
Location
Phoenix, AZ
CRR said:
I started making the ebay brackets after G2 tried giving a good friend of mine the shaft, as well as several other people from what I've seen as they have removed their ratings from the FB page. Over 100 sets out there worldwide and everyone seems very happy.

The first set of 52" brackets shipped out yesterday, I'll make a new auction once I receive confirmation on the fit, or after any necessary adjustments are made. Hole pattern is the same so the 50" and 52" brackets can interchange.
Click to expand...

Looking forward to it. I already have a curved 52" ready.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
H3TDave

H3TDave

Well-Known Member
Messages
111
Location
West Virginia
cromagnon said:
hi, is it possibile to install above or lower the G2? Or just in the exact place showed in the photoS? Do you know what type of LED bar will fit the G2? Thanks
Click to expand...
Unless you get a light bar that has two mounting bolts on each end. I've seen some that have one for mounting and one for adjustment. Looks like I have mine a little lower than in the pic. I'm not sure if that's the reason for all my wind noise but be ready for that.
bd29a7ea32e5b75d43366cf70c82964f.jpg


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