hmmwv 6.2/6.5 turbo thoughts

This may be a stupid question, but since the intake and exhaust manifolds are the same one the 6.2 and 6.5 (at least that's what i've gathered) then wouldnt an h1/van turbo bolt straight onto one of the exhaust manifolds. Then if need be the rest of the piping and tubing could be custom cut and everything? I'll post a link to the exact one i'm talking about but it almost looks like it was meant to bolt straight onto a stock em. I have yet to find out if its waste gate is fully mechanical and preset, but it looks promising. The hummer line of vehicles have always interested me and this is something that ive been playing around with in my head. Any suggestion or positive criticism is welcome. Also what are y'alls thoughts on plan b supply, they're pretty cool imo.
http://www.buyautoparts.com/plabuyn...ljEoYfFSsvbQYjjIt5itSlkm5yP10qB19OxoCZ1vw_wcB

The heavy duty Chevy vans did share the same engines as the H1. I have not looked at adding a turbo but would assume you could. Not sure what, if any, differences there are between the turbo/non turbo set ups.

rjwilson said:

This may be a stupid question, but since the intake and exhaust manifolds are the same one the 6.2 and 6.5 (at least that's what i've gathered) then wouldnt an h1/van turbo bolt straight onto one of the exhaust manifolds. Then if need be the rest of the piping and tubing could be custom cut and everything? I'll post a link to the exact one i'm talking about but it almost looks like it was meant to bolt straight onto a stock em. I have yet to find out if its waste gate is fully mechanical and preset, but it looks promising. The hummer line of vehicles have always interested me and this is something that ive been playing around with in my head. Any suggestion or positive criticism is welcome. Also what are y'alls thoughts on plan b supply, they're pretty cool imo.
http://www.buyautoparts.com/plabuyn...ljEoYfFSsvbQYjjIt5itSlkm5yP10qB19OxoCZ1vw_wcB

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I have a 1986 M998 HMMWV, and in theory it should fit. You will have to modify some pipes and stuff to make it fit sure. Just keep in mind, not all HMMWV's come with vacuum pumps, so you will either need to modify your engine to fit one in, or modify the exhaust side of the turbo charger to remove the waste gate all together. It's lots of fun to try and shoe horn all that junk in there.

So here are my thoughts on this, and what I've found thus far.


My H1 is a 6.5 N/A, and I have a complete 6.5 TD engine sitting in my shop that I can use for parts. Obvious thing to do, would be to take all of the 6.5 turbo parts off and bolt them directly to my 6.5 N/A. That's my plan, but it looks like there is at least 1 issue with doing that.
My 6.5 N/A runs the 4L80e transmission. Apparently, the RPM signal for the transmission comes from a sensor/pickup that is driven off of the cam gear (much like a distributor would be on a small block gas engine). That pickup is occupying the same hole that the 6.5 turbo would drain into.
Not exactly sure what I'm going to do there.

However, on your 6.2, you probably don't have that issue. Also, one of the best running chevy diesel engines that I have ever driven (other than new duramax of course) was a 6.2 engine with 6.5 heads and turbo. The added compression of the 6.2 with the turbo setup made for a pretty peppy truck. It was in a 4wd crew cab dually, and it would easily spin the tires if you got on it.

Ooooh, I think I know what you mean. I think I have that RPM sensor to on my cam shaft for my 6.2 L engine just above the connection to my 3L80 transmission on my HMMWV. However that RPM sensor switch feeds signals to my STE/ICE (Simple Test Equipment for Internal Combustion Engines) port by the parking break handle.You might be able to modify the turbo placement slightly outward over that sensor, and do some fancy pipe fitting work to work around where the dog house fits over that area. However personally, I know this sucks and it's easier said then done, but if I were you, I would completely rebuild that 6.5 TD engine with upgraded parts (like this cam shaft http://www.rubberduck4x4.com/store/pc/Hummer-H1-Performance-Camshaft-94p8832.htm or http://www.rubberduck4x4.com/store/pc/Hummer-H1-Upgraded-Turbo-95p8823.htm) and stuff it into your H1.

adventr said:

So here are my thoughts on this, and what I've found thus far.


My H1 is a 6.5 N/A, and I have a complete 6.5 TD engine sitting in my shop that I can use for parts. Obvious thing to do, would be to take all of the 6.5 turbo parts off and bolt them directly to my 6.5 N/A. That's my plan, but it looks like there is at least 1 issue with doing that.
My 6.5 N/A runs the 4L80e transmission. Apparently, the RPM signal for the transmission comes from a sensor/pickup that is driven off of the cam gear (much like a distributor would be on a small block gas engine). That pickup is occupying the same hole that the 6.5 turbo would drain into.
Not exactly sure what I'm going to do there.

However, on your 6.2, you probably don't have that issue. Also, one of the best running chevy diesel engines that I have ever driven (other than new duramax of course) was a 6.2 engine with 6.5 heads and turbo. The added compression of the 6.2 with the turbo setup made for a pretty peppy truck. It was in a 4wd crew cab dually, and it would easily spin the tires if you got on it.

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Could you share some pictures of your 6.5 with the turbo and everything, so i can see how the exhaust manifold and turbo body hook up. I don't personally have the 6.2 hmmwv... YET, but an ex military friend of mine will have his within the year. As for the van turbo set up it has been a little hard to find those parts, so a good amount would probably be custom, but that is half the fun. Also thanks for the 6.5 head recommendation, i have not heard of that mod until now, def something to look into when beefing up a 6.2.

FenrisUltra said:

Ooooh, I think I know what you mean. I think I have that RPM sensor to on my cam shaft for my 6.2 L engine just above the connection to my 3L80 transmission on my HMMWV. However that RPM sensor switch feeds signals to my STE/ICE (Simple Test Equipment for Internal Combustion Engines) port by the parking break handle.You might be able to modify the turbo placement slightly outward over that sensor, and do some fancy pipe fitting work to work around where the dog house fits over that area. However personally, I know this sucks and it's easier said then done, but if I were you, I would completely rebuild that 6.5 TD engine with upgraded parts (like this cam shaft http://www.rubberduck4x4.com/store/pc/Hummer-H1-Performance-Camshaft-94p8832.htm or http://www.rubberduck4x4.com/store/pc/Hummer-H1-Upgraded-Turbo-95p8823.htm) and stuff it into your H1.

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Are 6.2 and 6.5 camshafts interchangeable? I read somewhere that they had the same part numbers, better safe than sorry though. It'd be awesome if that performance shaft would fit in a 6.2.

Well, I read all 3 books that The Diesel Page people created (http://www.thedieselpage.com/) on the 6.2 L engine. From what I read, the 6.2 and 6.5 L engines are the exact same thing (I think), it's the cylinder heads that are different assuming I read that correctly. In theory, I can't see any reason why that cam shaft can't work in the 6.2 L engine. However, I don't think you would notice any performance differences in the 6.2 L engine, you might, I don't want to discount that ability, but I'm not sure. It probably has to be at least turbo charged first. There was a project these guys covered on the 6.2 L engine by using a 1980's blazer, where they wanted to put twin turbo chargers onto the engine (one for each side). They did there experiment and found out they had no better performance then using the Banks Turbo charger kit (consisting of only 1 turbo charger) for the 6.2 L engine. The reason for this is because of the injectors and the injector pump, you could pump in as much air as you want into that engine, without matching the fuel mixture rates going into the engine, you will never see the kind of power your expecting. There was a delicate balance to air/fuel mixture, to much of one and not enough of another won't give you any more power and they proved that. However in 1993, all additions, and enhancements to the 6.2L was completely discontinued and all additional engineering went to the 6.5. Banks came out with this kit for the HMMWV http://www.bankspower.com/news/show/77-The-Three-Latest-Diesel-Engine-Projects#HMMWV which has new injectors, injector pump, turbo air intake upgrade, and exhaust break.

I should probably ask that question on the Diesel Page forum as these guys specifically specialize in the study of these engines, http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/ so I can't give you a definite answer to the cam shaft question, it would probably fit, but would you notice anything different? I don't know the answer to that question without experimenting with it myself, sorry.

There are multiple differences between NA (naturally Aspirated) and Turbo engines for the 6.2/6.5 engines. I'm sure I'm missing some. AFAIK, the 6.2 and 6.5 difference between NAs is the bore.

The Heads are different allowing different compression ratios. The Turbo blocks have oil squirters which lower oil pressure but keep the engine cooler. as well as putting a turbo on a NA block would most likely result in Number 8 cylinder issues like the Turbo blocks had until they were updated.

The RPM on an NA engine is measured via the TPS (throttle position sensor) attached to the IP (Injection Pump). if the TPS is going out and or faulty it will mess with your shifts in various possible ways. increased shift firmness, transmission not upshifting at higher rpms, overdrive not engaging, etc.

What's your budget? Usually it's cheaper to sell the 6.2/3 speed then buy a 6.5 turbo/4 speed than it is to convert it.


You can't just "bolt a turbo on". Especially if you want to keep things military, just from the top of my head:You need a "turbo" block, or you are spending time/machining a non turbo block which may not be ideal and may fail down the road [there are many blocks, 599, 141, 506, etc]. Some blocks may not have the oil passages needed.

You'll need:

New exhaust headers, new intake, new transmission, new body harness, body lift to fit the stuff, new fuel tank new drive shafts, new yolks, new crossmember, new ECU, TPS/Transmission controller, new throttle, different coolant lines.

If you are paying someone else to do the work you might as well do a duramax/cummins swap or get another truck. If you are doing it yourself it can be a fun project but I'd only do it if this was your second H1/HMMWV or if you have access to a friends/relatives H1/HMMWV on a regular basis to have a "spare truck" to do comparisons on

If I had a 6.2/6.5 N/A that I'd want more power from I'd probably look into getting a modest injection pump upgrade and a marine supercharger setup and go that route.

All the little fiddly bits is what kills you on the swaps.

Expendable hit on another thing, although there are turbo blocks that don't have the oil squirters [pre 506 castings]. I don't believe there is any turbo setup with the 3 speed transmission at all, that's where the hidden cost creeps in, swapping the entire drive train and doing the lifts/fuel tank changes, etc to make everything work.

Kurt said:

What's your budget? Usually it's cheaper to sell the 6.2/3 speed then buy a 6.5 turbo/4 speed than it is to convert it.


You can't just "bolt a turbo on".

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Yes you can... http://www.ebay.com/itm/BANKS-SIDEW...m19c5bd4d89:m:mjqF_to2xpg96faTABezQoQ&vxp=mtr banks turbo kit for the 6.2 L engine. If you have a HMMWV all you need is the manifold, intake component, oil hose, and the turbo, the rest of that kit goes in the garbage. You take your oil pan off, inspect your block for cracks, if there isn't you put it back on (if there is...no turbo for you). You will need to do some of your own pipe fitting, but that's easy to do, connect the intake to the filter output, the exhaust gets routed under the engine and over to the drivers side hooking back up to the original muffler (this way it can remain deep water fordable). The oil port is close to were the engine connects to the transmission on the driver side. You will have to remove the splash guard on the front passenger side wheel and re-fit a new one to go around the turbo charger. There you go that's it, you can even get crazy and put a super cooler on over the rad with some fancy pipe fitting work. If you have the H1 from 92/93 with the 6.2 L engine, you can do the same, you just have to do some fancy work to the wheel guard, more so then the HMMWV.

There's space issues with a side mount turbo, even the banks sidewinter kit for the HMMWV uses a center mount turbo for this reason.

If you want to chop bits off the HMMWV then I suspose that's one way to get a side mount to work. Either by moving the air filter can around ore replacing it with something else, then cutting off the air lift arms on the front end, you would still probably need a body lift to buy you more room. Hopefully you won't have to cut into the passenger side body.

I've seen guys throw insane amount mounts of time/ money at H1/HMMWV modification, you would be one of the first with a side mount turbo.

Deleting the air lift arms would free up a lot of room for other modification [you could put in a much wider radiator in for example].

I'm telling you, there is nothing to it. That charger was actually ment for things like a blazer but its the same engine. The splash panel (or rock guard panel as it's classified in the manual) is just a plastic piece that is held onto the frame with about 3 bolts. You don't have to touch anything but the exhaust pipes, the filer and body can stay just right where they are. You just form a pipe to the turbo which will fit on that manifold and be pointed upward diagonally and you clamp it to the original Hummer/HMMWV filter. You will need to pull off the CDR valve, and redirect the hose to connect to the air intake just after the filter but just before the turbo or you will blow it up, so you will need to pipe fit a splice into in the intake line. The exhaust manifold on the driver side stays just right were it is, no need to touch it at all. The pipe comes from under the engine like it normally does, and feeds right back up to the manifold on the passenger side, then you run another pipe from the passenger side (coming off the turbo) back down to the muffler going under the truck. You then need to fashion up an aluminum guard to replace the one you took off (the plastic one) so rocks and debris don't strike the side of the engine with the tires. H1's maybe a little more work, because I think that guard is also used to hold the batteries in place where as the HMMWV has them under the passenger side seat.

Also I'm wouldn't mind upgrading the engine personally 6.5, but I wouldn't want that 4 speed transmission, I would fit the 3 speed one back on, my 3L80. The 4 speed transmission has electronic parts in it, as it stands right now, the only thing electronic that controls my HMMWV is the protective control box behind the steering wheel which controls the glow plugs. It's ironic, I specialize in engineering electronic stuff, and oddly enough, I want nothing electronic in my truck. There is no such thing as reliable electronics, the best electronic item is no electronic items at all.

Always wanted to try a turbo mod some day as I'm n/a motor, but lol afraid it would be a can O worms....