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Cooling system upgrade/mods

Can007

Can007

Well-Known Member
Messages
360
Location
Palmdale, CA
I am a little late so I am back tracking on what I have done already.

My H3 has been running hot, slightly passing the 3/4 line whenever going up a steep hill or 4x4ing. Never true over heated but could have. I would get these an oil alarm from time to time. I took it to the dealer and they replaced the oil pressure regulator but the alarm would still popup from time to time. So I decided to completely upgrade my cooling system to save my engine (90,000).

I started with upgrading my radiator to an aluminum one.
 
Can007

Can007

Well-Known Member
Messages
360
Location
Palmdale, CA
Sorry have problems uploading pics but will when I can.

2. I changed my water pump, Hoses and thermos stat and obviously flushed the system.

3. I decided to add electric Pusher fans on an automatic switch. So the fans turn on based on the temp setting I put.

4. I decided to be a little aggressive and install hood vents/ louvers

5. Currently, I am installing a trans cooler. Halfway done
 

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Can007

Can007

Well-Known Member
Messages
360
Location
Palmdale, CA
Just 100% completed my trans cooler install. No leaks so far. I will drive to work today (100 miles both ways) and see how it performs. It will be 92 degree so good test.
 
Can007

Can007

Well-Known Member
Messages
360
Location
Palmdale, CA
Well... My h3 still runs hot!!! Only when driving up the steep hwy. I am a little lost for words. I will now replace the fan clutch. Maybe that's causing the problem.

I did notice something odd... the temp on the rear mirror way higher than it actually was. Maybe this has something to do with the problem as well. Back to the drawing board.
 
amrg

amrg

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Your mirror temp reading is affected by the trans cooler. The sensor is either in contact with the cooler, or now sitting behind the cooler and reading the temp of the hot air after it passes through the cooler.

You just need to move the sensor somewhere else

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 
GreatDaneHummer

GreatDaneHummer

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Messages
994
Location
Chicago
What affect would it have if you removed the center crash pillar between the fans and did a metal fan shroud that still bolted in to support the frame area? Just been thinking about how to redue my setup for better air flow. I will say that you cannot trust the temp gauge in the H3. It was showing 3/4 of the way up but I had actual coolant temps of 187.
 
amrg

amrg

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What 06H3 said. The shroud will limit airflow at highway speeds. In a puller setup a shroud helps pull air through thr entire core (while preventing hot air from engine side being sucked to the fan) but in a pusher setup it wont do anything.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 
06 H3

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,352
Location
Meridian, ID
If your still running a factory radiator that's probably why. That csf aluminum one is pretty good from what I hear

My 150 what aluminum radiator is a piece of **** IMO. Runs hotter then it did with the factory rad. I may jump to csf or oem
 
GreatDaneHummer

GreatDaneHummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
994
Location
Chicago
The CSF is a nice all aluminum radiator and I have not had any of the leaking issues that others have. I replaced all the hoses, thermostat and water pump with it. I am using a 12" pusher fan in the front but honestly when I run the 12" fan the fan clutch never kicks in from the coolant staying at 187 even in the heat from last summer in Chicago. My fan clutch stuck on when I was in Colorado and I was not able to get another one so I removed it and ran the 12" fan non stop. I still stayed cool enough to get back to Denver to replace the fan clutch. The CSF has better cooling for your trans also which is one of the reasons I purchased it.
 
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