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humvee
11-07-2015, 05:00 PM
Sold my engine and signed a contract that states it has to be out by Dec 15. Also rented a Wrangler YJ for the duration of this build.
I work in Film production, so my schedule is quite hectic and my mechanical knowhow isn't anywhere near where it should be for this sort of build.
Hoping to get the needed support from this wonderful community.

I have a 2009 H3 3.7L (South African model).
Installing the 5.3 off a 2009 H3 (also a South African model).

On paper, this should be very straight forward. But I need to be careful. This is being done in Qatar, parts take up to 15 days to arrive so I'll need to have everything ready for installation before I begin.

Going through Chris' thread 'New motor', feel I'm in way over my head.

The 5.3 has 100k miles on it. I'm only getting the engine and torque converter, possibly also the downpipes.
Here's the initial list I made, I can really use some help identifying what I need to buy and what I could re-use.

- AC lines
- AC compressor
- accumulator
- AC condenser
- water pump
- power steering pump
- power steering lines
- ECU
- Oil Pan
- Wiring Harness
- Engine mounts
- Fuel pump
- Fuel lines
- starter
- intake manifold
- alpha rad hoses
- alpha MAF sensor
- Fuel lines

What do you guys think?

humvee
11-07-2015, 05:09 PM
Here's my 3

http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=20023&stc=1http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=20024&stc=1

CaseyS
11-07-2015, 05:29 PM
Transmission.

OR. Bell housing, input shaft, and a shop to install those for you.

humvee
11-07-2015, 05:36 PM
Thanks C. Added to the list.

The swap will happen at a friend's shop, also amrg will be helping me throughout.

Could really use your and chris' input on what I should expect to replace, and what I can re-use.



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amrg
11-07-2015, 06:35 PM
You don't need a fuel pump I believe, and neither an ECU, a maf sensor (IIRC the I5 2009 has a similar box and maf sensor as the alphas) and the Intake manifold (its comes with the engine). You will need intake tubing to get the engine connected to the airbox...

RamRod
11-07-2015, 06:56 PM
You will want the cast headers off the H3 Alpha... to clear the frame rails that is

3Hummers
11-07-2015, 06:56 PM
I am sure Chris will be happy to help.

CaseyS
11-07-2015, 07:27 PM
Add fluids to your list. I assume you have some type of hardware store nearby for the random bolts you will surely have to chase down.

SuperBuickGuy
11-07-2015, 08:19 PM
LHD H3 using a RHD motor? I think you may be in for issues - but I don't know because I've never seen (in person) a RHD H3.

humvee
11-07-2015, 11:25 PM
Thanks… Both engines are LHD out of the same factory in SA.
At this point, I should mention that this wouldn't be possible if it wasn't for Chris' detailed build thread. I'm aiming to do my share and posting as many details as possible.

I'll dig a little deeper with the MAF sensor.
Bolts might be a problem, certain thread/shank/head combinations are just not sold here.

Some things to consider
- Should I get an engine rebuild kit? All new gaskets and seals at least?
- Should I install a mild cam while I'm in there? :shifty:

humvee
12-27-2015, 07:29 PM
So after a bit of research, I'm ready to pull the trigger on the following Cam from Summit Racing.

Cam
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cca-189-400-13/overview/

Valve Spring Kit
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cca-26918cs-kit/overview/

Lower Gasket Kit
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/fel-cs9284/overview/

Upper
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/fel-hs26190pt2/overview/

I'd love to see my bill shrink a bit, any of the above considered overkill?

RamRod
12-27-2015, 09:15 PM
Links on my phone don't go directly to the part, i'll try again later

06 H3
12-27-2015, 10:14 PM
Sorry I missed this thread. I can help with whatever you got going on. What point are you at?

humvee
12-28-2015, 05:19 PM
Thanks Chris, I'm still trying to gather all the parts.

I could really use your input on the motor mount and oil pan, you had ordered them from:
http://www.currentperformance.com/shop/04-08-colorado-canyon-v8-engine-mounts/
http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Performance/809/19212593/10002/-1

Was this the setup you ended up with?

humvee
12-28-2015, 05:37 PM
Had a long chat with a rep from Comp Cams... The cam I had selected was wrong. Here's the new list (without the gaskets)

CAM
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=1431&sb=0

SPRINGS
http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=CC&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=26918CS-KIT

LIFTERS
http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=CC&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=850-16

PUSH RODS
http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=CC&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=7955-16

He said the push rods should be ordered after we install the new cam and take some measurements.
Its a mild cam, so I'm thinking of getting just the cam and beehive springs, and call it a day.

Thoughts?

humvee
01-10-2016, 06:15 PM
I'll start my update with a BIG thank you to Chris, who spent a chunk of his evening answering my questions and guiding me through this swap.

I dropped off my 3 at my buddy's shop today, his guys will remove the old motor and hand it to the buyer tomorrow. I had to pull the trigger because I signed the engine over to him back in November. Work is still getting in the way of following up with this, but my plan to commit and hand over the engine is working at least.

Cancelled plans to cam the engine, I'll just drop it in as is, and put the 4.56s to work
Going with a custom harness, will be reaching out to Jamie for that, and see what he can do.
Still trying to source motor accessories that I can't recycle and Chris really helped me out with this.

So if all goes right, I'll be able to retain the power steering pump, starter, condenser and radiator.
If anyone has seen a totalled Alpha with an intact'ish engine bay, I'd appreciate a link or a number.

Looking for the following stock alpha parts:
Bell housing
AC Compressor & lines
Air Box & MAF sensor
Oil Pan

Will update with photographs staring tomorrow :)

06 H3
01-10-2016, 09:52 PM
No problem. It was good talking to you. I would see if Zach can help you out on OEM parts but I am not sure he can ship them across the world? He probably can but I would talk to him. His name is Zach on the forum. He can get all that stuff. You can use an aftermarket intake for an alpha if you want. Since your 5.3 is from an alpha you don't need an ac compressor just the lines. I needed a compressor since my 5.3 was from a different vehicle with a different compressor.

You should add the fan shroud to the list. That made a big difference in cooling and the I5 has a different shroud

humvee
01-11-2016, 03:52 PM
Thanks! Adding shroud to the list and will reach out to Zach.

I found this oil pan on the same site you got yours from, it says its what I need but its a different link than the one you posted on page 9 of your thread.
http://www.currentperformance.com/shop/gm-muscle-car-oil-pan-kit/

What do you think? They wont pick up the phone or reply to Emails.

humvee
01-11-2016, 04:20 PM
Now for the update!

The i5 is out and its new owner just picked it up. Took the 3 back home to make room in the shop for other trucks, until the new motor mounts and accessories arrive.

http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=20367&stc=1

http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=20368&stc=1

Harness ready to be shipped out. Am I missing something here?
http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=20369&stc=1http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=20371&stc=1


http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=20370&stc=1

Tomorrow I'm going scouting for LH8 accessories off a Hummer or Chevy, see if I can score anything.

-AC lines/ Exhaust manifold/ Air box/ Oil pan / Power steering lines (off an H3 Alpha)
-Bell housing/ MAF sensor (Silverado/ Sierra/ Tahoe/ H3 etc)

Anything I can find at this point would be great.

amrg
01-11-2016, 05:25 PM
Good luck on the swap!

humvee
01-13-2016, 05:37 PM
The new motor is out of the alpha and I'm gathering the last remaining parts. I'm struggling with one part in particular.
The input forward drum (or input shaft) and reluctor, according to Jamie, who builds harnesses for Colorado conversions, I'll need to replace my i5 unit with one from a V8.

Struggling to find it or any decent info about what parts I need to change along with it (beings seals, connectors etc.)
Anyone have a part number for this?

humvee
01-13-2016, 06:22 PM
Some initial thoughts on the conversion so far.

Obviously Chris' research and documentation of his build made this a lot easier, but quite frankly swapping an '09 i5 to a 5.3 is a lot easier, and so far... very straight forward.

If you're just getting the 5.3 engine without the accessories, there are just a few essential things.

You can reuse your alternator, but in my case, I need to source the pulley frame that it is mounted on. The motor I got didn't come with this, the owner has use for it on his own build. This comes from any Silverado (which in Qatar is harder to find than in the US). You'll have to get the relevant power steering pump, which attaches to the side of the same frame.
Before I get this pump, I'm going to try and see if the i5 pump can be reused.
http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=20385&stc=1http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=20386&stc=1


Depending on the motor you get, you may also need to source the frame which the compressor mounts on to. Its a different compressor than the i5 and mounts on the passenger side of the engine.
http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=20387&stc=1

Every person on earth doing an LH8 conversion should contact Jamie regarding the harness. He knows his wiring, and can set you up with a custom harness with no headache. In my case, he's working off some photos I sent him and I couldn't be happier. He can also take care of your program and tune for you.

In addition to this:
- You'll either need custom or alpha specific AC lines.
- An input shaft/reluctor for the transmission... that I'm still struggling with, but I'm a serious mechanical amateur. I'm sure it would be much easier for most to identify this.
- Custom or Alpha fuel lines
- An Air box
- Engine mounts from currentperformance.com
- Exhaust manifold / headers :)
- Custom or alpha downpipe / exhaust
- Oil Pan (depending on what truck you get your motor from)
- Hoses, seals, gaskets, o2 sensors.

I may be missing a couple of things, and probably add a few more, so I'll come back to this post and edit the list as I go.

humvee
01-13-2016, 07:44 PM
UPDATE. I may have spoken a bit too soon. Jamie was telling me that the input shaft is a big job, requires dropping and opening up the transmission, and there aren't any decent transmission shops here.

Now he did mention that this is something Colorado 3.7 owners have to do when going to a 5.3 while retaining their stock tranny. He cannot confirm from experience that this is the case with Hummers, but we doubt it would be different.

This is the link to the part he's talking about, this is for the V8...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4L65E-INPUT-FORWARD-DRUM-300MM-07-UP-GM-CHEVY-CHEVROLET-QUALITY-ASSURED-/281469981170?hash=item4188eb11f2:g:spwAAOSwpDdVCEG a&vxp=mtr


What do you guys think?

CaseyS
01-13-2016, 10:57 PM
http://www.bulkpart.com/2/product/D74554GA.html

Yes, it is not a small project. If you are starting with your hummer transmission, you will need to drop the pan, pull the lockup solenoid, just to be able to pull the pump put of the transmission. Then you can get the band out and pull the input drum. The input drum is loaded with two sets of clutches that you will need to unpack and load into the new drum. Then put it all back together correctly. In addition with a reluctor and input speed sensor (ISS) you need the internal transmission wiring harness that has the wiring for that sensor. In addition you need the ISS itself.

At this point once you have the transmission pulled and the pump and input drum out, you are more than halfway into the labor of a full rebuild. Might as well throw a rebuild kit into it and upgrade a few hard parts. Here in the states, you should be able to get a rebuild with labor around $800 if the trans is already pulled. If you have the drum and parts, it shouldn't cost any extra. You will also need a new torque converter, your old one won't work.

This is all if you are starting with the hummer trans. If you do like Chris did and that's start with the LS v8 trans, then you need to swap the hummer specific trans parts. Valve body, 1-2 accumulator, pan, and output adapter. A much easier job.

humvee
01-14-2016, 06:28 AM
Thanks for the step by step, gave me perspective of the workflow. And Yikes that drum is pricey... It says reluctor included so that answered my other question.
I got the engine with its original torque converter, and the bell housing is on order so this should be the last piece of the puzzle.

Found this input shaft seal on rockauto: ACDELCO 8667035.. Is this the one?

Regarding the ISS, I understand the 09 i5 transmission will have it? Jamie took a look at my harness and confirmed that there is a wire for it. Hope I'm not misinformed on this.

I do wish I was in the States, could just sell my tranny and find an Alpha unit elsewhere. I'm glad I didn't go into this build with knowledge of the input drum, would've backed down... Only way to go now is forward!

Wish I could go for the Tranny upgrade, but I'm quite low on funds with all the accessories on order... I know I'll be kicking myself later.

amrg
01-14-2016, 06:42 AM
Do you mind posting part numbers/prices/links of everything you got in 1 place so anyone interested in following can know what to expect?
Good luck on the build!

humvee
01-14-2016, 08:09 AM
At the moment, the parts I need are as follows: UPDATED PARTS ON PAGE 7

Bell Housing - ACDELCO 24236707
Power steering pump - ACDELCO 25932020
Input Drum w/reluctor - http://www.bulkpart.com/2/product/D74554GA.html
Engine mounts - http://www.currentperformance.com/shop/04-08-colorado-canyon-v8-engine-mounts/
Alternator pulley mount - n/a
AC Compressor - ACDELCO 1522146
AC Compressor mounting bracket - n/a
Custom or alpha specific AC lines - n/a
Custom or Alpha fuel lines - n/a
Air intake assembly - http://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=3033947&ukey_assembly=391908
Exhaust manifold - http://www.discountoeparts.com/auto-parts/2009/hummer/h3/alpha-trim/5-3l-v8-gas-engine/exhaust-system-cat/exhaust-manifold-scat
Custom or alpha downpipe / exhaust - n/a
Engine Oil Pan - http://www.currentperformance.com/shop/gm-muscle-car-oil-pan-kit/

I'll update the n/a parts as I go along, and add more to the list.

CaseyS
01-14-2016, 10:01 AM
You will need this

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/AS/ASEMaster35yrs/2013-05-06_034613_700r4-4l60e.jpg
(http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/AS/ASEMaster35yrs/2013-05-06_034613_700r4-4l60e.jpg)
And here are the best videos on the web that I used for my teardown

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQgQIyIhI0o (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EkyPoeAcxOI)

And rebuild

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EkyPoeAcxOI

And this for some bathroom reading of you get really bored

https://www.dropbox.com/s/q14qjpo7mgqprz2/4L60E.pdf (https://www.dropbox.com/s/q14qjpo7mgqprz2/4L60E.pdf)

humvee
01-14-2016, 10:12 AM
Wow C thank you, I'll study these and put em up on a board for the guys.. My mechanic buddy went nuts when I told him I was opting out of the tranny upgrade kit..
Do you have a link to the kit you got? I looked through the threads but didn't get anywhere.

My better half is gonna be thrilled...

JPaul
01-14-2016, 10:21 AM
I'm glad to see a detailed thread about doing this swap into a 2008+ model, now I can see just what all will go into it if I decide to do the same with mine. Everything else I had found was for 2006-2007 which have several differences in the swap, but it was never clear what exactly they were.

CaseyS
01-14-2016, 10:43 AM
More information for you. That seal that you have listed looks like the teflon o-rings that go on the input shaft. There are 4 of them. GM requires a special tool to install them and then compress them back down into the grooves. If this is not done right, you will get cross leaking and the transmission wont function right. I think on the 300mm shaft there is also a small o ring that goes on the end. If you don't have all of these little parts you may be sitting a long time waiting on shipping.

I found this site that has an older style shaft (this one won't fit your application) that comes preloaded with rings, clutches ready to install.

https://www.gmtransmissionparts.com/remanufactured-performance-input-drum-assembly-4l60e-1993-up/?gclid=Cj0KEQiAq920BRC8-efn57XrotYBEiQAlVlMQ7SXLb0zKtf1iZVi-DlgiV6o1FJ-WmAH3ekwF11hokwaAngx8P8HAQ
(https://www.gmtransmissionparts.com/remanufactured-performance-input-drum-assembly-4l60e-1993-up/?gclid=Cj0KEQiAq920BRC8-efn57XrotYBEiQAlVlMQ7SXLb0zKtf1iZVi-DlgiV6o1FJ-WmAH3ekwF11hokwaAngx8P8HAQ)
You may want to reach out to them and see if they could build you up one with the 2006 up input drum just like that one. Note that this is a reman drum, but you get everything in it for almost the same price as a new drum. This would save you a LOT of work.

Link to the shaft seals

https://www.gmtransmissionparts.com/input-shaft-teflon-sealing-ring-kit-700r4-4l60e-1982-up-4-rings/?gclid=Cj0KEQiAq920BRC8-efn57XrotYBEiQAlVlMQ2WfLZVn5i9RK4o1kP6t-Uq2aAQnssT9k7eQdM-ZyXMaAh2f8P8HAQ

I also searched and there are videos for installing the teflon rings without tools but I haven't watched any of them yet if you have to go that route.

CaseyS
01-14-2016, 11:06 AM
For rebuild kit something like this

https://www.gmtransmissionparts.com/4l60e-4l65e-4l70e-2007-2013-master-transmission-rebuild-kit-w-bonded-vb-plate/
(https://www.gmtransmissionparts.com/4l60e-4l65e-4l70e-2007-2013-master-transmission-rebuild-kit-w-bonded-vb-plate/)
That kit has raybestos high energy clutches.

This kit has the borg warner clutches which I used in my build

http://www.bulkpart.com/2/product/74009ED-BS.html
(http://www.bulkpart.com/2/product/74009ED-BS.html)
Either way you will need to order the hummer specific filter to go with it, standard filter wont work.

And this seems like a good buyers guide for the kits

https://www.gmtransmissionparts.com/700r4-4l60e-4l65e-rebuild-kit-buyers-guide/
(https://www.gmtransmissionparts.com/700r4-4l60e-4l65e-rebuild-kit-buyers-guide/)
You should consider the minimum upgrades, the sun shell and corvette servo, around $70 for both of those.

Considering how far away you are, buying a master rebuild kit may be some good cheap insurance on having all the soft parts on hand in case you need anything, even if you don't do a full rebuild.

I feel your pain. In my swap, I thought the transmission would be the easiest part, just by the engine adapter and bolt it right back up. I learned the hard way that the I5 bellhousing and input are stepchilds and not standard checy pattern stuff. I probably spent half my swap time just on transmission. I would have just dropped stuff at a shop, but I was unsure of the combination of parts needed so I had to slog through it myself. I ended up buying a burnt trans from a 98 Z71 that had the input shaft and bellhousing I needed and did a full rebuild when I made one transmission from two. It is a little intimidating at first, but if you watch the videos and follow along, if you have decent mechanical skills its not to bad to go through the whole thing. I did have to McGuyver a few things to compress the retainer springs to get some of the pistons out.

Good luck and post anymore questions up!

Edit: reference post #3 in this thread. Did you think you would end up here?

humvee
01-14-2016, 11:06 AM
I'm beginning to wrap my head around an issue that worries me. The general perception here in the Gulf is that when you open up your transmission, it will only go downhill from there.
Looking at how intricate it all is, its easy to see why.

I'll read this and involve myself heavily every step of the way, Thanks again casey this is awesome material.

humvee
01-14-2016, 11:12 AM
I imagine buying a tranny off an alpha in the US, then shipping it here would be a shipping quote disaster. I'll try closer places like scrap yards in Dubai over the weekend. If I don't get a hit, I'm going the rebuild route.

Will update with pics and post questions as I go.

humvee
01-15-2016, 07:40 AM
You should consider the minimum upgrades, the sun shell and corvette servo, around $70 for both of those.

This is very reasonable, but I'm reading more through the material, everyone stresses on the importance of purchasing a new torque converter whenever you rebuild a tranny. I was just going to use the one that came with the engine, which has 90k miles on it.

Adding to list.

amrg
01-15-2016, 08:31 AM
Most major rebuild kits from brand names come with a torque converter (those have a stock stall rating of ~ 1600)

humvee
01-15-2016, 08:33 AM
Most major rebuild kits from brand names come with a torque converter (those have a stock stall rating of ~ 1600)

Im only upgrading known weak points of the 4l60


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CaseyS
01-15-2016, 10:46 AM
The main reason for the torque converter is if you are at the point that your transmission needs a rebuild, chances are you have clutch material, and possibly more in the fluid of which flows through the torque converter. It would be ashamed to spend all that time and effort on a rebuild to only when you fire it up the first time, fill it with trashy fluid from a used torque converter.

If your torque converter came from a known good transmission, you are probably ok. Inside the torque converter is the lockup clutch which over time can wear the same as the clutches in the trans. A large part of a transmission overhaul is physically getting it out of the vehicle, especially a 4x4 where you have to pull a transfer case and both driveshafts. The logic follows, that if you have it down and apart, might as well service it head to tail while its out, as a shortcut could lead to an equally labor intensive job of pulling it again.

rsc
01-15-2016, 06:21 PM
Don't let it get you bogged down in self-doubt because of the many small parts. If you had the 3? GM installation tools for all the seals and such then you could pretty easily build it up by watching the videos. Sure there are a lot of strange parts, but once you break it all down into more manageable, related chunks it is a lot easier to understand. Remember the old question- "how do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time." However, if you can find a good, low mileage 4L60E from another V8 it would be a lot simpler.

humvee
01-17-2016, 04:48 PM
Thank you for your explanations and kind words. I've been locked up at work for the past few days setting up next week's filming schedule and haven't had time for a proper update.
Reached out to gmtransmissionparts and waiting for Monday to come with a reply.. Going for an assembly like Casey recommended (if available).

For now the 3 is in my driveway pending these parts and some accessories. This will take a little while longer.

Looking back, the only thing I would've done differently is wait until I find an alpha engine with its tranny.
Everything else seems very straight forward.

I'm determined to finish this build before offroad season is interrupted by the 130 degree summer. And got my fingers crossed for a mid-travel ifs solution for next year's build.

More soon :)


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CaseyS
02-17-2016, 12:06 PM
Any updates on this? Since I last posted in this thread I had to pull my transmission down and do a partial rebuild due to a cracked input shaft.

humvee
02-17-2016, 12:09 PM
Hi C. Well I have all the parts except the exhaust manifold.
So the tranny comes off early March. Any tips?


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4speedfunk
02-17-2016, 02:15 PM
Diesel Hijack....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0MB-iqfCMSA

CaseyS
02-17-2016, 11:17 PM
What did you end up doing on an input drum?

FWIW, I cracked my input drum, so I went back to my local trans shop. Reman input drum, reman reverse drum, full rebuild kit, band, plus an extra 3-4 clutch and 6 0.076 steels for $376 out the door tax and everything. Did a 2 1/2 day turnaround. Crappy work and I was tired as heck afterwards.

Just thinking, did you get the torx 50+ bit to get the bellhousing free from the case? Its a special torx, regular torx 50 won't work and will strip the bolt head.

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-TORX-PLUS-Socket-Square/dp/B000O846UI
(http://www.amazon.com/OTC-TORX-PLUS-Socket-Square/dp/B000O846UI)
Edit: Can you snap a pic of your existing input shaft? I think all 3.5/3.7 run the 245mm converter which is what yours should look like. The 300mm is what you will need if you want to confirm your new input drum. The other two on the left are early styles. All LT and 4.3 based engines ran the 30 spline shaft which is what my setup requires.

http://i1330.photobucket.com/albums/w566/4BTHummer/transmission/700Pads-shafts_zps38b11e88.png (http://s1330.photobucket.com/user/4BTHummer/media/transmission/700Pads-shafts_zps38b11e88.png.html)

humvee
03-10-2016, 02:50 AM
Can you snap a pic of your existing input shaft?

C! So sorry I didnt see this. I just got back from vacation and ready to get started again.
Surely will take a pic as soon as the drum is out, which should be in great condition. Let me know if you or someone else needs it.

Which brings me to the rest of my 3.7 accessories, some i'll give away at shipping cost, others I might sell. Just have to take the time to set this up.

Now for that update. I was struggling with getting new exhaust manifolds over here, only major sites sold the left one and it was quoted at $500 shipping, so I had to find other means.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160310/945ff0989323643f3d097b81045d94bc.jpg

Harness is ready, I'm getting the 300mm input drum from the dealer and the tool Casey shared a link to. Unfortunately, won't be upgrading the tranny even though I know I'll regret it later.
Maybe I'll do that or a 6 speed when something comes up.

I'm going to continue with a detailed update as soon as the rest of the parts come in.



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humvee
03-28-2016, 07:10 AM
The H3 is back in the garage!

Harness needs another 3 days to get here and I'm very excited. Jamie concluded the battery terminal and updated the PCM TCM firmware for the V8.

The tranny is being pulled apart as we speak and should be finished with the input drum by Thursday. The torx 50+ bit was essential, up until now, they were improvising by welding the screw drivers to the bolts and twisting them that way. So thank you Casey.

Went scouting for the last couple of parts yesterday and got them. I found a bell housing unit that fits, and an alternator mount bracket. I couldn't find bracket pn: 12567922, which is the one for the H3, Colorado and GMC Sierra... Instead I got it off a 5.3 Yukon. It bolts right on but touches the vacuum pipe with the orange tip. Mechanic said we can just bend that out of the way and call it a day.

Who thinks this is a bad idea?

Will take pictures later today of all the accessories mounted on the engine, I'll then update the parts list needed to make this swap.
Here's a close up of the new engine mount.
http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=20768&stc=1

humvee
03-30-2016, 02:08 AM
So harness 3 day shipping was quoted at $650... Ridiculous.. I opted for an 8 day delivery for around $150.
And no proper work has been done on my tranny yet. I was hoping to have the 3 up and running by now.

This is beyond the control of my mechanic, and Jamie, who was shocked at these shipping quotes. So I thought I'd take to the forum and vent my frustration at something else.. gmpartsdirect.com:

After ordering the v8 exhaust manifolds, using their PayPal portal to facilitate the payment.. I was charged the full $180 for the parts + shipping.
I didn't hear a word from them for 10 days, then they sent me a new payment request for the same amount again. I shared the transaction ID, and a screenshot of my bank statement in a few Emails back and forth.. They refused to acknowledge that the manifolds have been paid for and have now stopped responding to my Emails completely.
I bought a new set elsewhere, and starting to feel like I should forget all about the $180. Its one thing to have to put up with ridiculous logistics fees, but a whole other thing to be far far away and helpless!

Anyway.. Will update ya'll soon when my parts get here.


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humvee
03-30-2016, 05:49 AM
You should consider the minimum upgrades, the sun shell and corvette servo, around $70 for both of those.


Hi Casey, I have some tranny questions.
Seeing that the work might take time. I'm going to take your advice and do the minimum you mentioned above. Sun shell and servo.
The guide you sent led me to these two parts:
https://www.gmtransmissionparts.com/upgraded-corvette-2-4-servo-700r4-4l60-4l60e-1982-up/
https://www.gmtransmissionparts.com/sun-gear-reaction-shell-extra-heavy-duty-washer-style-700r4-4l60e-1982-up/

Does this seem right to you?

Also, I've been looking at the diagram, when replacing the input drum, will they have to go through the shell and servo anyway? Or is this on another part of the tranny and requires more dismantling to get to?

I'm only asking because I want to keep dismantling tranny components to a minimum, and reduce the risk of something going wrong when putting it back together.

4speedfunk
03-30-2016, 08:12 AM
They refused to acknowledge that the manifolds have been paid for and have now stopped responding to my Emails completely

Not surprising given the number of offshore scams these days. Your location may have a lot to do with the response (or lack of). PayPal should cover you.

CaseyS
03-30-2016, 09:30 PM
The servo can be changed from the outside with the trans in the vehicle, so not really any additional work. You will want to purchase the $14.95 one with all the sealing and o rings since a) the pistons are different sizes than what its replacing and b) its difficult to get the servo out without cutting the last outer o ring.

With regards to the sun shell, its the next component down after you pull the input drum. The front planetary should pull right out and then the sun gear, then the sun shell. Can't remember now if there is a snap ring involved or not.

Hope this helps.

humvee
03-31-2016, 05:43 AM
Hope this helps.

It sure does Casey.. They never got back to me regarding the loaded input drum for my Hummer. Gonna call them again today and see if they can make one and ship it with the rest of the upgrades.

With the harness coming in after the weekend, I'll get busy on the motor and do the tranny right after.
Mechanic keeps nagging me to replace solenoid parts. I do not know what he means, and plan to continue ignoring this completely.

humvee
03-31-2016, 12:52 PM
Ordered a loaded input drum, upgraded servo (full assembly $50) and hardened sun shell.

This will all arrive in 7 days time. Hopefully the harness comes in on Sunday and I'll have an update.

CaseyS
04-01-2016, 11:14 AM
Check back to post #24. Just checking that you have also ordered the ISS (input speed sensor) and the internal wiring harness that has the connector for the ISS. Your factory internal harness will not have a wire for the ISS. Sounds like Jamie has verified the harness (vehicle harness) has a wire for the sensor. That harness will be plugged externally into the transmission connector. Also you need to verify that your pump cover has the bore in it to support the ISS.

Post #2 below.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-transmission/1208914-4l60e-converter-advice-please-adding-iss.html

(http://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-transmission/1208914-4l60e-converter-advice-please-adding-iss.html)Link for harness. Last one on the page.

https://www.gmtransmissionparts.com/700r4-4l60e-4l65e/electronics/

I don't see a link for the ISS (24244544) on their page but they should have it. Standard part.

As far as the solenoids, don't worry about it. They either work or they don't. Plus if one fails, they can be changed with the trans in the truck, just drop the pan to change them.

Sorry for the late followup. As you get further in, it toggles my memory to help your research. If I were doing this I have a local shop that likely has all of this in stock. Your logistics have got to be a nightmare.

humvee
04-01-2016, 11:51 AM
Check back to post #24. Just checking that you have also ordered the ISS (input speed sensor) and the internal wiring harness that has the connector for the ISS.

Casey, i called up Gmtransmissionparts and told them to add it to the box.
But also just spoke with Jamie, who's now telling me I wont need this at all.

What model year was your swap? I'm going 09 to 09 and jamie said it should all be there.

What do you think?

humvee
04-01-2016, 01:26 PM
Check back to post #24.

i reread the post, makes a lot more sense now.

Jamie had told me this was the case up until 2008, where i5 Colorados got the ISS setup just like the V8.

Are you certain 09 i5 trannys don't come with the internal wiring harness hooked up to an existing ISS?





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CaseyS
04-01-2016, 02:01 PM
i reread the post, makes a lot more sense now.

Jamie had told me this was the case up until 2008, where i5 Colorados got the ISS setup just like the V8.

Are you certain 09 i5 trannys don't come with the internal wiring harness hooked up to an existing ISS?





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Good catch. You should be correct. 08 and up should already have the ISS sensor and correct internal harness. You should only need the correct input drum like you originally ordered. My fault for not catching that.

If you are in the position to, you can verify that you do have the ISS by simply pulling the pan and looking.

My conversion was 06 and did not have the ISS.

humvee
04-01-2016, 02:10 PM
Great! I have actually confirmed this with a few colorado owners, never on a South African made H3 i5, so that I should do first thing tomorrow morning.

I'm glad you brought this up, it made me pull the trigger on some more replacement rings, straps and stuff.


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humvee
04-04-2016, 01:21 PM
The harness arrived today, Jamie went about labeling the wires down to 'fuel injector 1, 2 etc. we were on the phone when I was removing the PCM/TCM and I cracked the bracket housing.. He surprised me with a new GM bracket to replace the old one completely.

I took the input drum back to the dealer but they refused a refund, I could've argued but opted for 2 step bars to go with my rock sliders. My better half has been complaining about getting in and out of the truck for a while.

Unfortunately, Sam has started a few Wrangler builds while waiting for my harness, so I'll have to wait till next week to get started on mine... Fair considering I took up space in his shop for a while now.

I'll update when the build resumes.


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humvee
04-08-2016, 07:10 PM
The build is on its way again. It was about 10 minutes in when I found that I didn't have an oil pan pipe, it was taken out before I got the motor, and replaced with an incompatible LS3 pipe instead.

Wasn't willing to wait another 2 weeks to ship a new one over, so we improvised.

http://i.imgur.com/WpeT8HA.jpg (http://imgur.com/WpeT8HA)
http://i.imgur.com/wm3PA6m.jpg (http://imgur.com/wm3PA6m)
http://i.imgur.com/BlO5Ymk.jpg

Cut, matched and welded the bends and straights with a pipe from a Wrangler JK that was lying around.

http://i.imgur.com/fRalvvy.jpg

We also dropped the tranny, and the guys started taking it apart. New tranny parts come in on Sunday, so we're getting ready for a quick install when that happens.

The electrician couldn't start working on the harness just yet, so started installing a new Sony stereo I got from Crutchfield.com. Trying to make that work with the Monsoon system shouldn't be an issue.

Also forgot that during Chris' build, he found that the motor mounts were labeled the wrong way around. So the motor didn't mount in place, we called it a day finally and decided to resume tomorrow.

humvee
04-10-2016, 06:59 AM
Day 3 of the swap.

So the tranny parts are finally here and being taking it apart. I'm still missing the oil seals at the front where the drum spleen meets the TC, and the back at the transfer case, someone is on his way to get those. Input drum, upgraded sunshield and servo should be done today.
http://i.imgur.com/y4DbuaZ.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ehzAaKG.jpg

The motor motor mounts were not a direct fit, we had to trim a bit off the bracket to get it to fit flush. I'm not very happy with the design and don't know how these small mounts will cope with desert offroading, but its too early to judge.
http://i.imgur.com/K8UJJj9.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/8Yr4nFQ.jpg


Motor is finally in, and the harness Jamie made is looking good so far.
I took out the TB and gave it a thorough cleaning inside and out.
http://i.imgur.com/gmMvZMZ.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Ft3ILr8.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/HbxJ7oa.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/8bS5Rae.jpg

3 issues still loom:

a) I'm reusing the clutch fan from the i5, which has less blades than its V8 counterpart, and pushes out less air. Hoping the 16" electric fan I add on the outside compensates for this.

b) The power steering pump doesn't bolt onto the alternator bracket I bought. Will try and get a different one later today.

c) I can't find the power steering pulley anywhere. Hope I can find the bracket with an undamaged pulley still attached, make it work until I can order a new one from the US.

Most of the above is straight forward if the parts were accessible, everything else is pretty much plug and play so far and I'm not worried.

humvee
04-10-2016, 12:46 PM
Couldn't find the alternator bracket today, will look again tomorrow.
The mechanic wasn't able to start on the tranny, so it has to be tomorrow too.

But.. the day wasn't totally wasted. we got started on the exhaust downpipes. The manifolds I got are from a Corvette LS3, the passenger side manifold points directly down at the chassis. We routed it away directly after the flange.
http://i.imgur.com/ckAPExF.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/tbM9pEw.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/djGhBNC.jpg


The cats I chose are the Zeuna-Starker KT0165, these are used on the Mercedes CLK 320, got them at a good price new.
I won't be adding a second cat, just one on each side with the O2 an sensor on either side.
http://i.imgur.com/fa66pjf.jpg

humvee
04-10-2016, 03:46 PM
Question, and I really hope someone chimes in here... It seems I won't get the alternator bracket I need here in Doha, which is the one that fits on the colorado, Chevy 2500/3500 trucks.

Thinking to install a 1500 truck bracket/pump combo. It will mount fine, but the pump on these attaches much lower than ours.
Dealers have a no refund policy on pumps here. Does anyone know why this pump was ditched by Hummer? I'd like to know if anyone has done this before I go out and get one tomorrow.

http://i.imgur.com/L5evjxb.png

Thanks

Happy Hummer
04-10-2016, 04:27 PM
Fascinating build thread. Wow!

CaseyS
04-11-2016, 04:05 AM
Are you sure that won't interfere with the steering box mounted that low? Hard to tell by the picture.

That looks like the exact same pump on my Cummins. If the pulley is pressed on make sure to use the threads in the end of the shaft to pull the pulley on the shaft. Do NOT squeeze the back side of the case, you will crush the internals and the pump won't work.

humvee
04-11-2016, 05:39 AM
Not very sure, I'll borrow a used unit from a scrap shop, test it before I move forward.
Its the same one on the escalades and tahoes.. Can't find specs of these pumps online.

So we'll experiment and see


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humvee
04-11-2016, 05:17 PM
Are you sure that won't interfere with the steering box mounted that low?

You were right. I couldn't get my hands on one, but I took a few measurements and it surely won't clear the steering components.

Contacted GMPARTSDIRECT.com again, the $180 issue is still pending, sorted it out with PayPal and they won't be charging me when I release the funds again.
Hoping they'll answer this Email after ignoring the last 3.


Fingers crossed.

humvee
04-11-2016, 05:44 PM
My friend is swamped with orders and needed his best mechanic to work on other trucks, so I sent out my tranny to another shop to be worked on.
I'll get it back on Thursday.
http://i.imgur.com/bVjIZco.jpg

In the meantime, I did something I've been longing to do, deleted the egr intake. Its been breaking loose and rattling for a while now.
http://i.imgur.com/3SZZvff.jpg

And finally, deleting the side scoops. I always wanted this look.
http://i.imgur.com/3Wz8V7i.jpg

humvee
04-13-2016, 06:13 PM
Update..
The rebuilt tranny comes in tomorrow, excited to get the work done. Once that is in, the welder will sort out the rest of the exhaust work as the electrician hooks up the rest of the harness.

I've reached a brick wall with the alternator bracket. No response to my Emails, GMpartsdirect have caused me a great deal of headache.

Worked on the bumper and LED bar bracket some more to pass time.

humvee
04-16-2016, 06:32 PM
Tranny shop came in with this... saying the oil pump needs to be changed as well as the shaft is longer.
The new pump I need should match with the new housing.

http://i.imgur.com/2QMX2WO.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/dZfC3eu.jpg

Should be the same pump, so perhaps they're missing something.
Will try to get more pictures side by side.

any ideas?

CaseyS
04-16-2016, 10:09 PM
Nope. You should be good. All the pumps and stator supports are the same. Remember you have a different torque converter and the combination of the input shaft and correct torque converter and bell housing depth put the torque converter pads at the correct depth for the particular flexplate depth of the engine.

Eg. The LT series engines 5.7, etc flexplate offset from the back of the block is a different take up than the LS engines.

There were two different pump to case seal designs but you are reusing your pump so no worries there.

Take a look at your torque converters. The original and the new one likely have a different hub length. This will account for your take up.

Make sure you get the order of the shim washer and thrust bearing between the drum and the pump correct. Reuse your existing washer, it will likely have like a 69 or 70 stamped on it. Test fit the torque converter on the bench like you are setup in that pic and test fit it again before you bolt the bell housing back on to make sure the pump turns free.

humvee
04-17-2016, 01:56 AM
Thanks C, I'll get the new TC and match it up at the shop like you said.
Is there a possibility that the outer shell of the reman drum is a different shape, or are there parts between the pump and Drum that render this irrelevant?


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humvee
04-17-2016, 04:45 AM
Nope. You should be good. All the pumps and stator supports are the same.

Tranny guy is saying the difference is 19mm. Does this sound accurate?

Will go over there later and take close up pictures, this is the level of tranny workmanship here that I was talking about coming into the project.

CaseyS
04-17-2016, 08:44 AM
Holy crap these transmissions piss me off! I think I will have to stand corrected.

http://www.bulkpart.com/2/category/4L60E-4L65Epump.html

Measure the inside length of the stator support. This piece is pressed into the inner pump cover. It looks like one has a length of 6 7/8" and another 7 5/16" This is an 11.1 cm difference. I'm going to go check the length on my old '06 one.

In the link I posted, the A74529D shows for current years and matches to 245 and 298 mm converters (the hummer runs the little 245 mm converter)

The A74529E lists for 300mm converters (LS engines) and is longer.

I may have never have caught this in my swap because I went from the 245 hummer converter to a 298 LT1 style converter and they use the same stator support. The good news is if you need the longer length, you can just get the stator support. The old one will need to be pressed out and the new one pressed in.

Keep me posted.

Edit: Just for clarity and to answer your earlier question, the drum length itself should all be the same as it and the reverse drum all have to stack inside the case and the pump bolts on last to secure everything inside. The difference in length is in the shaft length and stator support length which sticks out outside of the case.

humvee
04-17-2016, 04:52 PM
The A74529E lists for 300mm converters (LS engines) and is longer.

Thanks for breaking it down.
I passed by this morning before seeing this post, took some pictures as it was coming together.
He agreed with your previous post once I read it out to him. Checked the fitment of both setups before making any conclusions.

http://i.imgur.com/CBnFaqm.jpg
Pump on the old drum (i5)

http://i.imgur.com/caIRbyw.jpg
Pump on the new drum. Difference I measured was 15mm.

http://i.imgur.com/VpkjWIm.jpg
EDIT: Side by side in the converter, the new converter does push the drum up.

http://i.imgur.com/YkInyXJ.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/CzQJeeN.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/uXp4Rjl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/GStREGq.jpg

Phone died here.

Tranny was closed up, fit in the bell housing well. They'll send it back to Sam's garage tomorrow to install it. But I think you're right and it won't line up. I'll go back to snap a few pictures and measure how far the input shaft protrudes from the housing.

CaseyS
04-17-2016, 07:54 PM
It will line up and bolt up, BUT here's the rub.

I went back and looked at some of my build info. The I5 flexplate is 1.47" aft of the bellhousing mating surface on the rear of the block. On LT based setups, the flexplate is closer at 1.02". On LS setups I think it is another 0.4" closer in still. The issue right now is not the length of your input shaft, you have the right shaft and it is longer because it needs to be for the LS engine with the right torque converter, because the LS flexplate is closer to the block than the I5 flexplate.

That was a good catch by your mechanic but possibly not for the right reason. If you put you torque converter on and bolt it up, it will likely look ok. However with the stator shaft too short it may only partially engage the stator or even worse not engage it at all. Best case is the vehicle won't move, worst case, you end up with shredded wheat aluminum in your trans case.

You can install the torque converter in the assembled trans and take a measurement from the bellhousing face to the torque converter pads. You will need a straightedge across the bellhousing face to do this. Then take a measurement from the flexplate face to the rear of the block. The difference should be about 3/16". When you install the trans you will see that gap between the torque converter pads and the flexplate. Snugging up the torque converter bolts will pull the converter slightly forward and the pump "ears" will still be engaged in the two slots of the hub.

If you do this I think you will find your takeups correct, but the converter may be wobbly because the stator is not engaged. Don't get too far ahead because I think the bell housing and pump will need to come back off and the stator support pressed out and replaced with the longer one.

Hopes this makes sense. Don't feel bad either. I spent a LOT of trans research trying to get all the parts figured out for my adapter setup. This was part of the swap I really thought I could just buy a chevy pattern adapter and bolt it right up, but that was far from the case.

CaseyS
04-17-2016, 09:26 PM
Also I just verified from my parts bin that my 06 also used the shorter 6 7/8" stator support, so that cross checks that length was used with the 245mm converter.

humvee
04-18-2016, 06:46 AM
So I told the guys not to install the tranny, and shared your post with gmtransmissionparts. They came back with this.

"That makes a lot of sense, sounds like this dude knows his stuff. So it sounds like you need a pump stator tube and possibly a bellhousing? "

Flying out tonight for 10 days, but i'll be ordering parts and liaising with Sam's guys throughout.

Just need to know what to get exactly.

I'll tell the tranny guys to take the measurements you were asking for. In the meantime, waiting for David (gmtranny) to get back to me with more info.


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CaseyS
04-18-2016, 07:24 AM
If this were that easy, everyone would have done it by now.

So I saw the servo out in the pics so I assume that work is done. Did you get the sun shell changed as well? Now you can see what I mean its the next part in the case after you pull the input drum.

So in summary, minimum parts required to convert an 09 (so far)

Bellhousing
Input drum with reluctor
Torque converter
Stator support

Keep at it. Anyone that thinks a swap is a week project like you see on TV and that you can forsee all the little traps and have every single part pre-ordered needs to have their head examined.

humvee
04-18-2016, 07:28 AM
Haha.. True.

The wait is long, but I'm not in a hurry anymore. Don't want to build a kit car, stuck in the garage every other week.
Gotta do this right, I'm just grateful I have your input throughout.

Thanks C


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cbetts
04-18-2016, 08:40 AM
http://i.imgur.com/GStREGq.jpg


That pic brings back memories fighting the alignment of clutch packs. I have spent some late nights doing the "jiggle" to get the last clutch to engage on a TH350. After two hours and some sore arms, I finally got the last one in, I picked up the front pump from the bench only to find that goofy c-clip looking thing that goes in with the first pack by the tail. Had to pull everything back out just for that!

Good times!

humvee
04-18-2016, 06:33 PM
I have spent some late nights doing the "jiggle"

And there's our quote of the day!

humvee
04-18-2016, 06:38 PM
.BSo in summary, minimum parts required to convert an 09 (so far)

Bellhousing
Input drum with reluctor
Torque converter
Stator support


So david from gmtrannyparts just came back with thes:

"Ok I think my research has lead me to conclude that the input drum you received from us along with the torque converter from the 5.3L engine (or a new one meant for a 5.3L) and a pump/pump stator tube meant for a 5.3L (and 5.3L bell housing) would work in your hummer. If you are comfortable pressing out the stator tube and putting the correct one in I can send you one."

@Casey, thoughts?

CaseyS
04-18-2016, 09:28 PM
I think I agree. Make sure you get one that is made for ISS models. Also make sure it comes loaded with front and rear shaft bushings. I'm pretty sure you will be able to press the shaft out without having to disassemble the pump.

Hopefully parts can get there by the time you get back from your trip.

Have you checked the takeups yet on the converter?

Also to verify your bell housing should be right at 7" deep and have a triangle shaped top with a bolt hole at the top of the triangle. I think I verified that at the beginning of your thread.

humvee
04-22-2016, 05:41 PM
After much research, David agrees that the stator shaft I need is A74529E (post 17) to fit the 300mm converter.

Can't get the tranny guy to measure anything from here. Going to but this stator. They installed the teflon rings on either side of it too.

More news soon.
Thank you C


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humvee
04-22-2016, 05:44 PM
I think I agree. Make sure you get one that is made for ISS models.

After much research, David agrees that the stator shaft I need is A74529E (post 17) to fit the 300mm converter. Like you said.

Can't get the tranny guy to measure anything from here. Going to but this stator. They installed the teflon rings on either side of it too.

Tranny guy confirmed the bell housing is the one, has the extra bold and its off a 5.3 too.

CaseyS
04-22-2016, 07:01 PM
To clarify, the Teflon orings go on the input shaft, you have those already. The stator support shaft that you are ordering has a brass bushing pressed into either end of it that becomes the bearing surface for the input shaft spinning inside.

humvee
04-23-2016, 02:51 AM
The stator support shaft that you are ordering has a brass bushing pressed into either end of it that becomes the bearing surface for the input shaft spinning inside.


The input drum they sent already has the 4 teflons installed that will ride inside the stator tube. The stator tube will have 2 teflons and 2 bushings already installed in it and then the pump to torque converter seal will also be coming with it.

humvee
05-14-2016, 09:58 AM
So, 2 weeks or so ago.. My tranny guy fell off a boat doing service on deck, broke 4 ribs and his collar bone. He's back to work today.

We pressed out the stator and installed the new one. Will send this out to Sam tomorrow.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160514/d283bc18614302a43c6faaf9dd3b2139.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160514/07b3beabf100f2c466ca077ae742f97d.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160514/294c7981da3e1a8de0a9b0cc466df401.jpg

Here's the difference before we pressed the i5 stator out of the pump. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160514/f30fb0557bddf89761d3d0bd89a5e83d.jpg



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humvee
05-14-2016, 10:46 AM
Which transmission filter should we use here. We lost the one we removed and they say there are two types, it depends on the crank case.

1/2 metal or full plastic..


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CaseyS
05-14-2016, 02:31 PM
The filter is hummer application specific and the only ones I have ever seen were all plastic cases.

humvee
05-15-2016, 04:19 PM
And you are correct.

I'm just wondering what i'll do when some of these Hummer specific parts become extinct.. I keep saying I'll hold on to my 3 forever, but at some point it'll become impossible.

Anyhow got a week of back to back filming scheduled.. Sam will try and finish it off now that its all there.


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humvee
05-18-2016, 09:53 AM
some snaps of the tranny before it goes in. Anyone see anything out of the ordinary?

These cracks in the used bell housing I got are worrying me.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160518/eca6cc303d76a1eed3c0be789b8df11a.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160518/b2fbb047e08fec5c1398f3d5c20cb1e9.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160518/039816076cf8fca18743f65f87433046.jpg


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5gn-h3t
05-18-2016, 04:46 PM
Unless I'm missing something, I think you are just looking at marks from the casting process.

JPaul
05-18-2016, 09:26 PM
That's what I am seeing as well. They are likely just cracks due to shrinkage when the aluminum was cooling after being cast. It shouldn't be anything to worry about.

humvee
05-19-2016, 08:08 AM
Super! Mechanic is understaffed, so work is very very slow on the truck at the moment.
They installed the Alternator bracket and pulley I struggled with for so long. Here's whats left.

-Install tranny
-Fabricate exhaust downpipes, include cat converters and O2 sensors
-complete Harness installation
-Battery
-Airbox
-Rest of engine bay connections and components
-Fabricate new AC lines
-Extend Fuel lines
-Reflash ECU

... Fire it up

CaseyS
05-19-2016, 12:25 PM
Cat converters? Didn't those get tossed out with the old engine?

I agree on the casting marks on the bell housing. Nothing to worry about.

The way you state that list you make it sound so short. Seems like all you have left now is finishing!

Don't forget to put a quart of fluid in the torque converter before installing it.

humvee
05-19-2016, 12:33 PM
The way you state that list you make it sound so short. Seems like all you have left now is finishing!

Don't forget to put a quart of fluid in the torque converter before installing it.

Yeah, I don't want to speak too soon again, but apart from the AC lines and down pipe fabrication its all plug and play from here.
My i5 had one cat down the pipe, I still have it. The other was in the manifold.
Got 2 brand new cats made for a merc CLK, good deal.

I'll be sure to remind them of the fluid, it had totally slipped my mind.

humvee
05-19-2016, 12:39 PM
Honestly I'm eager to hear what it'll sound like on the i5 resonator and muffler + 2 cats made for a German car. Hope its not too loud.
I removed the borla catback last year after the traffic department sent me an impound notice.


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humvee
05-24-2016, 05:47 PM
So! Yesterday, nothing could wife the smile off my face.
http://i.imgur.com/XIpYvjf.jpg

Engine bay populated, and tranny bolted right up.
Had to buy a new starter, and ended up getting new AC lines. Heater hose was out of stock so I'll either get that online, or completely forget about it. Never used it its like 5000 degrees out here, and winters are mild.

Now for the tuning, Jamie had reflashed my PCM/TCM to take a V8 tune.
I have TWO V8 tunes at my disposal.
1) Stock V8 tune provided by Jamie, said it should load right up.
2) Fine tuned file for the V8 currently in my truck.

Both tunes are for the alpha, so I need to do the following:

a) reflect 4.10 to 4.56 ratio change.
b) remove O2 codes caused by the rear O2 sensor delete
c) Reconfigure fan settings. I have 2 fans and one relay for them. I can wire them to work as one but would still need to remove codes and set temperature parameters.
d) after factory flash I'll need to learn the crank angle , otherwise a po315 code will come up.

A and B are straight forward, I'll be researching the whole compare/copy option. BUT I do not know what C and D are all about.

Fun fact: Buying an Alpha, rebuilding the tranny and rehearing to 4.56 would have been cheaper by $3,000. Not complaining, just saying.

CaseyS
05-25-2016, 09:37 AM
Congrats. You are in an elite club.

Looking forward to a first drive report. So does this mean you have cranked it? Not to discourage but obviously there will be some debugging involved to get it going.

humvee
05-25-2016, 09:51 AM
Thank youu.
How do I make it learn the crank angle?
Is this what we're talking about?


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humvee
05-25-2016, 12:02 PM
So we just fired it up for a few seconds. No exhaust yet. I'm excited!!

https://youtu.be/ywD8ENtLXxs


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humvee
05-27-2016, 02:22 AM
Parts update. So far these are the parts I needed to do the swap. Amrg left some of the accessories mounted on the engine when he sold it to me. But, if you're only getting the engine block and intake manifold, expect to buy a whole lot while putting it together.

ENGINE PARTS, ACCESORIES & ELECTRICAL
Power steering pump - ACDELCO 25932020
Starter Assembly - 19180529 and 11610787
Indicator (oil level) - 12610053
Tube Oil level - 12563918
Waterpump
Alternator
Alternator bracket 12567922 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/261993297846?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
Tensioner pulley - 12609719
Idler Pulley - 12580771
Power steering pulley - 12605507 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/252047599899?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
Clutch fan
Belt AC compressor - 19210691
Belt - Fan and water pump - 12626222
Engine mounts - http://www.currentperformance.com/shop/04-08-colorado-canyon-v8-engine-mounts/
AC Compressor - ACDELCO 1522146
AC Compressor mounting bracket - 12554026
AC hoses - 15865705 and 25813637
Heater hose
Air intake assembly (top housing + intake pipe) - 25813589
Engine Oil Pan + gasket- 12624621
Oil pan drain pipe
Radiator hoses
Knock sensor - 12623730
Fuel pump

TRANSMISSION - Only if you wish to adapt 2008^ i5 4L60E to work on the Alpha LH8.
4L60E Alpha style input drum / with reluctor - http://www.bulkpart.com/2/product/D74554GA.html
4L60E Alpha specific stator shaft - A74529E
Transmission oil filter + gasket
Torque Converter
Torque converter seal- 24202535
Crankshaft seal
Transmission to Transfer Case seal
Bell Housing - ACDELCO 24236707

EXHAUST
Exhaust manifold - 12598548 (http://www.discountoeparts.com/hummer/h3/12598548/2009-year/alpha-trim/5-3l-v8-gas-engine/exhaust-system-cat/exhaust-manifold-scat/?part_name=manifold&position=left) and 12600527
(http://www.discountoeparts.com/hummer/h3/12600527/2009-year/alpha-trim/5-3l-v8-gas-engine/exhaust-system-cat/exhaust-manifold-scat/?part_name=manifold&position=right)Alpha exhaust downpipes + cats (I went custom) - 20784217 (http://www.discountoeparts.com/hummer/h3/20784217/2009-year/alpha-trim/5-3l-v8-gas-engine/exhaust-system-cat/exhaust-components-scat/?part_name=catalytic-converter) and 25844505
O2 sensors (Only inside pre-cat, deleted post-cat set)

OTHER
Custom extended or Alpha fuel lines
Wiring harness

More will be added on as I find receipts and remember.

humvee
05-27-2016, 11:17 AM
So now that everything is almost in place. Here's what we've been doing over the past couple of days.

We were troubleshooting a tranny leak for a day, turns out we had a defective seal between the tranny and T-case. Once that was sorted, we started working on the custom exhaust. If you guys recall, I wasn't able to get my hands on the OEM manifolds, which should point back and downwards to avoid contact with the frame on the passenger side. Instead, we had to work with the straight down orientation, leaving us little to no clearance. So far so good. We cleared the frame with a bend straight out of the manifold without problems. Here's the design.
http://i.imgur.com/tbM9pEw.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/P5cryvF.jpg


We took a look underneath an alpha, and mimicked the exhaust path there, cancelled most of the stretches were Hummer had flattened the exhaust, the outcome remains to be seen but Sam assures me it has enough wiggle room. They removed it for insulation so I don't have a pic of that yet.

Further down, we had to cut the exhaust and push it back to make room for the Y-pipe, where left meets right. Simple chop and weld? No.. they had to reposition the entire catback sightly in order for it to line up.
http://i.imgur.com/wRVTnpV.jpg

Back on the engine side, we completed the trans-cooler setup, isolated the stock cooler within the radiator and rerouted it to this baby. Margo was kind enough to give me one of his stock Spal fans, Jamie had made a relay on the harness for this.
http://i.imgur.com/CDRWSsL.jpg


We also got around to installing the passenger side crossmember bushing, will do the other side on Saturday.

And this brings us to Saturday! Tomorrow, somewhere between the Champions League Soccer final, and a film deadline, I'll be taking my H3 home.

Wish me luck friends, will update soon.

Ghostbuster
05-27-2016, 02:33 PM
Good job!

humvee
05-30-2016, 12:34 AM
During our last check underneath the truck, we realised that the fuel lines run too close to the exhaust. While clearing them, the lines came loose from the engine side. I asked the guy if he had extended the fuel lines like I asked, he did not.

Now that everything is in place, I don't know how difficult this will be. The fuel leak source can barely be seen from underneath.

While they do that, I need help with the following..
Theres a plug for the fuel pressure sensor. Jamie put it in the exact same place as it was on the old harness, but the electrician cannot find it. I'll go underneath an alpha today to see if there are any differences, but I found this image online.
http://i.imgur.com/cNTyOtj.jpg

Here's the plug on the harness, anyone can give any insight on this?
http://i.imgur.com/HVB0mZk.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/6rMdzHx.jpg

humvee
05-30-2016, 04:56 PM
Today I took the truck out for a test drive after they extended my fuel lines. The exhaust was touching the frame at 2 spots. Went back in for minor adjustments, will need a few more.
The nice thing about this custom exhaust job is that we eliminated all the original flat exhaust sections. Im pretty sure ill need to hammer in a few bends in, but its still better than the setup it was before.

Now, the truck seems very underpowered. It dwells in 1st before changing to second. And full throttle barely gets it moving. Will see if this is the tune or something else.

Some bugs need to be sorted, i think the manifold is leaking, getting a clicking noise that's consistent with the rpm.

This will need a bit more time


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humvee
05-30-2016, 07:23 PM
Quick update. Washed the Hummer and brought it home... Confirmed that the manifold is leaking, quite badly too. This should be the reason for the loss in power, cz the tune I had flashed was stock alpha.

Exhaust gets in contact with the transfer case when I hit mild bumps, and when I go over 40mph. Will go in tomorrow for tightening and adjustments.

Also, the AC isn't cooling that much. I read that AC Delco ship their compressors with a small amount of oil in them, but may not be enough to function as intended.
Now that everything is in place, I'll have to get back in there, and do what needs to be done with the compressor.

Took out the oil level dipstick for a check, and it wouldn't slide back in. Mechanic said he has the bolts tightened too hard. Covered it up with some tape and added it to the list of things to do.

All in all, I'm very happy to be behind the wheel again.

650Hawk
05-31-2016, 12:26 AM
This is/has been helluva install. Not what anyone would typically attempt. That said I wish you the best of luck getting the final pieces into place. Your V8 install would make most of us simply look for an Alpha. You've shown us that it's possible to make the conversion (to a V8), but it's probably not practical for most of us.

humvee
05-31-2016, 03:08 AM
You've shown us that it's possible to make conversion (to a V8), but it's probably not practible for most of us.

If we look at Chris's swap, he was able to get a V8 off a totalled Blazer with its tranny for a very good price. That can make the difference worth it.
The dealer here sells parts at 3-4 times the price. For example, AC lines cost me $520.
If I had the full list of parts before I started, I would've ordered it all at once. Lacked some research and there was a lot of trial and error along the way.

Another thing to look out for... I'm now running a V8 on the i5 aluminium differentials and 35" tires. Thats not ideal for ya'll if you're rock crawling. I won't worry about that on the dunes.

humvee
05-31-2016, 06:18 AM
Some more images of the exhaust work.
http://i.imgur.com/vAbb64f.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/FGtRbDM.jpg

06 H3
05-31-2016, 11:56 AM
glad to hear its up and running! Now its time for all the tinkering/perfecting the odds and ends.

CaddyStrophic
05-31-2016, 07:00 PM
I've been following you all the way. Just wanted to say congrats on the swap and I hope you get all the kinks worked out.

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humvee
06-01-2016, 01:11 AM
Thanks guys! Just a matter of time now I hope


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humvee
06-01-2016, 06:01 PM
Im facing what I believe is the final issue on this build. Its Fuel related.

The harness Jamie made came with a plug labelled 'fuel pressure', this is meant to go into the fuel line on near the cat on the driver side. However, when plugged in, I don't get a fuel pressure reading, and getting the P0192 code (Fuel rail pressure sensor circuit low input)

BUT.. I found that the correct plug is found on the body harness, which wasn't connected. I replaced the two and immediately got a pressure reading.
But now we have a loose plug on Jamie's harness, with no where to plug into.

So after close examination of a stock alpha, the electrician decided to strip both plugs and join them together. I didn't get a change to run a diagnostics before merging the wires, but after merging, I started getting the P0001 code. Which could and should be faulty wiring.

The 3 drives heavy. Tomorrow I'll ask them to separate the two cables so i can run a proper diagnostic. But I feel the problem could be from the fuel pump control module (20759945). Its the same part number for both i5 and V8, but they should be programmed differently.

humvee
06-02-2016, 01:27 PM
So the fuel pump control module wasnt the problem. Codes cleared out when I flashed the stock tune in there. I'll keep it stock and wait a few cycles to see if anything returns.

But... Found an engine oil leak. Must be the crank case seal. Will keep a close eye and top it up over the weekend.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160602/2108cdeb31297dd5d68d12b1137e7df9.jpg


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humvee
06-02-2016, 02:02 PM
Closer inspection showed that theres too much oil. The new dip stick isn't helping. Pressure built up so much that it forced its way out past seal.
We can't remember who it was that filled it up from the service team.

Doubt the seal will survive this


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CaseyS
06-02-2016, 09:40 PM
This is the troubleshooting phase I was speaking of. Hang in there. My trans came down three times over the first two months. Just keep a log of the issues, prioritize and tackle them one at a time. If it were easy, everyone would have a v8.

06 H3
06-02-2016, 10:57 PM
Agreed, that is not only to the V8 swap, it's to any major mod. Getting it done is half the work then troubleshooting is the rest...hang in there!

humvee
06-07-2016, 07:00 AM
Thank you guys for your kind words. All seals sorted, no more leaks. but I'm having other issues.

The oil light keeps going on and off, mostly if I'm parked at an incline.
When I turned off the truck and checked the engine oil dipstick, white smoke was coming out of it. I linked the video to this below.

While the engine is off, but still hot.

https://youtu.be/K0gCHlCDU2Y

EDIT: Oil levels are normal

4speedfunk
06-07-2016, 08:22 AM
I think I will just sell mine and buy an Alpha.

JPaul
06-07-2016, 11:32 AM
I think I will just sell mine and buy an Alpha.

I think humvee is having all these problems because he's in Qatar. It's a lot easier to get all the parts you need here in the states. Also he's relying on other people to do a lot of the work, which they may or may not be competent enough to do it right. This should be a straightforward swap, considering that year had an option for a V8. It's not like other swaps that you're truly having to do custom work to get everything to fit and work.

Heck, swapping in a 2.4 into my Neon to replace the 2.0 "should" have been straightforward, since the only real difference on them was the firing order (swap some pins around in the harness), the block height, and the front engine mount (it'd been done enough times that you could buy an adapter for the mount either used or new easily), trim the hood braces due to the increased height, and a handful of other parts that needed to be changed out to make it fit. The transmission bolted right up, as did the two other engine mounts, the head was the same so you'd use existing intake/exhaust. The Neon forum had a complete step by step for the whole process. Even then though I still had to do a number of customization's to make it actually work.

For a 2008+ H3 swapping in a 5.3 should simply be a matter of collecting all the parts the factory used and bolt it all together and turn it on. I do not think you should even need to reflash the engine controller as you can just get a V8 version and maybe reprogram the VIN or something minor like that. Get it all in and working and then mess with the tune if that is what you want to do.

But yes, I think that selling your H3 and buying an Alpha is a much easier and probably cheaper option. Only downside to that is you are getting a used engine, and I prefer the idea of rebuilding whatever engine you are swapping in so that you have a nice fresh engine instead of one with unknown life left on it. That being said, if my warranty will cover fixing my 3.7, I'm just going to go with that and then in a couple years sell my H3 and get an Alpha, and then probably pick up a 6.0 or 6.2 to rebuild and swap in.

But if it doesn't get fixed by the warranty, then I'll be re-reading all of humvee's thread to figure out how to swap in a V8. It's been a very helpful and detailed thread.

4speedfunk
06-07-2016, 12:09 PM
Also not sure I would ever sweat this much for a 5.3L. Its a great motor but, that just too much dickin around to make your own bone-stock Alpha. There several other larger-displacement V8s that are the same physical size. I saw the GM off-road racing H3 in person a few years ago...it had a 7.0L Corvette LS motor. Awesome! Same amount of effort...same cost (except for the motor itself)...triple the horsepower....
http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=21082&stc=1

And no doubt that stock IFS would explode the first time you nailed it. :giggle:

CaddyStrophic
06-07-2016, 01:05 PM
Also not sure I would ever sweat this much for a 5.3L. Its a great motor but, that just too much dickin around to make your own bone-stock Alpha. There several other larger-displacement V8s that are the same physical size. I saw the GM off-road racing H3 in person a few years ago...it had a 7.0L Corvette LS motor. Awesome! Same amount of effort...same cost (except for the motor itself)...triple the horsepower....
http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=21082&stc=1

And no doubt that stock IFS would explode the first time you nailed it. :giggle:
I'm guessing that's a one-of-a-kind hood? Because I kiiinda need that in my life.

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humvee
06-07-2016, 04:17 PM
Theres truth in this.. I didn't want a 6.2, too much power for a dd.
And its true that its a hassle, but sometimes overlooking a small detail can complicate the hell out of whats meant to be simple swap.

I think I found the source of my smoke problem. The mechanic broke off the vaccum pipe on top of the intake manifold a while back, and did a terrible job at gluing it back together.
Its not doing its job, Some research is leading me to believe that this is also behind the fuel codes.

Power steering hose keeps popping, second time now. Maybe the hot air from the manifold leak is behind this.

Took the truck back in to see if they'll get it all right this time.


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humvee
06-07-2016, 04:19 PM
http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=21082&stc=1

I'm in love with this truck. Already working on the exact same stinger design and similar hood (fiberglass). Will cut open the hood too for better circulation.


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06 H3
06-07-2016, 10:44 PM
Yea it's a good amount of work for a 5.3...luckily I didn't have to mess with transmission stuff because I just took the one from the 5.3 and my H3 one and swapped parts around no issues.

Nice thing is that a 6.0 and 6.2 will drop in with just a tune and some minor adjustments since factory 5.3 guys have put in the bigger motors before

GreatDaneHummer
06-07-2016, 11:25 PM
The real fun is changing over a 3.7 to a 6.2 ... I would like to see how that works out.

JPaul
06-08-2016, 12:48 AM
I don't see how it'd be any different than doing a 5.3 swap, other than the additional steps you'd need for the 6.0/6.2 with the tune and whatnot. At least what I gather is that there isn't much difference between them. If I end up having to replace my motor myself, I'm considering skipping the 5.3 and going with at least a 6.0.

humvee
06-08-2016, 03:01 AM
I don't see how it'd be any different than doing a 5.3 swap

True, the intake manifold is different so a revised air pipe design is needed too.


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humvee
06-08-2016, 12:07 PM
I had completely forgotten that the alpha comes with a power steering cooler. Paying the price and waiting for a tow truck.

Anyone ever tried an aftermarket unit?



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06 H3
06-08-2016, 02:14 PM
Weird...never added a cooler but I'm running a different setup with the SAS

humvee
06-08-2016, 02:16 PM
You have the nissan box right?


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4speedfunk
06-08-2016, 05:43 PM
BTW...I got a set of stock H3 power-steering hoses, and they have the cooler. Pipe-up if you want it. It did NOT come from an Alpha, and I have seen several 5-cyl. models with the PS cooler on them.

humvee
06-08-2016, 05:53 PM
BTW...I got a set of stock H3 power-steering hoses, and they have the cooler. Pipe-up if you want it.

Thanks! appreciate it. Sam's got some aftermarket units lying around, he uses them on JKs.
I think South African models didn't get them, I hope its the pipe that burst and not the pump, these things cost around $500 here.

CaseyS
06-08-2016, 09:11 PM
This is my new power steering line next to my old one. I had a new hose crimped on the old stub that lasted for a year then blew off twice in two months. This is a standard hydraulic fitting crimped to the hose and a compression ferrule swaged to the line. No problems since. BTW I have the same end fittings and just a different length hose.

Also no cooler here. Where is the factory one located?

http://i1330.photobucket.com/albums/w566/4BTHummer/Misc/IMG_20150320_150330886_zpsyz4vtbvz.jpg (http://s1330.photobucket.com/user/4BTHummer/media/Misc/IMG_20150320_150330886_zpsyz4vtbvz.jpg.html)

humvee
06-09-2016, 02:47 AM
Looks stock.. Factory cooler is meant to be below the pump, near the oil pan mounted somewhere.


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humvee
06-09-2016, 12:53 PM
So we fixed the vacuum solenoid pipe, and I'm still getting smoke from the dipstick pipe.

What I do know is that the engine was clean when I got it, no issues with oil whatsoever.
I'm still getting the oil warning on the ODO, comes and goes, especially when I'm pulling up to park at an incline.

Does anyone have any ideas on what could cause this? One mechanic said it could be because we deleted the heater hose. Sam and I don't agree.

Maybe sea foaming the oil chamber? The motor was lying around for 4 months, sand storms and whatnot.

Mr_Rich
06-09-2016, 03:11 PM
There is an adapter just above the filter on the block that can be tapped for an oil pressure gauge. I would want to know what the actual oil pressure at idle would be before chasing your tail with other fixes. That adapter is used on Corvettes for an engine cooler IIRC. Good luck!

humvee
06-09-2016, 05:53 PM
There is an adapter just above the filter on the block that can be tapped for an oil pressure gauge. I would want to know what the actual oil pressure at idle would be before chasing your tail with other fixes. That adapter is used on Corvettes for an engine cooler IIRC. Good luck!

Thanks Rich, will do that first thing Saturday when the shop opens.
I'm very alarmed at the fact that I've been testing the truck with this oil pressure issue looming. I was doing some reading and feel I might have already damaged the engine.

Know what reading is considered optimal?

CaseyS
06-09-2016, 10:29 PM
Simple question. I know you need the alpha specific oil pan but what about the pickup? Is it the same. Is there a tube bolted to the block that can possibly leak. Is it possible anything got bumped on the suction side when the pan was off?

humvee
06-10-2016, 03:52 AM
Is it possible anything got bumped on the suction side when the pan was off?

We did design our own oil pick-up strainer. I think you got it once again, this should be where my problem lies.
Will check it out asap.
http://i.imgur.com/fRalvvy.jpg

CaseyS
06-10-2016, 10:03 AM
Check the welds and check that a gasket was installed and the bolts are tight at the pickup. I would blue locktite those bolts too for piece of mind.

By fab guy used acetone to test for leaks. Make a blank flange and bolt it to the pickup end and fill it up like you have it sitting now and let it sit for a while and make sure there are no pinholes. Also make sure the strainer is not too close to the bottom of the pan where it may be vortexing trying to get oil in. Looks like the only intake is at the bottom which is where it would be facing the flat oil pan bottom.

Cheap part if it were readily available there for you.
http://www.directgm.com/oe-gm/12608593?origin=pla&gclid=Cj0KEQjwyum6BRDQ-9jU4PSVxf8BEiQAu1AHqmjWDNxwMw9BZ5_UMgsWOuLX0g_z7cB rcKzvmFY-S7kaArrN8P8HAQ

humvee
06-10-2016, 10:14 AM
Check the welds and check that a gasket was installed and the bolts are tight at the pickup. I would blue locktite those bolts too for piece of mind.
Cheap part if it were readily available there for you.


Will follow these steps. I think ill park the 3 till the part arrives. Ordered it last night just to be safe.

If it were available here, it wouldn't cost under $130 btw

Mr_Rich
06-10-2016, 12:59 PM
When I was bolting up my engine (on my car) all the books I read mentioned replacing the O-ring gasket on the pickup tube with a new one. Seems like such a simple thing but I follow those recommendations.

CaseyS
06-10-2016, 01:41 PM
This link says the windage trays and pickup tube are specific to each pan design. One pic about 2/3 of the way down clearly shows a blue oring on the pickup tube. I would order that part as well. If you welded on the tube, did the o-ring get removed? If it didn't, did it get heat damage?

http://www.lsenginediy.com/ls-swaps-oil-pan-guide/

humvee
06-10-2016, 08:19 PM
This link says the windage trays and pickup tube are specific to each pan design.

I couldn't find the windage tray for the H3 online.
http://i.imgur.com/WWDJeC8.png
Found an article that says this is what I need for the H3: 12611129. But I cant verify that on GM parts websites. All point to the LS3.



all the books I read mentioned replacing the O-ring gasket on the pickup tube with a new one.

Thanks, ordered, and a new gasket for the pan just in case mine comes out damaged.

A lot of the reviews said that this solved their oil pressure problems. I hope this also means an end to the white smoke.

humvee
06-10-2016, 08:25 PM
So while we wait for these parts. I need to address another issue.

When I shift from N to D, theres a 1.5 second delay before the gear engages and I can drive.
N to Reverse is very responsive.

To recap:
I upgraded the sun shell, installed a new band and corvette servo.
New input drum, and replaced the stator shaft with an alpha one that fits in the TC.

I noticed the mechanic did not use petroleum jelly before plugging in the new servo.

Anyone had this problem before? Valve body possibly?

Mr_Rich
06-11-2016, 05:55 AM
http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=21093&stc=1http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=21094&stc=1http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=21095&stc=1Windage tray pics from my Firebird build. The one you would probably need would be full length (10 bolts) vs. the shortened one (8 bolts) used with F-bodies to clear the K-frame.

humvee
06-11-2016, 08:58 AM
Thanks Rich. Looking at older pictures, I do have the windage tray up there. Amrg's crate LS3 came with its own tray so I retained his old one.
http://i.imgur.com/koQWBxo.jpg

humvee
06-11-2016, 09:06 AM
Need to update the list. Get some Oil Pan parts action going

humvee
06-12-2016, 07:08 PM
They went against my instructions and removed the pan before the pickup arrived. They got the O-seal from the dealer.

They said there was no leak past the old seal. So that couldn't possibly be the problem.
http://i.imgur.com/A8lJgQY.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/VVU3r5p.jpg
The new (red) seal seems to be a thicker. I was at work today so these are images that they have sent.

The custom pickup tube inlet sits 1 inch above the bottom of the pan. They said the old one measures exactly the same. I don't know how they could've gotten that.
They did not check oil pressure like I asked.

humvee
06-14-2016, 05:08 PM
No luck with the new seal as far the smoke is concerned. Then again they confirmed the old seal wasn't leaking.
Oil light didn't come on when I tested it today though, but that could come back with time.

Parked it, waiting for the OEM pickup tube. They'll have to redo all the work to give me peace of mind that this isn't the cause of my problems.

If this fails, I'm looking at the following in this order:

- The vacuum receiver on top of the intake manifold (broken and "fixed")
- value cover.
- Head Gasket leak.

Thoughts?

CaseyS
06-14-2016, 11:34 PM
Smoking generally indicates oil getting into the combustion chambers. Two most common ways are piston rings or valve seals. I would not think head gasket at this point.

Silly question, did you see the engine run before the conversion and if not did it come from a reliable source? In short are you sure this is a new problem and not an existing one?

Check the oil pressure and if its good run it for a bit and check the oil consumption. Burning oil shouldn't hurt the engine anymore if it has good oil pressure.

humvee
06-15-2016, 06:16 AM
You are correct.. I'm just shooting in the dark son.

The motor was on amrg's hummer before he put in the LS3. It was in perfect running condition, with around 90k miles on the ODO.

They promised to check the oil pressure today. What reading am I hoping for here?

650Hawk
06-15-2016, 01:07 PM
Smoking generally indicates oil getting into the combustion chambers. Two most common ways are piston rings or valve seals. I would not think head gasket at this point.
Could be wrong, but I don't think smoke from the dipstick pipe could be from oil in the combustion chamber; the dipstick pipe is in the bottom end (crankcase), not the top end.

CaseyS
06-15-2016, 02:59 PM
Ahh, are we smoking out the tailpipe or just from the dipstick vent? I assumed it was from the tailpipe.

Smoke from the dipstick is likely caused by crankcase pressure which would point to either the PCV system or blowby.

humvee
06-16-2016, 04:43 AM
Just the dipstick. I think the oil pressure light and smoke are two different issues.

- O-ring seal solves the oil light (hopefully)
- PVC issue solves the dipstick smoke

Blow-by would mean the engine seals are shot due to running hot, not high mileage as it only got 90k miles on it?
It averages around 95 - 115 degrees C.
I'd have to rebuild, and that would be an issue.


My friend's YJ runs at 70 C, if his gauge reading is accurate, which he says it is.

JPaul
06-16-2016, 11:49 AM
70C?? If that is true then he is running his engine FAR too cold. That's only 158F, so unless he's not only running a 160F (71C) thermostat (Which I don't know if they make those for the YJ's) but his radiator is oversized and fan clutch is stuck on and the thermostat is stuck open, and it's probably 50F (10C) out as well. Otherwise the heat saturation in the radiator should keep it warmer than that in the temperatures you guys are at over there, if his fan is working properly and the radiator stock sized, even with a stuck open thermostat.

Really, that is just way too cold. Your temps (203F to 239F/95C to 115C) are about what I would expect for a modern engine in a hot environment. I think those are OK, though that upper limit is a littler higher than I would want, but it's not unexpected given your conditions and vehicle. If he's reading 70C either his cooling system is screwed up, or his gauge is broken. From what I've found the YJ should be running around 210F (about 99C).

GreatDaneHummer
06-16-2016, 03:51 PM
Is this amount of issues normal for an engine swap? There are companies like Mash motors that do this stuff all the time and bang out a beautiful oem looking finished product in 2-3 weeks...? I would think it should be rather mild difficulty with the H3 Alpha components being available? What am I missing here?

JPaul
06-16-2016, 04:27 PM
Is this amount of issues normal for an engine swap? There are companies like Mash motors that do this stuff all the time and bang out a beautiful oem looking finished product in 2-3 weeks...? I would think it should be rather mild difficulty with the H3 Alpha components being available? What am I missing here?

Using a used engine without at least rebuilding it instead of a crate motor (or a good rebuild), relying on other people who apparently have little idea as to what they are doing to do the work for you, being on the other side of the world from where the H3's were mainly sold and built, and just general bad luck.

That's my take on it anyway.

humvee
06-16-2016, 04:44 PM
Spot on, Mash probably has some experienced mechanical engineers who have done dozens of rebuilds. That kind of experience can help you see a few steps ahead, big no no's.

Surely they wouldn't make mistakes like breaking the vacuum pipe off the intake manifold.

But thats all we got.


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CaseyS
06-16-2016, 09:30 PM
Is this amount of issues normal for an engine swap? There are companies like Mash motors that do this stuff all the time and bang out a beautiful oem looking finished product in 2-3 weeks...? I would think it should be rather mild difficulty with the H3 Alpha components being available? What am I missing here?

Swaps are not easy. Period. The devil is always in the details.

Once you have done one swap, if you were to do a second one EXACTLY the same, you can probably cut your hours in half. The subsequent ones after that you probably know where all the traps are and can plan accordingly. That's where the big shops can leverage the efficiency.

This is what, only the second diy v8 swap, and both guys have taken slightly different paths. So its partly an r&d project as much as it is straightforward mechanic work. Some of the details are worked out like the motor mounts and wiring harness, but others like trans combos are still building the group knowledge base.

If I were to do another 4bt build, I think I have good enough notes and drawings I think I could be fairly efficient at it and avoid a lot of the trial and error I went through on this one.

4speedfunk
06-17-2016, 08:12 AM
So true. I have done enough SAS's now that I know exactly what works and what doesn't. Anytime you tackle mods like this, the first one is always slow, costly, and frustrating. But hang in there and be persistent...you'll get it done eventually. Then after you're done, really good mechanics will end up asking themselves..."If I had to do it again...what would I do different?" An honest, self-assessment of your own work, is critical. This is the first sign of a great mechanic, not content to settle for "good enough"...and not blinded by his own ego.

Like I said in another post...you can learn a lot of things but, giving a $hit must be bred into who you are. Guys that care, are often frustrated with everyone around them for their lack of detail. They are pretty much disgusted with anything less than perfection, and it usually spills over into other aspects of their lives. This makes day-to-day life sometimes hard to deal with, as well as interaction with other people (wives, kids, etc.). Some of the best mechanics are way out there, on the fringes of sanity. I meet guys like this from time to time, and sometime think to myself "what a freak!"...until I get to know them, and see what they can do. Then you sort of understand why they are that way.

Hunner
06-21-2016, 08:49 AM
Getting philosophical now are we? but true sayins...........I think I are one. (we talk that way because we can)

Time to go sailing/cruising, you will meet people that have gotten to where they are because of that philosophy.

humvee
06-21-2016, 10:33 AM
Like I said in another post...you can learn a lot of things but, giving a $hit must be bred into who you are. Guys that care, are often frustrated with everyone around them for their lack of detail.

Thanks, it is true. Pulling my truck out of there as soon as Im back. They did well to install and fabricate what they did. Now we need someone with GM engine experience to sort out the bugs.


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humvee
07-05-2016, 12:20 PM
All done, apart from the pcv and some pcm o2 related code deletes, I can finally call my swap a success.

Thank you all for the invaluable information you provided.
Everyone that contributed, Casey and Chris especially, I owe you.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160705/739f9b05daab8548f42db59bfd490bec.jpg


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06 H3
07-05-2016, 01:48 PM
Glad to here it! I know I did not contribute much on the thread but humvee and I talked a lot about the swap via phone and text. If anyone ever needs help you can see my thread or talk to me and next time I'll try to contribute more on their thread

CaseyS
07-06-2016, 10:00 AM
On paper, this should be very straight forward. But I need to be careful.

From post #1 in this thread. :giggle:

Congrats. Although it is never truly finished. Always something else to tweak or upgrade.

People think that sourcing the engine, getting the mounts and dropping it in the bay is the hard part. In reality, that's only a small portion of the project. The time (and money) killer is in all the small detail things that you either need to source or build yourself to get things to work. $10 of hardware, $50 of brackets, $75 of hose, wait for the mail order, get online to find a part or figure out how something works, tracing down bugs...it all adds up over time. It takes a certain level of patience to work through and complete a major project like this.

Good work and you're welcome for the help.

humvee
07-09-2016, 06:30 AM
You couldn't have said it soon enough. New list of issues:

- Fuel lines were not extended and are resting on the exhaust manifold, burning out.

- Gear selector lever is overstretched and breaking apart. The one that comes with the Alpha is different, comes in 2 parts and has different mounting accessories on the tranny.

- I hear a terrible knocking from the lower end of the motor, consistent with the speed of the rpm. Hoping its dirt and Seafoam will sort this out today. If not I'm in for a ride.

- New harness was routed wrong, in contact with the exhaust in two places.

- driver side manifold is resting on the body mount bracket, and causing vibration.

- PCV receiver on the intake manifold is still not fixed, and smoke is coming out of the oil dipstick.


Might still be a while away from completing this conversion safely.

JPaul
07-09-2016, 08:30 PM
I thought the Alpha used the same transmission as the I-5's, why would the selector be any different between the two?

I hope you didn't actually pay anyone to do this swap, they've done a terrible job. If you did pay them I hope they are covering all of the costs with fixing these blunders. And I'm sorry to say but I highly doubt SeaFoam is going to fix any kind of knocking you're hearing from the bottom end. That's almost definitely going to be a bad bearing which means a tear down and rebuild. Which means pulling the motor back out. Which sucks big time after all of this. And now that I know you have what sounds like rod knock, I'm betting it isn't really the PCV valve that is causing the smoke to come from the oil dipstick tube... :gaah:

humvee
07-10-2016, 05:21 AM
We had a work agreement between our two businesses, but regardless he was the biggest beneficiary.

The selector is different primarily because in the alpha, it has to clear the driver-side down pipe (I believe).

knocking noise went away after i reset the codes and reflashed. My knowledge tells me that should be a coincidence.

Seafoam done, used approx 1/6th of the can, very little white smoke came out the back. Was expecting a lot more drama, but I'm happy.

Theres a leak that I can't properly see coming from where the transfer case meets the tranny. Need to sort that out too.


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humvee
07-10-2016, 05:21 AM
II'm betting it isn't really the PCV valve that is causing the smoke to come from the oil dipstick tube... :gaah:

What do you think it is?
Getting ready to seafoam the crankcase.


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JPaul
07-10-2016, 09:36 AM
I'm surprised resetting the codes and reflashing got lower end knocking to go away. I could understand if it was pinging, but lower end knocking? Seems very odd. Did you rebuild the motor before you installed it? If not you might want to drop the oil pan and verify the bearings are all still nice and tight and that none of the rods are loose.

If you were getting lower end knock and smoke coming from your oil then you might be cooking your oil somehow. Unless you've gotten water in your oil or have a ton of blow by past the rings, I really don't think you should be seeing much vapor coming from the oil pan. If you think it really is the PCV then it could be a lot of blow by, you could try removing the valve and just hooking the hose directly so that it pulls a vacuum.

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humvee
09-04-2016, 01:10 AM
I'm surprised resetting the codes and reflashing got lower end knocking to go away.

Paul, appreciate your input. I actually replied to this before I flew away on work but it didn't seem to go through.
It's defined a coincidence, I also seafoamed and did a number of other things, so I don't know who the real hero is there.

That said, the truck has been in and out of the garage since then, every time I fix a leak, another shows up. The most recent leak seems to be the power steering fluid.

Got the AC fixed, turns out it was just that I only installed one of the two pusher fans up front. When I installed the other one, works like a charm.

I'm still getting smoke from my oil dipstick and filler cap. Mechanic said he did a leak-down test while I was away and found that my motor is no good, told me pcv checks out. I'm having a tough time trusting him, he struggled to give me test result numbers. He might be right, no other mechanic has been able to diagnose this.

I really need to get this issue settled.


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humvee
09-19-2016, 03:19 AM
Hummer went back in for that engine oil leak. We've changed the main seal twice now with no luck.

Something else is up. Can it be that the engine is mounted a tad bit too forward, and the bolts near the seal are at their limit, causing a tiny gap under engine acceleration strain?

Shooting in the dark, fishing for theories.


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4speedfunk
09-19-2016, 03:30 AM
Smoke coming from the dipstick tube, and leaking seals points to a crankcase pressure issue. I would triple-check the PCV system again.

humvee
09-19-2016, 02:52 PM
Thank you, will double check. I feel at this point the seal would be shot because of all the leaking. There is no escaping another tranny drop.


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humvee
07-02-2018, 07:21 AM
Its been a while and thought Iíd update the build. My 3 swap was plagued with problems and now Iím in the process of redoing everything that was done poorly before.

Previous mechanic had broken the oil dip tube, and welded this to make it work. They found that he had used glue to secure it, all burnt up and was causing a leak.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180702/ba320988776462180b1123676a4bd974.jpg

With the rebuilt tranny in place, I decided to go with all new bower cooler lines, separated the whole distance to and from the cooler.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180702/bec8c3c21ff6bc115f48d2ab5c662b77.jpg

This engine mount adapter has 6k miles on it. Previous mechanic didnít trim properly and therefore the driver side exhaust manifold was resting on it. Motor wouldnít articulate when revved, fixed.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180702/200f00668148c60a0d109921ed262424.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180702/fded0e52f4373cde41e14ccd5d96eb63.jpg

Proper fuel lines and fittings, routed them away from the exhaust manifold where they were resting previously.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180702/e54532eac910e8154471c3d287138cd1.heic

Installed oem exhaust manifolds that point in the correct direction, reworked the custom downpipes and deleted the cats.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180702/36e7d1286df84321a5839365f8904ec5.jpg

Redtop battery installed with some trimming to the battery housing lid.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180702/7dd6511cc03f20239e92348dcaa129fb.jpg

Used the cooler that came with the tranny as a power steering oil cooler.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180702/7dc22633d443857fce0a5101088dd54e.jpg



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Mr_Rich
07-03-2018, 03:32 PM
A lot of "iffy" work there. One thing I learned when swapping an LS engine and removing the oil pan is that the engine loses prime. New O-rings are required on the pickup tube and then you pump two quarts of oil through the oil galley access port on the driver's side of the block. Service manual info. When I worked on my LS project I bought the $200 priming tool. Cheap investment for a $7K engine. I'm wondering if your engine was started bypassing the oil priming procedure. CaseyS remarked that the real work is all the detail and nick-and-dime stuff on these projects. Isn't that the truth? Dropping an engine into the bay is the easy part.

humvee
07-04-2018, 08:45 AM
We put in the new o ring, but Im pretty sure they just put in the oil from the top filler.

Truck has been started & driven since, what do you think the damage is?

I sent it back because there still is a motor oil leak near the rear crank seal. This issue has spanned the entire build and Iím still unable to fix it. Replaced that seal 4 times to date.


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5gn-h3t
07-04-2018, 09:54 AM
As others have said, sounds like a crankcase pressure issue. Excess pressure would cause oil leaks, seal failures, and some of the other problems you have mentioned. Re-check the PCV system and perform a leak down test.

Mr_Rich
07-04-2018, 12:48 PM
We put in the new o ring, but Im pretty sure they just put in the oil from the top filler.

Truck has been started & driven since, what do you think the damage is?



I sent it back because there still is a motor oil leak near the rear crank seal. This issue has spanned the entire build and I’m still unable to fix it. Replaced that seal 4 times to date.

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What it would mean is that there wasn't immediate oil pressure when the engine was started and it ran with dry bearings until the oil circulated. I wish the H3/ H3T's had an oil pressure gauge and not an idiot light. When I did the swap in my car I unplugged the coil pack connections and turned the engine over and watched the gauge. I saw that needle climb and knew I was ready to hook everything up. No problem after that. As for the seal there is a procedure that involves steps including the installation of the oil pan and rear cover. Could be shortcuts are the problem. There are a lot of little tricks with these LS engines that were never issues with small block Chevy engines.

speedy
07-04-2018, 01:46 PM
There are a lot of little tricks with these LS engines that were never issues with small block Chevy engines.


I sent it back because there still is a motor oil leak near the rear crank seal. This issue has spanned the entire build and Iím still unable to fix it. Replaced that seal 4 times to date.

Are they reusing the flex plate bolts? They require thread sealant. Oil can leak past the threads mimicking a seal leak.
Good luck i despise oil leaks

Mr_Rich
07-04-2018, 03:18 PM
Are they reusing the flex plate bolts? They require thread sealant. Oil can leak past the threads mimicking a seal leak.
Good luck i despise oil leaks

You sure about that? I'm positive both the end of the crank and the torque converter have blind holes which would not require anything except maybe threadlocker. I checked the end of the crank on my LS; blind holes, not through.

speedy
07-04-2018, 05:43 PM
Yes
www.autoserviceprofessional.com/article/94984/engine-sealing-tips-how-to-avoid-problems-from-annoying-leaks-to-devastating-dam (http://www.autoserviceprofessional.com/article/94984/engine-sealing-tips-how-to-avoid-problems-from-annoying-leaks-to-devastating-dam)
There's plenty of mention on the LS boards if you search

I never mentioned anything about torque converters:sigh:

Maybe this is part of the problem

TSB 05-06-01-034J: Engine Oil (http://i.viglink.com/?key=4653f070049b3454e9a6c7898794199a&insertId=dcfa5b26ea5065056ac0fa4dbcfe483b&type=CD&mid=undefined&exp=60%3ACI1C55A%3A20&libId=jj7n9m1c010006ai000DAb5x9ob4g&loc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.355nation.net%2Fforum%2Fserv ice-bulletins%2F96793-service-bulletin-05-06-01-034j-engine-oil-leak-rear-cover-assembly-area.html&v=1&out=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fs%2Fref%3Dnb_sb _noss%3Furl%3Dsearch-alias%253Dautomotive%26field-keywords%3Doil&ref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F&title=Service%20Bulletin%3A%2005-06-01-034J%3A%20Engine%20Oil%20Leak%20at%20Rear%20Cover% 20Assembly%20Area%20-%20Chevrolet%20Colorado%20%26%20GMC%20Canyon%20For um&txt=%3Cspan%3EOil%3C%2Fspan%3E) Leak at Rear Cover Assembly Area
(Engine Block Porosity RTV Repair Procedure) - (Nov 12, 2009)

humvee
07-04-2018, 05:49 PM
Thanks guys, Iíll spend some time with the head mechanic and discuss process.
Iíll ask for a leak down test and take it from there.


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Mr_Rich
07-04-2018, 08:15 PM
Yes
www.autoserviceprofessional.com/article/94984/engine-sealing-tips-how-to-avoid-problems-from-annoying-leaks-to-devastating-dam (http://www.autoserviceprofessional.com/article/94984/engine-sealing-tips-how-to-avoid-problems-from-annoying-leaks-to-devastating-dam)
There's plenty of mention on the LS boards if you search

I never mentioned anything about torque converters:sigh:

Maybe this is part of the problem

TSB 05-06-01-034J: Engine Oil (http://i.viglink.com/?key=4653f070049b3454e9a6c7898794199a&insertId=dcfa5b26ea5065056ac0fa4dbcfe483b&type=CD&mid=undefined&exp=60%3ACI1C55A%3A20&libId=jj7n9m1c010006ai000DAb5x9ob4g&loc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.355nation.net%2Fforum%2Fserv ice-bulletins%2F96793-service-bulletin-05-06-01-034j-engine-oil-leak-rear-cover-assembly-area.html&v=1&out=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fs%2Fref%3Dnb_sb _noss%3Furl%3Dsearch-alias%253Dautomotive%26field-keywords%3Doil&ref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F&title=Service%20Bulletin%3A%2005-06-01-034J%3A%20Engine%20Oil%20Leak%20at%20Rear%20Cover% 20Assembly%20Area%20-%20Chevrolet%20Colorado%20%26%20GMC%20Canyon%20For um&txt=%3Cspan%3EOil%3C%2Fspan%3E) Leak at Rear Cover Assembly Area
(Engine Block Porosity RTV Repair Procedure) - (Nov 12, 2009)



You said "flex plate bolts". To me that means the plate that connects the torque converter to the end of the crank. Now are you calling the cover on the back part of the LS engine a "flex plate"? Then I was confused...

That TSB is interesting.

JPaul
07-05-2018, 02:30 AM
I can confirm the bolt holes for the flex plate to crank bolts are through holes and not blind, I just had my engine all apart for the rebuild. I made sure to use locktite on the threads when I put the new bolts in (used ARP bolts) so that seals them up as well. If they were reused it's entirely possible they could be leaking oil past.

There is also that TSB where the rear cover plate could not be sealing correctly due to porosity in the block which I think is what speedy linked)

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Mr_Rich
07-05-2018, 04:13 AM
I can confirm the bolt holes for the flex plate to crank bolts are through holes and not blind, I just had my engine all apart for the rebuild. I made sure to use locktite on the threads when I put the new bolts in (used ARP bolts) so that seals them up as well. If they were reused it's entirely possible they could be leaking oil past.

There is also that TSB where the rear cover plate could not be sealing correctly due to porosity in the block which I think is what speedy linked)

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It looks like it's a detail I'm wised up on. Since I had a manual trans and wasn't dealing with a flexplate I never had an issue. After further research it looks the car cranks have through holes and the truck cranks have a wider sealing area and possibly they are the cranks with blind holes although I couldn't say for sure either.

JPaul
07-05-2018, 08:43 AM
Makes sense, I think the H3's and other lighter trucks use the car blocks vs standard pickups/vans that use truck blocks. Seems the aluminum 5.3 we use is a car block with a truck intake, cam, and accessories. I noticed when buying the ARP bolts for the flexplate to torque converter the ones I bought were for cars using the 4l60e while there was another set for trucks using the 4l60e, the main difference being the cars only use 3 bolts while the trucks use 6.

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speedy
07-05-2018, 12:47 PM
Again no mention of torque converters or converter bolts:banghead:


Now are you calling the cover on the back part of the LS engine a "flex plate"? Then I was confused... "Seriously" :giggle:


With that being said i'm done here. I'm not going to split hairs with you and muddy up someone else thread with trivial B.S.

Humvee good luck with your oil leak.

humvee
07-05-2018, 12:48 PM
Thanks, I sent this through to him.
He came back earlier and said that its the Valve cover gasket and deactivation solenoid gasket causing the oil leak.

This is a visual confirmation without unbolting any of the parts.


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humvee
07-09-2018, 07:54 AM
I need to buy the gasket for the Cylinder Deactivation Solenoid.
Haven't been able to find the gasket set separately for the H3, they sell them separately for the Yukon, Sierra, Silverado and Escalade.

Anyone here ever came across it?


23902

JPaul
07-09-2018, 01:59 PM
The covers are the same for all GM Gen IV 5.3's, it's not model dependant. The only difference is if you have AFM/DOD or not. None of the H3's came with AFM/DOD so they use that gasket set. Any engine that has the AFM/DOD will use the gaskets like the one you have pictured above.

humvee
07-09-2018, 02:04 PM
The only difference is if you have AFM/DOD or not. None of the H3's came with AFM/DOD

Thanks, what do you think of this? Its on rock auto for the Colorado but not the H3. Amrg found it.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180709/5f827dba1169efe20c5f10ec7ffefefb.png


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JPaul
07-09-2018, 03:20 PM
Yep, that's the one. You have the non-AFM/DOD valley cover, right? There should also be 8 1" diameter or so circle shaped gaskets that fit into the underside of the cover to block off the oil bosses, unless it's a gen 3 block which won't have them. You don't really want to re-use them as any leaking will result in low oil pressure. It leaks internally though at least so you won't lose oil. Some guys will tap the bosses for 1/8" NPT plugs or just straight 1/4" set screws and block them off that way as well to be sure they won't leak. But you really only need to do that if you're running higher than normal oil pressure and/or racing.

JPaul
07-09-2018, 03:23 PM
This is the right set from felpro: http://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part-detail.aspx?brandId=FL&pNum=MS%2096169&partType=Intake%20Manifold%20Gasket%20Set

I found that when I ordered my head gasket set I had to find the right one by searching for a 2010 H3, for some reason the 2008 and I think 2009 H3's tend to come up with sets for the Gen 3 engines, but ours is a Gen 4 and uses several different gaskets, one of which is the valley cover.

humvee
07-10-2018, 02:09 AM
Thank you! Yes I have the gen IV. This is very helpful.


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