Center diff bushing metal insert wanted

Does anyone happen to have the metal insert and lower indented washer for the center front diff bushing sitting around I could pick up?

I ended up ordering another OD diff bushing kit since I decided I didn't want to mess around with swapping the outer brackets between my red H3 and the Alpha, but after getting the kit I realized I don't have the inner metal portion of the original bushing. I can maybe fabricate something but I'm going to have to find some pipe that fits exactly. I'm pretty irritated now having spent another $200 just to find I don't have the parts I need to get the red H3 back together correctly. Really need to finish getting it back together so that I can sell it.

Crickets, eh? Can't say I'm surprised.

No matter. I looked over everything today and came to the conclusion that all I really need are a couple 1/8" thick washers (procured or fabricated) and a 1/8" wall pipe that is more or less the right size (3/4" black iron pipe seems good enough) cut to a crush fit. There isn't any kind of placement laterally going on with the OEM bushing, despite the notches cut into the bearing plate of the OEM bushing. There are no matching keys on the diff, and the inside diameter of the bushing's metal insert is far larger than the bolt so there's quite a bit of lateral slop. The most is the bottom indented washer that actually has a close fit to the bolt, but that's not enough to do any real placement.

In fact I think the only reason those notches are cut out of the upper portion is to provide clearance for the tool used to press the bushings in place so that it can press directly against the outer sleeve when pressing them in so as not to damage the rubber portion.

ebay has them

Ebay has the entire bushing and I'm not paying another $60 for one when I just spent $200 on the OD kit.

I was able to get some 2.5" 1/8" thick steel 1/2" fender washers from Fastenal fortunately, which are a perfect fit by the way. Those compined with a few smaller and thinner fender washers and a peice of galvanized pipe cut and ground to length worked out great. I was able to get the crossmember re-installed in me red H3 so it can actually be driven now. All that's left now is to finish putting the wheel well liners, front bumper, grille, and bash plates back on and it will be good to go. Unfortunately I'm probably going to need that all done sooner rather than later since the Alpha has decided to start making a rather disturbing noise. I'm hoping this won't be the case, but I might be dealing with a transmission rebuild on the Alpha.

Pics?

That whole crossmember system is very sketchy. In addition to the center bushing, the steel crossmember itself can develop stress cracks where it bolts to the frame. Be sure to look very closely at the ends of it, and weld it up if needed.

I would certainly install the outboard bushings if you have them. All three bushings work together to hold the axle in position. Leaving soft rubber outboard bushings with a firmed up center bushing may actually cause more issues. Now you are clamping the snout of the diff but, not the ends. So be careful when spinning the front tires. If they grab, it can cause the pumpkin to flex (ka-bang...munch munch munch).

Honestly, i think the whole design is sketchy lol! Seems like a solidly mounted at both ends steering rack with solidly built support would be so much better. Other GM products have three or four bolt steering racks that don't use the silly ridiculous horseshoe hoop and a couple bolts.