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  1. #1
    Bogger
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    Sound System Upgrade

    Looking to redo the whole sound system in the T again and there's a few things I forgot.

    1) Is the back door 6x9 and does it need a GM factory attachment adapter?

    2) The touch screen means it has a Monsoon setup?

    3) I'm going to need a GMOS-04 seeing how the base sound system was a GMOS-01, right?

    4) Has anyone been able to use the stock back up cam to the head unit?

    5) Are tweeters a must? Last time I didn't upgrade them so I'm not sure what tweeters even do?

    6) I'm going with a Sony XAV-AX100, does having the same brand speakers help any?

    7) If it does have the Monsoon setup, I'm not planing to use the factory amp seeing how I'm going back to using two Sound Ordnance B-8PTD.

    8) Is it even worth selling the factory touchscreen and amp or just pass it along to the next guy?

    I've been looking from head to toe for info but just want to make sure before I drop the coin on all this.

    Thanks for the help guys and really glad to be part of the group again.
    No one is more professional than I. I am a Noncommissioned Officer, a leader of Soldiers.

  2. #2
    Red Rockett
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    Quote Originally Posted by SolidusJ View Post
    Looking to redo the whole sound system in the T again and there's a few things I forgot.

    1) Is the back door 6x9 and does it need a GM factory attachment adapter?

    2) The touch screen means it has a Monsoon setup?

    3) I'm going to need a GMOS-04 seeing how the base sound system was a GMOS-01, right?

    4) Has anyone been able to use the stock back up cam to the head unit?

    5) Are tweeters a must? Last time I didn't upgrade them so I'm not sure what tweeters even do?

    6) I'm going with a Sony XAV-AX100, does having the same brand speakers help any?

    7) If it does have the Monsoon setup, I'm not planing to use the factory amp seeing how I'm going back to using two Sound Ordnance B-8PTD.

    8) Is it even worth selling the factory touchscreen and amp or just pass it along to the next guy?

    I've been looking from head to toe for info but just want to make sure before I drop the coin on all this.

    Thanks for the help guys and really glad to be part of the group again.
    1.) 6.5's in the doors 8" sub in the rear for monsoon H3's

    2.) if you have the sub in the back you have the monsoon system

    3.) GMSO4, you need a fancy kit if you want to keep doorchimes

    4.) Haven't been able to, but back up cameras on amazon are cheap and nice and easy to install.

    5.) Tweeters suck unless they're high end, leave them out or get component speakers (tweeter is built into it)

    6.) Nope make sure your radio has 3RCA out and check the output voltage if you're running an amp off of it. I recommend a JVC touch screen 150$ or so on amazon.

    7.) Not sure what the question was.

    8.) Not worth it IMO

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    SolidusJ (08-15-2017)

  4. #3
    Bogger
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    Quote Originally Posted by derian06 View Post
    1.) 6.5's in the doors 8" sub in the rear for monsoon H3's

    2.) if you have the sub in the back you have the monsoon system

    3.) GMSO4, you need a fancy kit if you want to keep doorchimes

    4.) Haven't been able to, but back up cameras on amazon are cheap and nice and easy to install.

    5.) Tweeters suck unless they're high end, leave them out or get component speakers (tweeter is built into it)

    6.) Nope make sure your radio has 3RCA out and check the output voltage if you're running an amp off of it. I recommend a JVC touch screen 150$ or so on amazon.

    7.) Not sure what the question was.

    8.) Not worth it IMO
    I have a H3T again, I'm pretty sure the rear door speaker is bigger.
    No one is more professional than I. I am a Noncommissioned Officer, a leader of Soldiers.

  5. #4
    Bogger
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    SOB I found my old setup on CHO

    -Sound Ordnance B-8PT Single 8" Amplified Flatsub (X2)
    -Rockford Fosgate RFK8I Amplifier Wiring Kit 8 gauge Power
    -Sound Ordnance P-69 6"x9" 2-way Speakers
    -Sound Ordnance P-65 6-1/2" 2-way Speakers -Pioneer AVH-P4200DVD DVD Receiver
    No one is more professional than I. I am a Noncommissioned Officer, a leader of Soldiers.

  6. #5
    Red Rockett
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    Sound System Upgrade

    Quote Originally Posted by SolidusJ View Post
    SOB I found my old setup on CHO

    -Sound Ordnance B-8PT Single 8" Amplified Flatsub (X2)
    -Rockford Fosgate RFK8I Amplifier Wiring Kit 8 gauge Power
    -Sound Ordnance P-69 6"x9" 2-way Speakers
    -Sound Ordnance P-65 6-1/2" 2-way Speakers -Pioneer AVH-P4200DVD DVD Receiver
    that looks like about 300$ in subs 100$ in speakers. Those are a waste of money in my opinion, don't buy a powered sub, do it the right way. Make a box to the proper specifications (50-60$)
    http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com...-600w-rms.html
    http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com...-out-sale.html
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005KW10ES..._N2DIzb9HKWRSF
    Soundqubed 8" 600w rms (120$) or 2 Sundown audio 8" 300w rms each (140$) in a custom box would blow those 2 amplified subs out of the water for cheaper. A ppi 1000w rms to power them. (166$)

    http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com...s-speaker.html
    http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com...mid-range.html
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005KVEPVO..._kdEIzbJ4CKA1A
    Crescendo PWX's for the doors or SSA Evils, fantastic speakers for the money. 70$ for 2 Crescendo's or 105$ for 2 SSA evil's. ppi 900.4 (170$) If you get that amp/speaker combo you're only going to need 2 speakers... trust me.

    For 625$ vs 400$ you'll have a sound system that absolutely DESTROYS the one you have listed. It also leaves room to upgrade if you want since you have more power than needed.

    Use this wiring kit instead https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050I6KII..._.kEIzbJKGVKMJ
    Last edited by derian06; 08-08-2017 at 12:12 PM.

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    SolidusJ (08-15-2017)

  8. #6
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    Solidus- The back 6x8's are bi-wired, if you replace them with normal speakers you will have zero bass/midbass and either a screeching pair of 6x9's or muddy pair of 6x9's depending on which set of wires you used.
    If you want to actually do it right you need to run new wire to the rear doors either from the new headunit or amp if you go with one. I put a RF 5 channel amp, Polk component set in the front, Polk 6x9 in the rear and an 8" sub in a box that fits perfectly in between the center console and rear seat and doesn't take up leg room if I have rear passengers.
    Those SO 8's really don't have much bang for the buck and at 300 for a pair of them you can get a good amp and a single 8 that will blow that pair away.

    You can recoup a good portion of your money from selling the factory nav unit. Pull the antenna while your in there and the nav disc and sell it as a package. I sold mine for 550 and the oem amp for 200.

    and do yourself a favor and forget all the crap Mr "Do it the right way" just hotlinked- no name garbage and 'Copper clad' aluminum 4 gauge.... Riiiiiiiight.
    09 H3T Alpha/Adv- |Rancho on 37's and 4.56 |Tuned |Gobi Stealth |Starr Hid |Thor Bumper |Arb Snorkel |Airdoc |UCP |American Roll Tonneau |Arb Compressor |Katzkins |Kenwood |Too many Led's

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    SolidusJ (08-15-2017)

  10. #7
    Bogger
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    Quote Originally Posted by Traxx View Post
    Solidus- The back 6x8's are bi-wired, if you replace them with normal speakers you will have zero bass/midbass and either a screeching pair of 6x9's or muddy pair of 6x9's depending on which set of wires you used.
    If you want to actually do it right you need to run new wire to the rear doors either from the new headunit or amp if you go with one. I put a RF 5 channel amp, Polk component set in the front, Polk 6x9 in the rear and an 8" sub in a box that fits perfectly in between the center console and rear seat and doesn't take up leg room if I have rear passengers.
    Those SO 8's really don't have much bang for the buck and at 300 for a pair of them you can get a good amp and a single 8 that will blow that pair away.

    You can recoup a good portion of your money from selling the factory nav unit. Pull the antenna while your in there and the nav disc and sell it as a package. I sold mine for 550 and the oem amp for 200.

    and do yourself a favor and forget all the crap Mr "Do it the right way" just hotlinked- no name garbage and 'Copper clad' aluminum 4 gauge.... Riiiiiiiight.

    I'm so lost about the rear speakers. Why won't the factory wire work with new speakers? I did notice that the rear speakers on my last T seem weird but I never dug too deep about it.

    Rewiring ins't a big deal, just want a better understand on why, also what in the world does the OEM amp power? I never really got into the whole having an amp to the door speakers so you got to school me about that.

    Show me your Sub setup, my last one was pretty badass but I'm not looking to waste money is there's something better out there. I did my last system back in 2010.
    No one is more professional than I. I am a Noncommissioned Officer, a leader of Soldiers.

  11. #8
    Bogger
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    Also isn't the nav antenna the shark fin on top? Is there any kits out there to bypass the OnStar crap? I had nothing but issues with the last one and ended up canceling OnStar.
    No one is more professional than I. I am a Noncommissioned Officer, a leader of Soldiers.

  12. #9
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    The T as you noticed doesn't have a factory sub so the oem amp uses the 6x9 woofer portion as the 'sub'. If you look on the speaker harness there are actually four wires to the rear speakers rather than the typical two, one pair carries the high signal, the other the lows.
    If your not going to use an amp on your door speakers then run new wire from the deck to the rears. Most modern decent quality speakers will sound much better with an amp pushing them rather than the weak power from a typical head unit.

    Since you asked about tweeters, tweeters are to the highs what a sub is to the lows. You don't really know what your missing until you have the full spectrum. A component set up front and an amp driving them will surprise you.

    The shark fin is the aerial, but the actual antenna is to the right of the stereo under the dash just google a pic of it, little circuit board with a green connector. You don't need to bypass onstar just unplug the box under the nav unit or just not activate the service.

    A good 5 channel amp will run your door speakers and sub and fit under the rear seat and you will still be able to keep your jack setup. Rockford Fosgate is well known for their amps producing much more power than rated for. Put in a quality wiring kit and proper gauge speaker wire rather than relying on the 18g stock wiring.

    I found a good 8" to be a fair tradeoff between having a decent sound system and not losing rear seating area. Not much point in having a quad cab truck if the rear doors are just to access your subwoofers
    09 H3T Alpha/Adv- |Rancho on 37's and 4.56 |Tuned |Gobi Stealth |Starr Hid |Thor Bumper |Arb Snorkel |Airdoc |UCP |American Roll Tonneau |Arb Compressor |Katzkins |Kenwood |Too many Led's

  13. #10
    Bald Tire
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    Quote Originally Posted by Traxx View Post
    Solidus- The back 6x8's are bi-wired, if you replace them with normal speakers you will have zero bass/midbass and either a screeching pair of 6x9's or muddy pair of 6x9's depending on which set of wires you used.
    If you want to actually do it right you need to run new wire to the rear doors either from the new headunit or amp if you go with one. I put a RF 5 channel amp, Polk component set in the front, Polk 6x9 in the rear and an 8" sub in a box that fits perfectly in between the center console and rear seat and doesn't take up leg room if I have rear passengers.
    Those SO 8's really don't have much bang for the buck and at 300 for a pair of them you can get a good amp and a single 8 that will blow that pair away.

    You can recoup a good portion of your money from selling the factory nav unit. Pull the antenna while your in there and the nav disc and sell it as a package. I sold mine for 550 and the oem amp for 200.

    and do yourself a favor and forget all the crap Mr "Do it the right way" just hotlinked- no name garbage and 'Copper clad' aluminum 4 gauge.... Riiiiiiiight.

    Traxx - Would you mind sharing a picture and info on the 8" sub and box you used? I'm going to be replacing the factory nav unit in my T with a Pioneer AVIC-8200NEX head unit (already purchased), and front and rear speakers with Polk Audio db6502 components (already purchased), but I still need to figure out a solution on the sub. I'm currently deciding between building a custom box under the rear bench seat for either a single shallow mount 10" (JL Audio 10TW3-D4) or two shallow mount 8" (RF P3SD2-8), or buying a single JL Audio ACS110LG-TW1 (10" sealed sub enclosure with Built-In Amplifier) and putting it on the floor behind the drivers seat. But like you, I didn't want to take up leg room if I have rear passengers. I'll be replacing the Monsoon amp with either a 4 channel amp to run the front and rear door speakers, or a 5-channel amp to run the speakers and sub, depending which route I go on the sub. I'm really interested to learn more about your 8" solution between the center console and rear seat. Any info you can pass along would be greatly appreciated.

    SolidusJ - How did your system upgrade go? What did you end up deciding on?
    Last edited by DFW Spartan; 09-16-2017 at 07:28 PM.
    2009 H3T Alpha Adventure

  14. #11
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    Just a cheap 8" unloaded pioneer sub box, and pick a sub that will fit in the specs. That box will fit nice and tight between the seat and console and not move even if you roll over. A sub in the T is pretty much a compromise no matter what way you go, There simply isn't enough room for a decent setup without losing something.

    https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/P...illes/UD-SW80D
    09 H3T Alpha/Adv- |Rancho on 37's and 4.56 |Tuned |Gobi Stealth |Starr Hid |Thor Bumper |Arb Snorkel |Airdoc |UCP |American Roll Tonneau |Arb Compressor |Katzkins |Kenwood |Too many Led's

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