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  1. #1
    Super Swamper
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    H3 Baja 1000 Race Truck - Stock Class

    So I have been plagued with some thoughts that I thought I would make for a good discussion in the forum.

    #1 - What do we know about the changes that they made to race prep Rod Hall's h3 race trucks?

    #2 - How much would it cost to build such a truck in a driveway

    #3 - Is it reasonable to prep a truck in a year (this years race starts next week)

    I am thinking now with these being out for a while that there might be a way to buy one up, do most of the mod's that the Rod Hall Race team did and head down to Baja for next years 1000....

    As for point #1 the mods that Rod Hall did on their h3's (I will add to the list with updates in future posts):
    - Roll cage
    - Front bumper
    - Rear bumper
    - Fox shocks front and rear ($4000-5000) Fox Shox
    - 3" body lift via aluminum blocks
    - Rear leaf springs (Deaver?)
    - Truss on the rear axle
    - Limit straps on the front suspension ($50) LINK
    - Take out all glass
    - Window nets
    - Race seats ($800-1000) Beard, Master Craft
    - 5 point harness ($300) LINK
    - Relocate the fuel tank
    - Rewire of key electrical components (fuel pump, ignition, etc.)
    - Re-map of PCM
    - Strip out the interior
    - Gated shifter ($250) Link
    - Communication ($2000)
    - Navigation ($1,000) LINK
    - Air filtration ($400) LINK
    - Lights ($2000)
    - Rear marker lights ($200)
    - OEM rims with upgraded rubber (believe they ran 35's)

    What else am I missing?

    As for #2 total cost.... This can get totally out of hand in a hurry and that's why the stock class is a good place to start as it can be limited somewhat.
    Things that could help keep the cost down would be to buy a salvaged H3 - preferably one that has hail damage or something similar. Buy one that comes with the stuff you would want like an iron diff and lockers so your not spending more to get to the same starting point. You might be able to snag some sponsorship, but you wouldn't want to rely on that as it could be spotty as a first timer

    Point #3- Could you do this in a year?
    Honestly, Chris and Squeaky have shown the group what determination can accomplish in a driveway and it's a bit of an inspiration/kick in the butt to push for something that I have always wanted to personally do. (also just had two Olymipic Athletes move into our rental suite and it really has made me want to push myself to do something big)


    Post away any idea's, pictures, information related to what would need to get done in order to make this a reality....

    PS- If this starts to become a reality then it will all be posted on here, and I will reach out to one of the team drivers for Rod Hall racing that I met this summer (they came me their cell # to stay in touch).
    Last edited by RamRod; 11-06-2017 at 12:25 AM. Reason: Updating info
    2009 Hummer H3T Alpha
    4 Rancho Lift, 37x12.5x17 BFG A/Ts, Method "The Standard" rims, Magnuson Supercharger, Magnaflow exhaust, 40" LED light bar, 9'' round LED spot lights, SnugTop, Thor Parts bumper w/ swing out for full sized spare, Hidden 9,500 lb Superwinch, Custom Sliders, UCP w/ Thor Parts skids, Custom bed cage

    www.ministryofadventure.ca

  2. #2
    Bald Tire
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    Are you looking to just build one like the one Rod Hall used to race back in 2008 or you want or build one to race it?

    It is very expensive both ways, first you would have to see which category will fit in and make it to spec and get it approved from SCORE.

    Tires: he used 35 BFG Baja T/A with OEM wheels.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    Super Swamper
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    Here are some photos of the trucks to give some context to their modifications:



    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    2009 Hummer H3T Alpha
    4 Rancho Lift, 37x12.5x17 BFG A/Ts, Method "The Standard" rims, Magnuson Supercharger, Magnaflow exhaust, 40" LED light bar, 9'' round LED spot lights, SnugTop, Thor Parts bumper w/ swing out for full sized spare, Hidden 9,500 lb Superwinch, Custom Sliders, UCP w/ Thor Parts skids, Custom bed cage

    www.ministryofadventure.ca

  4. #4
    Mud Terrain
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    Quote Originally Posted by RamRod View Post
    Here are some photos of the trucks to give some context to their modifications:



    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Lower shock bushing through the cast control arm was replaced with a uniball
    2000 Chevrolet Blazer Zr2 locked fr+R custom front diff
    2006 Red H3 Adventure/ luxury 37" iroks, HD tierods, steering rack kit, custom front IFS diff with airlocker, Np241 manual T-case
    2008 Black H3 Alpha HD tierods, steering rack kit, HD diff bushings

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    RamRod (11-06-2017)

  6. #5
    Super Swamper
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    I would like to build one and race it! Not necessarily as balls out as a pro build, but enough to have a chance of finishing!

    Quote Originally Posted by 555RacingTeam View Post
    Are you looking to just build one like the one Rod Hall used to race back in 2008 or you want or build one to race it?

    It is very expensive both ways, first, you would have to see which category will fit in and make it to spec and get it approved from SCORE.

    Tires: he used 35” BFG Baja T/A with OEM wheels.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2009 Hummer H3T Alpha
    4 Rancho Lift, 37x12.5x17 BFG A/Ts, Method "The Standard" rims, Magnuson Supercharger, Magnaflow exhaust, 40" LED light bar, 9'' round LED spot lights, SnugTop, Thor Parts bumper w/ swing out for full sized spare, Hidden 9,500 lb Superwinch, Custom Sliders, UCP w/ Thor Parts skids, Custom bed cage

    www.ministryofadventure.ca

  7. #6
    Bald Tire
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    Its super fun to race the baja but it gets super expensive, have you look in to the NORRRA?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. The Following User Says Thank You to 555RacingTeam For This Useful Post:

    SickStringC (11-07-2017)

  9. #7
    Super Swamper
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    Quote Originally Posted by 555RacingTeam View Post
    It’s super fun to race the baja but it gets super expensive, have you look in to the NORRRA?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I would be interested in NORRRA as well but as of today the next race is 166 days away and I wouldn't be able to get ready in time so I would have to hit up their 2019 race which is a long ways off (I do like the less serious tone that they seem to set of their event)....honestly I would love to run both at some point!
    2009 Hummer H3T Alpha
    4 Rancho Lift, 37x12.5x17 BFG A/Ts, Method "The Standard" rims, Magnuson Supercharger, Magnaflow exhaust, 40" LED light bar, 9'' round LED spot lights, SnugTop, Thor Parts bumper w/ swing out for full sized spare, Hidden 9,500 lb Superwinch, Custom Sliders, UCP w/ Thor Parts skids, Custom bed cage

    www.ministryofadventure.ca

  10. #8
    Bald Tire
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    If you are only looking to build a hummer I would recommend you to contact Rod Halls Team, they should have a couple h3 builds you could get for less that half the price it would cost to build them. His granddaughter is the one running the team I think.

    Do you have any experience racing ?
    I wanted to build a vehicle to race the baja but it was way too expensive for me.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  11. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by RamRod View Post
    Things that could help keep the cost down would be to buy a salvaged H3 - preferably one that has hail damage or something similar. Buy one that comes with the stuff you would want like an iron diff and lockers so your not spending more to get to the same starting point.
    If you want front and rear lockers it has to be a 2009 or 2010. 2006 to 2008 was rear locker only (Assuming it has the ADV package)
    Iron Front diff (AAM 8.6) was in 2008.5 to 2010 models

    Not sure if this is what you are exactly looking for, but here are a few that match the criteria (Idk how hard it would to be to fix a flooded vehicle and the extent of the damage of these)
    https://www.iaai.com/Vehicle?itemID=...oadRecent=True
    https://www.iaai.com/Vehicle?itemID=...oadRecent=True
    https://www.iaai.com/Vehicle?itemID=...oadRecent=True

  12. #10
    All Terrain
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    Good luck with the build . Racing Baja is a blast ! Just bring your checkbook it's not cheap. Heading down Saturday for the 1000.

  13. #11
    Bald Tire
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    Hi Ramrod. It’s been awhile. I started down this road 5 years ago. I came on here last night because I am restarting my build. And to my surprise, here you are planning one as well.


    It is quite the undertaking, and I wish you the best. I had to put mine on hold for a few years. In fact I almost sold it and abandoned it, but luckily I didn’t. So I won’t highjack your thread, but I will lay out for you what I know and learned along the way. All just my opinion.



    1. Start talking to as many people as you can who have done it. The Halls are great starting place. I had good conversations with them, and got some good cage pictures to get me going. But, remember one thing. They had a multi billion dollar industry and factory leader behind them in their initial builds. A full custom shop building their machines. And a full time professional staff building them. And Rod Hall behind it all guiding it. Long story short, trying to replicate what they have done, is going to be difficult.



    I’m not saying you can’t. In fact I’ve always been a believer in you can do anything you want when you decide to do it. Just bear in mind what they have. Good ideas from them, but bloody expensive to try and keep up with those Jones.



    1. Get your SCORE membership and current rule book. Read the stock full class until you can recite it. As well and the general rules. It is my suggestion, you do not make any build plans until that point. (One note : I’ve looked at a few Stock Full vehicles. I will say some things were not exactly stock. I’m not saying people cheat.... a little bit. But, I’m not saying they don’t.) Pay close attention to the details when looking at other builds that have passed inspection.




    1. Candidate vehicle. $5-20,000. Plus. All depends on what you find.



    Ask your self this. Are you willing to destroy your current H3?
    If no, have fun on the rubicon and call it a day.


    If yes, be prepared to write the whole thing off at any point in the race.It’s possible.
    In fact one year I didn’t go with another team, because the vehicle, a very expensive and lengthy build was written off in a trial run prior to the race. Completely written off. Real men shed tears that day. It can happen at any time.


    I’m not trying to talk you one way or the other. Just make sure you go into it knowing the possibilities. I’ll say it one more time. You can do anything you want, if you just decide to go do it, and your H3 can remain a permanent fixture of a Mexican gully.


    Ok, Off my soap box.


    So. For your list, I’ll add a few notes. Add a few items. Some general budget numbers. And you can take it from there. I had a lot of fun just doing the research and planning. It took me about a year of planning and learning all that I could. I probably spent 30-40 hours a week learning for the first 6 months.




    - Roll cage. $3-5,000
    materials. Tubing, plate, rod etc.
    Depends on what tooling you already have:
    Welder and regulator. Tig
    Grinder
    Cut of saw
    Bench grinder
    Tube hole saw, for cut outs
    Tube bender, large area for tube bender


    Contd.....

  14. #12
    Bald Tire
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    Contd.




    - Front bumper. Build your own from tubing or mod the stock.


    - Rear bumper. Same as front.


    - Fox shocks front and rear ($4000-5000) Fox Shox
    Yup. imho, I suggest King. Much better people to work with. And better equipment.
    Fox has just gotten way too big.


    - 3" body lift via aluminum blocks. $500-1,000 custom.
    Check regulations. I can’t remember what they say. Plus, you might not need that much. Keep the c of g as low as possible. I used 3/4” on the H2 and it was plenty.



    - Rear leaf springs (Deaver?). Stock


    - Truss on the rear axle. Stock. Check regs.


    - Limit straps on the front suspension ($50) LINK
    Add more money.


    - Take out all glass. Yes.


    - Window nets. $200


    - Race seats ($800-1000) Beard, Master Craft
    I have master craft, and look good to me. Well built. Can not remember price.


    - 5 point harness ($300)
    Master craft again. Good stuff


    - Relocate the fuel tank -check regs. $2,000 on the cheap. $5,000 for good.
    Remove factory fuel system and install fuel cell system.
    This will be built into roll cage. The regs give you all the build data.
    Fuel cell, large enough to get you from pit to pit. Or dual cells.
    Lines, roll over valves,
    Pumps, dual for back up,
    Etc etc. The factory system will not pass tech inspection.


    - Rewire of key electrical components (fuel pump, ignition, etc.)
    Yes. Part of the de-wiring and fuel system.


    - Re-map of PCM. $1,000
    Buy a tuner and program what you wish. IMHO, don’t get radical. The point is to finish the race. Radical damages things.


    - Strip out the interior
    Yes.


    - Gated shifter ($250) Link
    Not imho. Stock is good enough.


    - Communication ($2000). $3,000
    Yes. Lots of options here. I’d add a bit more to that number.
    Radios: Rugged, PCI etc.
    Sat phone. A good one. Don’t cheap out on this. It is going to be your life line.
    Spot.


    - Navigation ($1,000) LINK $$$$
    Yes, plus what ever they require you to install these days. I’d add a bit more to that budget.






    Contd....


  15. #13
    Bald Tire
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    - Air filtration ($400) LINK.
    I read an interesting study on this. I am assuming you are talking abut engine.
    The study was undertaken by a private individual. Factory filter systems work the best. KandN were the worst. And it made sense. Get good filter bags to cover the filters and change them out every stop.


    - Lights ($2000) $3,000
    you can not have enough lights at night. Especially if the weather turns. And bring a couple spare. For that first time you roll it......


    - Rear marker lights($200)
    Ok.


    - OEM rims with upgraded rubber (believe they ran 35's) $3,000 minimum.
    Plus an extra set. You can send a few down the trail with what ever pit company you will use. Use BF Goodrich. If you do, you can use their pits as well for free. Start with all brand new. Period. Don’t skimp on this.
    Plus a whole set of spares. Take 2with you and send a with your pit crews.


    Pits. You will need them. $2,000
    Sign up with the private pit crews.
    Baja Pits and Mag7 pits.
    Sign up for both. Money well spent.
    Especially if you are a two man team, indispensable if you are going to iron man it.


    Fuel. $1,000 plus.


    Batteries. $500 plus.
    Selector and Master switch’s etc.
    Wiring.


    Driving suits, helmets, gloves, boots. Etc. $1,500
    I’m assuming you will have at least one other person with you.


    Fresh air blowers for helmets. Well worth it. $500


    Trucks and trailers to get there. $$$$....
    How will you get the race truck there? Who will go with you?
    How many are going with you? Crew?
    Is this a loop or peninsula run? How will you back to Ensenada if it’s a peninsula run? Who will come pick you up if you roll down a gully at mile marker 467? How will you get it out...
    accommodations for everyone? When and where. Start and finish line.
    Cost to get everyone and vehicles back home.
    The cost of this depends on where you are.
    For me, I was 2,600 miles from Ensenada. A long way for me to go. It was an expensive trip just to get there with two trucks, 4 man crew, trailer and race truck, spare parts and tires, house rental ($2,000 for house -well worth it, on the beach...) expect a day or so after to recuperate.


    Which brings me to... physical conditioning. Are you going to try and iron man this thing? Share the driving, multiple crews? A thousand miles of crap hole nowhere beating you senseless.... I’m not sure what your experience is.
    I haven’t done the Baja, (yet); but I’ve done more than my share of arctic and northern bush roads (personally, I don’t call them roads...), in trucks, equipment, bikes, you name it,... it’s going to be tough. You will know where your kidneys are after 2-300 miles of it. The rest of your body will just be beat.
    Be prepared.


    Spare parts. What to take with you in the vehicle and what to send down the trail with the pit crews.
    More money.


    Tooling. What to take with you. Jacks? Tools? $$$


    Winch $$$


    Boards/Ramps for when you get stuck in silt. $$$


    Security and safety. What will you do for vehicle, spares, tooling etc, security when you are there before and after race. $$$



    There is probably stuff I’m missing, but you are off to a good start with your list. Let me rephrase that. There is stuff not on here. It’ll keep adding up.


    But hey, the rest you can learn along the way!

    The cheap way of doing this is just to buy one already done, or rent one... but where is the fun in that? In fact Chad Hall suggested it to me a few years ago, just buy one of his. I priced it all out. At the end of the day, yes, his was cheaper to buy. But, I’m interested in the build.



    I look forward to your build thread if you do it.... now back to my build thread and it’s 4 year update!


    Good luck.

  16. #14
    Hamster that pokes Bears
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    Yea, after doing some builds from scratch here is my 2cents.

    Buy already build truck for whatever class u want to run ( u will spent ~half compare to fresh start and then fix/upgrade what u need.
    But I think u will be looking at 100+k
    I almost bought EVO1 couple of years ago but I don't want to race and I want it street legal

    Good luck.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 

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