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What did you do with your H3 recently? NEW

cgalpha08

"Like Nothing Else"
Messages
3,584
Location
Indianapolis, IN
What are the benefits of running these?

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In general they are stronger than stock. Steel vs aluminum. We can argue over heim vs rubber bushings and longevity blah blah blah lol but it doesn't matter to me as this isn't a daily anymore and is for weekend/wheeling use and with proper lubrication should be just fine. If they were going on my daily I probably would have gone with poly bushings instead of heims. The other positive is that I can rebuild the entire arm instead of having to buy a complete control arm.

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Panzer07

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,548
Location
Ontario, CA
Teaser of what I'm working on...
7415a34547e304e0005c9c11ca312495.jpg

Let's just say that having to get my 40"s spare tire up and down next year it is not going to be an issue.
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Panzer07

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,548
Location
Ontario, CA
I am a little surprised that a Rhino lift will fit on an H3 bumper. I will have to look at mine. Easiest way to load an H1 spare for sure.
It will fit but some brackets do need to be made...nothing difficult as I just discovered.
Only down side is see is that the right mounting sticks out, this might be an issue for some.
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(I'm do not worry about it getting stock on something since hopefully next year there will be 40/2" on panzer if the 35"s wear down by then)
For me it works good and I won't cut it off since...I'll use those to bolt on a bracket that I'm going to fab shortly in order to secure my DWF Exhaust,
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I first secured it to the antenna mount bracket. But I think now with this new mounting point it will be sturdier and a better option.

Anyways it is all bolted and functional per say...with the ghetto brackets I make to get it to work with some spare metal I had laying around.
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This week I'm going to get some steel and cut my brackets and have it all done hopefully.


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JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,400
Location
Way up north, UT
Do you have to lift up the arm a bit to be able to swing it out? Or does it just unlatch easily? If you have to lift it up every time to swing it out then that seems it would get a bit annoying after a while.
 

Panzer07

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,548
Location
Ontario, CA
Do you have to lift up the arm a bit to be able to swing it out? Or does it just unlatch easily? If you have to lift it up every time to swing it out then that seems it would get a bit annoying after a while.
Yes unfortunately u must crank it up a bit to free it out...yes it could get annoying per say if you use the swing gate a lot, (I personally hardly ever open it)...but IMHO the gains are worth the extra 5-10 sec it would take to free it probably just as much as pulling pins from other designs. Anywyas Now I can add a spare tire rack above, probably some jerry cans on the left if I decide to extend the bottom arm. My main reason why I wanted the rino tire carrier is so if my wife ever has to change a flat it is easier for her to get the tire up and down or myself for that matter since I plan on going to 40/2"s when the 35"s are done, as well with this carrier I take the tire weigh off the door another reason is so this way I can take off the rear swing gate and still have a spare tire and the small room on the trunk area for wheeling trips.

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jphh20

Well-Known Member
Messages
173
Location
CT
Finally got to pull my transfer case that would not lock out. Replaced the shift fork, new chain and cleaned the magnet/oil strainer. After 96k miles and 20k mile fluid change intervals it looked really good. Transfer case shifts smoothly between all modes...

Thanks to this forum, I was able to find some great write ups and method for removal without dropping the cross member. Fairly easy job.


IMG]http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161122/2ac5164b0e8d8cacf4ccde8aaded6654.jpg[/IMG]
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USMC_TOP

Well-Known Member
Messages
491
Location
Muir Michigan
Put new t case in last Saturday. It was as easy as I remember on other GM trucks 20 years ago. I can really feel the difference. I use to have an amount of drivetrain lash that seems to be gone now as is the lack of four wheel drive I was suffering from before.


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Woodtick

Well-Known Member
Messages
801
Location
Ilanoid, UP MI
Finally got to pull my transfer case that would not lock out. Replaced the shift fork, new chain and cleaned the magnet/oil strainer. After 96k miles and 20k mile fluid change intervals it looked really good. Transfer case shifts smoothly between all modes...

Thanks to this forum, I was able to find some great write ups and method for removal without dropping the cross member. Fairly easy job.


IMG]http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161122/2ac5164b0e8d8cacf4ccde8aaded6654.jpg[/IMG]
feb43530e1bff40cd133b563e5623eb3.jpg
9e11c12f6106c55af8ffd5521e84dd84.jpg
ad28fe3df8cc7ae4b2ffd454be66ae71.jpg



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I need to do this! Still rolling the plastic fork for ten years. I'm about to be bit any day now.
 

Bart1972

Member
Messages
5
Location
97527
Hey Shrubf4,

I just put a new set of 315/71r16 Courser MSTs on my stock H3 wheels. Pick a tire that suites your style of driving and if you're worried about mileage stick with the stock tires. I chose the MXTs mainly because I live in the woods and hate being stuck anywhere due to poor roads. So to put 35s on I only cranked the t-bars 2 complete turns and had enough space for the tires to clear when the frame contacted the bump stop.
Schwarttzy has an excellent lay out for t-bar cranking and an in depth of how to here: http://schwarttzy.com/lifting-the-h3-hummer/
Hope this helps.
 

Bruces

Well-Known Member
Messages
215
Location
Portland, TN
I looked and could not find the link to the thread to replace the fork in the transfer. Any how to steps for that and chain would be appreciated.
 

jphh20

Well-Known Member
Messages
173
Location
CT
Chain stretch.


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Very true, I just serviced my transfer case with a new chain and noticed a seat of the pants improvement in driveline backlash.


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amrg

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,317
Location
Qatar
Day 31 of not having my 3 is hitting hard :banghead:
Wait till you reach Day 280!

Engine swap, exhaust work, cooling disasters, trans rebuild, leaking oil pans (all parts to be shipped overseas from the states)

Today was the first day I do a 70 mile drive after engine break in and its awesome!
 

Woodtick

Well-Known Member
Messages
801
Location
Ilanoid, UP MI
Thanks CJ at Thor parts. Great quality bumper,a few trail spares and homemade cookies for my daughter . There was an offer of a glass of red,but I had a 200 mile ride home. Sorry about the Jeep in the driveway.
 

Romeo

Well-Known Member
Messages
166
Location
New York City
I've been getting misfires for the past few months and finally decided to do something about it since I need an inspection due thus month. P0301 (Cylinder 1 misfire) is the code that comes up. Decided to change all coil packs and all plugs since I'm at 102k miles and don't recall the last time all were replaced. Water was definitely sitting in a few cylinder as you can see the corrosion on the coil packs. Drives like a new truck again.
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Going to replace my K&N intake with AFE Dry Pro S (just came in today)

Replacing my Delco battery with a Odyssey Extreme

Replacing stock battery terminals with XScorpion digital terminals from Amazon.

These will likely be the last upgrades I get done by the end of this year.

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JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,400
Location
Way up north, UT
What year are those from Romeo?
I just did my spark plugs and your coil packs look totally different from mine. Or are those from the V8 and you just happened to only show 5 of them to confuse me? :)
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,212
Location
Tardville
Romeo...thanks for posting those pics. I work on H3's quite a bit, and I've found this same issue on nearly all of em. As soon as someone complains of a rough idle or gets a random misfire code...I automatically look at the coil paks first. I believe this problem is amplified by the holes in the hood (for the goofy fake louver thing), so I removed mine a long time ago and came up with a really beautiful and high-tech fix.

I put electrical tape over the holes, so rain water won't collect and get funneled directly onto the top of the motor (and into the plug wells). Recently my electrical tape has curled up, so I need to either fix it properly by welding the holes shut, or apply some new electrical tape! The last patch was good for 2-1/2 years.
 
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