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  1. #16
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    [QUOTE=Zerreitug;223779]Here is an update for you mdocod. I drove the H3 until it started with the "howling", then downshifted as you suggested (only 1 position), but there was no change. It was identical to being in Drive. I feel like it has become quieter a bit. The only thing changed is me putting some miles on with the new differential fluid in the front. I dont have any data to back this up obviously but It seems to have quieted down a very small amount (im pretty sensitive to noises). Im gonna change the rear diff fluid this weekend and see how it looks.


    -----------------------------------------------------------------------


    Thanks for the suggestion Clark, are you referring to the wheel hub bearings? Sorry if it seems obvious but im new to auto mechanics.

    Yes badly worn hub bearings will create a loud humming noise while in drive. It feels like your running without any lubrication.

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  3. #17
    "Like Nothing Else"
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    I would do as some others have suggested. I had a similar noise, turned out to be my front pinion bearing.

    1. block off the wheels so the H3 doesn't roll
    2. put the transfer case into 4 hi lock
    3. remove the front driveshaft, its 8 bolts total, 4 at the transfer case, 4 at the front diff.
    4. go for a drive.
    * the h3 has to be in 4 Hi lock in order to drive with the front driveshaft removed*

    If the sound is gone, then its an issue in your front axle assembly and you'll probably need to pull the front diff and investigate.
    If the sound is still there, its in one of the remaining moving parts...trans, t-case, rear axle.

    Check the driveshaft while you're under there, the boot does rip letting all the grease out and then the bearings go bad, but IIRC this makes more of a clicky sound than a howling (happened to me once).

    Removing the front driveshaft is an easy and quick way to help narrow down where the problem is.
    -2009 H3 Alpha/Adv
    -2008 H3 Alpha-RIP

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    crwalkerasla (06-05-2018), Zerreitug (05-25-2018)

  5. #18
    Bald Tire
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    Thanks cgalpha08. Those sound like some solid troubleshooting steps i can do. Ill look into removing the front driveshaft and checking the boots as well.

    Thanks to everyone giving suggestions and sharing your experience to help me with this problem. I really appreciate it. I will be looking into your suggestions and try to figure this out.

    Quote Originally Posted by cgalpha08 View Post
    I would do as some others have suggested. I had a similar noise, turned out to be my front pinion bearing.

    1. block off the wheels so the H3 doesn't roll
    2. put the transfer case into 4 hi lock
    3. remove the front driveshaft, its 8 bolts total, 4 at the transfer case, 4 at the front diff.
    4. go for a drive.
    * the h3 has to be in 4 Hi lock in order to drive with the front driveshaft removed*

    If the sound is gone, then its an issue in your front axle assembly and you'll probably need to pull the front diff and investigate.
    If the sound is still there, its in one of the remaining moving parts...trans, t-case, rear axle.

    Check the driveshaft while you're under there, the boot does rip letting all the grease out and then the bearings go bad, but IIRC this makes more of a clicky sound than a howling (happened to me once).

    Removing the front driveshaft is an easy and quick way to help narrow down where the problem is.
    Last edited by Zerreitug; 05-25-2018 at 04:35 PM. Reason: formatting
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    crwalkerasla (06-05-2018)

  7. #19
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    I would like to thank everyone in this string. On the return leg of a 3K mile trip, my '06H3 started doing the exact same thing. I got to looking it over and the rear seal of the TCase had been leaking. By the time I was able to find a truck stop with a garage open on Sunday morning, the whine, turned to a howl, to roaring like a banshee. A jug of LUCAS & ATF tempered the sound until I had to stop for gas. The roar returned, but I was able to get back home.

    Check your seals before the real damage is done.

    SS Bull Bar, Tension Bar Body Leveled, SS Nerf Bars, PCMof NC Re-Tune, K&N CAI, Magnaflow CAT BACK Exhaust, Skyjacker Shocks, Window Tint, Pioneer Touchscreen DVD, 305-70-16 Cooper ST MAXX, Husky Mud Flaps, Kicker CS front door speakers, Sony 4-way rear door speakers.

  8. #20
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    Also, 2 more things.
    1. The '06, '07, & '08 each used a different fluid in the TCase. '06 used Dexron III-H which is no longer sold. The substitute is D/M ATF.
    2. The TCase on the '06H3 cannot be filled to capacity from the fill plug. You need to remove the speed sensor just above the plug and fill it there.
    Hope this helps.

    SS Bull Bar, Tension Bar Body Leveled, SS Nerf Bars, PCMof NC Re-Tune, K&N CAI, Magnaflow CAT BACK Exhaust, Skyjacker Shocks, Window Tint, Pioneer Touchscreen DVD, 305-70-16 Cooper ST MAXX, Husky Mud Flaps, Kicker CS front door speakers, Sony 4-way rear door speakers.

  9. #21
    Bald Tire
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    Lol... the T-case fluid can of worms...

    I'm of the opinion that any of the Tcases from any of those years will run fine on just about any ATF-like fluid, as long as they are filled to the proper level, and that there may be advantages in this application to selecting thicker and/or synthetic ATF options from premium brands like Redline/Amsoil.

    The most likely reason for them to transition from speccing the Dex III to the Dex VI is the reduced viscosity of Dex VI is apt to improve average fleet fuel economy estimates.

    I'm very tempted to treat the ATF I put in there recently as a flush... dump it and put some thicker fluid in there for when I put up the skid plates, which will likely make the tcase run hotter.

  10. #22
    Bald Tire
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    Just wanted to thank everyone involved in this thread giving me advice & here is an update as to the status of my howling source. My wheel bearings are fine and my front differential seems to not be the problem.

    I believe the howling is coming from a vacuum leak somewhere in the system. Im suspecting a connection point from the throttle body but I am still investigating. I also notice my brakes make a kind of "squish" when i press the pedal down, so I am going to look into master cylinder troubleshooting and checking o-rings.

    I changed my focus from mechanical because the howling, which I thought was constant, was absent from my driving occasionally, but then revealed itself intermittently during the same driving conditions. Also it completely disappears @ 60+mph. That scenario combined with the brake "squish" sound when pressed leads me to think there is a vacuum leak at a connection point big enough to cause a howl during the 40-59mph range. Also it sounds pretty much inline with the throttle body from the cabin.

    Anyways just wanted to update you all and thank you for the advice. If you have more insight, ill gladly accept it, along with some good luck wishes.
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  11. #23
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    Didn't all of the H3's have electronically assisted power brakes and not vacuum assisted?

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  12. #24
    Mud Terrain
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    Quote Originally Posted by JPaul View Post
    Didn't all of the H3's have electronically assisted power brakes and not vacuum assisted?

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
    Correct, all H3 do NOT have vacuum assisted brakes. They have a small electric pump and accumulator. H3 also do not use vacuum to control HVAC.

    For what its worth all of our H3s (5 of them) have that annoying howling noise you are discussing. They all have over 150k miles on them and despite throwing wheel bearings, driveshafts, CV shafts, T-case chains etc they each still make various levels of the same noise over 60mph under load. I think our next step will be a full transfercase rebuild to swap out all bearings and see if that helps.
    2006 Red H3 Adventure/ luxury 37" iroks, HD tierods, steering rack kit, custom front IFS HP Dana 44 diff with Yukon zip locker, Np241 manual T-case, 6.0L VVT/ 6L90 swap

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    2008 Black H3 Alpha HD tierods, steering rack kit, custom front IFS HP Dana 44 diff with truetrac

  13. #25
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    atvspeed4, thanks for hitting me with that knowledge. Its always good to learn more about my hummer. Keep me updated if the transfer case rebuild fixes that problem. I appreciate the info.

    Quote Originally Posted by atvspeed4 View Post
    Correct, all H3 do NOT have vacuum assisted brakes. They have a small electric pump and accumulator. H3 also do not use vacuum to control HVAC.

    For what its worth all of our H3s (5 of them) have that annoying howling noise you are discussing. They all have over 150k miles on them and despite throwing wheel bearings, driveshafts, CV shafts, T-case chains etc they each still make various levels of the same noise over 60mph under load. I think our next step will be a full transfercase rebuild to swap out all bearings and see if that helps.
    HUMMER H3 Replacement Key Fob Shells
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  14. #26
    El Diablo
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    Quote Originally Posted by mdocod View Post
    Lol... the T-case fluid can of worms...

    The most likely reason for them to transition from speccing the Dex III to the Dex VI is the reduced viscosity of Dex VI is apt to improve average fleet fuel economy estimates.
    Dex VI would have been the quoted spec for all years but it was not yet certified for the transfer case when the 06s were released. The electronic service manuals that GM uses will specify Dex VI for all years of the H3. Unfortunately, they can't electronically update printed materials like the owner's manual.

    I think the best maintenance that you can do to the transfer case is change the fluid often. Unlike the diffs or the transmission, there's no magnet to catch any metal particles so those pieces keep floating through the oil. They may be small, but they will be abrasive nonetheless. I did a fluid change before Moab and post Moab, about 3000 miles on the oil and there was a light silvery sheen. Looks like something is wearing out in there. I've also gone 20K between changes with less metal apparent in the fluid.

  15. #27
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    There is a magnet in the t-case. Unfortunately it cannot be accessed or cleaned except during a teardown. Why it’s not on the drain plug is anyone’s guess.

    The chain is steel but everything it rubs on is non ferrous anyway (magnesium or aluminum). So most of the metallic dust is softer metal that won’t attach to the magnet. It does a good job of clogging the oil pump pickup screen, however.

  16. #28
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    I'll be sure to let y'all know if the Tcase rebuild took care of my whining sound. I should be getting my truck back this week.

    SS Bull Bar, Tension Bar Body Leveled, SS Nerf Bars, PCMof NC Re-Tune, K&N CAI, Magnaflow CAT BACK Exhaust, Skyjacker Shocks, Window Tint, Pioneer Touchscreen DVD, 305-70-16 Cooper ST MAXX, Husky Mud Flaps, Kicker CS front door speakers, Sony 4-way rear door speakers.

  17. #29
    El Diablo
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4speedfunk View Post
    There is a magnet in the t-case. Unfortunately it cannot be accessed or cleaned except during a teardown. Why it’s not on the drain plug is anyone’s guess.

    The chain is steel but everything it rubs on is non ferrous anyway (magnesium or aluminum). So most of the metallic dust is softer metal that won’t attach to the magnet. It does a good job of clogging the oil pump pickup screen, however.
    thanks! I meant those, um, non-ferrous magnets weren't present


 

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